KiwiRS4T

You'll need more than 2 bottles. If you drain the sump you will get only a fraction of the fluid. Ill just copy from my Stagea post: Changing the atf is not a simple task but you can do it yourself. Dropping the sump on the auto box will only yield around 1 or 2 litres but at least then you can clean the fiter (its steel) and pan and then put it back together. then take off a hose from the transmssion oil cooler and put it in a 2L plastic bottle and run the engine until you have collected a couple of litres. Stop the engine and pour 2L of new atf down the dipstick (for the auto trans ) and repeat til the oil comes out clean. Could take 10 to 12 Litres

The best place is on the turbo housing - flow does matter for boost control.

Bit hard on the poor guy! Yes mate 200 is too low - the turbo should be good for 250 - 260rwkw with a Z32 afm and bigger injectors if all else is in good nick and the intercooler is rated for the job.

Here's some brand new injectors at a good price: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/fuel-systems/auction-402336163.htm

On the S2 it is supposed to be not necessary to drop the front drive shaft - I only mentioned it in case you couldn't get the other way to work. The O2 sensor should be on the front (exhaust) pipe just below the turbo. There is a bracket to hold the wiring and if you follow the wiring about 150mm back from the top of the sensor you should find a plastic plug. Just disconnect it - no harm will come to your engine -and see if it makes any difference. If it does there is a "how to replace" in the DIY section above and you can get replacements from Kudos - link in the DIY sticky.

Did you succeed with the 2wd trick? If not its just 4 bolts to drop the front driveshaft and pull the fuse. If you are really keen you can pull the lining out of the left rear of the boot. The Atessa computer sits between the small hatch in the side and the lh strut tower and has a blinking light to display fault codes. I don't know why Nissan installed it so you can't read the fault codes - in the Skylines its in the boot under the parcel shelf where you can see it. Did you try disconnecting the O2 sensor? Just pull the plug off. Maybe there is cr*p in the sock on the fuel pump. Either you can pull it out and have a look or if you have access to a workshop they should be able to test fuel flow with a meter.

How much is it? I got mine brand new from GCG for $1850 with SAU discount. I believe the Hypergear rebuilds are a lot cheaper for a similar power output.

You don't want the cheapest you need the best.

There are people who will do that but don't even think of it. You need it tuned in the car for your car.

I had a GCG highflow on my S1 Stagea making 240awkw and it went really well. With a better FMIC and tune it would have made 250 - 260awkw which is really quite fast. It was only doing track days and wanting to do a little low level motorsport that has pushed me to looking for 330 or so kw and I have got the RB30 conversion and Gt3540 etc etc well over $10k probably nearer $15k for the extra power. So what I am saying is yes go for the GCG highflow - you will need a Z32afm and bigger injectors 450 - 550 and a good tune. Easy stock looking install and you will make good power early on.You should be able to keep the stock fuel reg and bov (or maybe replace the bov with a GTR one).

You are doing very well for the power level you have. The answer to your original question is to be found only on a dyno if you want to keep your engine in one piece. Your next mod should be an aftermarket computer - Link or Motec or whatever you can get tuned where you are.

Not really - you might find a slight increase in pedal travel. See how you like it and only change if you are not happy with it.

Here's a list of distributors:http://crcind.com.au/crc-distributors-products

Yep looks like an RS260 front. Does it handle OK? I guess if someone took the trouble to put Cusco coilovers hopefuly they put a cusco sway bar on the back as well. I have spacers at the front as well because the front track is smaller than the rear and 20mm spacers on the front seems to be about right and I can't afford to order new wheels with different offsets. Plenty of ideas on here about how to spend your money to make it go faster!

Why do you have to remove the check light? Can't you just reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery?

If you have the number Nissan can cut a new one from the code. Some locksmiths may be able to I don't know but the average key bar probably can't - they will need one to copy - should be possible if you can get the broken bit out.

Buy the S2 - rear light treatment looks much better.

= T67 ...400kw

Try an electrical supplies shop or a marine supplies shop - you are just looking for a spray on insulator.

Bit of a long story but my car has gone from the workshop to a tuner who has installed the G4 Link and is going to tune it tomorrow. He is a top tuner and has built a seven second R32 GTR but he was complaining that he was having to take his M35 Stagea to NZ's most famous GTR tuner because he has the software to crack the ecu but its all in Japanese. I will try to find out more and keep you informed but it could be good news for Kiwi V35 and M35 owners. Soichi used to work for Nissan and travels back to Japan regularly so I don't know how he came by the software and whether he will onsell it (maybe to someone like Toshi). Will let you know.

This is a S1 AU$60 posted - its in good condition - marks are just reflections:

In your position I would get a neo Stagea motor GTR box (if you're currently auto otherwise your manual box should be ok) and pull it down and do rings and bearings. Get a GTT ecu and loom and with a Nistune (or Link if you can afford it) and the right turbo etc it will make an easy 260 - 280 awkw. Here's one (ask in the Stagea section and you might find one nearer to you): http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/engines/auction-402062421.htm

Atessa awd computer is in the boot left hand side wall in front of the opening compartment but before the strut tower. Makes it pretty hard to read the codes!!!! Wasted spark for the RBs is history over here - new coils probably a better bet if you need them.

As above VL commodore or you can buy it with the afm. Lilcrash has a spare for you ^^^

As per the thread. Very few differences except of course you want a GTST or similar non awd gearbox and you may need to watch out for gearbox mounts and driveshaft.