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KiwiRS4T

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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. KiwiRS4T
    No you're better off in RWD but fix it asap
  2. KiwiRS4T
    They are between $200 and $300 new - I bought one a few years ago.
  3. KiwiRS4T
    Go to the Stagea section - heaps of advice from M35 owners.
  4. KiwiRS4T
    Didn't read down as far as you did - looks like a fake - definitely no use for flexy system
  5. KiwiRS4T
    US$148 (no knowledge of its quality): http://www.pointaengineering.com/?gclid=CNawipbKkqsCFWdLpgodMSvhvw
  6. KiwiRS4T
    Several Japanese makers do Stagea specific systems. e.g. http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=16327
  7. KiwiRS4T
    Your injectors will make somewhere between 300 -330kw - you can easily upgrade them later if you want more power (although you will have to pay for another tune) but if you want nearer 400kw 550s would do or go for ID1000s to future proof your build.
  8. KiwiRS4T
    Better still get a pair of 4.1 GTR diffs - good way to get a mechanical LSD (in fact just the 4.1 rear diff may be close enough for the attessa). Pull the front driveshaft AND pull the awd fuse in the meantime
  9. KiwiRS4T
    If you pay to get your box fixed ask the builders what they think about Redline heavy weight shockproof. Redline don't recommend it for gearboxes ( they do suggest the light weight shockproof for worn boxes) i don't know why people do on these forums -I guess its akin to putting sawdust in - it quietens things down for a while but stuffs your box.
  10. KiwiRS4T
    The very simplest way is to borrow a known good one to try.
  11. KiwiRS4T
    Can't wait to lose my roof rails - looks much cleaner.
  12. KiwiRS4T
    True but in combination with other mufflers/resonators etc may still contribute to exhaust restriction. I have a Venom 100 cell metal cat (because I plan to leave it in permanently - some take their cat out once they have their wof/ low volume certificate etc).
  13. KiwiRS4T
    If you are going to use Redline shockproof in your gearbox use only the lightweight version. If you have a viscous diff 75W 140 but if you have a mechanical lsd you must use a special lsd oil such as motul 75W 140 for lsd.
  14. KiwiRS4T
    My RB30/25 has just been fired up and makes 225awkw on a hub dyno at 9 psi. A few things to tidy up and will go back to the tuner to up boost to 18psi and hopefuly exceed 300awkw. (Stock head with VCT Gt3540 with Sinco high rise manifold (like 6boost) ffp with stock throttle body stock fpr Link ecu).Dropping the exhaust may be interesting - have you got a functioning or possibly collapsed cat converter?
  15. KiwiRS4T
    Gidday ! No pics for me??? Try photobucket or similar!
  16. KiwiRS4T
    Have you tried Nissan?
  17. KiwiRS4T
    Blocked fuel filter(s) dying fuel pump?
  18. KiwiRS4T
    Maybe but to be on the safe side I would still drain 2L then turn it off, put 2 back down the dipstick ...turn it on and drain another 2 replace and drain the last litre and replace.
  19. KiwiRS4T
    Dunno but a real Garrett 3076 is only about $2000 - presumably this kit contains a knock-off.
  20. KiwiRS4T
    I would have thought R33 GTR one: 48520-23u25(4wd) other stagea ones are: 48520-0cu25(2wd) 48520-15u25(4wd) 48520-23u25(4wd)
  21. KiwiRS4T
    Attessa reservoir is in the boot right-hand side - open the door and fill while running. If it has gone out of sight the system needs bleeding (one nipple behind the transfer case the other on top of the diff ...not on the diff itself but on the attessa pump). Use high quality (I use synthetic) atf fluid.
  22. KiwiRS4T
    Injectors anything 500 or over should be fine although having said that ID1000s are very popular and leave room to grow! Fuel pump Bosch 044 in your tank will handle 300kw.
  23. KiwiRS4T
    Here's mine:
  24. KiwiRS4T
    Similar to my 30/25 with .63 3540 - just had Link installed and fired up for the first time 300hp (225awkw @ 8 -9 psi) - a few things to tidy up and then proper tune at 18psi in about 3 weeks or so.
  25. KiwiRS4T
    Or for a little more get a Link/Vipec
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