boostn0199

Ye thats best way drop a stock 25 in get the car going then take your time build whatever you want. E85 good tune , change oil after every track day it will last ages, mines been going for 2.5years so far on e85 and a year on 98 beforethat.

Stock rb25 on e85 300-350kw as reliable as it gets, easiest cheapest option. Go the 30 if you want moretorque but personally i cant fault mystock 25 with 320 in my drift car.

If you can get a small vaccuum cleaner tip in the spark plug hole after you re tap it could clean up the swarf but i wouldnt rely on it.

Id like to see any smic not get heat soaked at those powers with consective power runs or working the car hard for several minutes. They might work for giving a single squirt every once in a while thats it.

Lol at copies, as if you even consider that espicially for something crucial like a fuel pump which youve just leRnt the hard way. If you can afford 500 go nismo its direct fit 10 min install but if you want to save abit go the 044 for 200 bux just have to muck around a little to make it fit in stock position.

You just put the wheel on , take out the air bag globe if its annoying and you can remove the air bag module to fully disable them.

Take starter solonoid off for the rhs top bolt, dump off for lhs top bolt, for the one right in the middle undo the gearbox mount and let the drop the box as much as you can then get a long ass extension peice get it onto the bolt and rattle gun it off.

Id probably be interested in a low mount one when they are done.

Nup mines plumped back.

Just abit of my finding for anyone interested during the cold this winter, car basically spent two months in the garage with being started once a week up to operating temp and when I went to drop the oil today before the next track day this is what I found. Oil had completly absored the e85 wasnt even oily anymore ended up like water. This is motul 4100 power, it was fine for 3 months in summer but winter guess its not up to the task for being stationary.

Hard to say without heAring it. Could be worn shock, do you get the noise when you push on the rear of the car yourself?

Neither iridium or platium just the copper ones. The one you want are ngk bcpr7es they are alredy gapped to 0.8 aswell.

Check your plugs on the missfire, which ones are they and what gap?

Just because the turbo works doesnt mean its good. If you had a dyno graph and compared it to its equivalent size in hypergear kando garett etc. youll see its performance is shit.

People have said the ASI ebay radiators have worked really well. If you can afford 500 i would recomend a koyo.

Yep its got HF start.

Just got a basic ebay one http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rossi-3-1-Inverter-Welder-TIG-Cuts-Welds-S06-/230786697998?pt=AU_Welding&hash=item35bbf58b0e#ht_2788wt_1044. Seems to work alright just only downside is its not AC so cant weld alluminium.

Check the timing and try bleeding it more with the heater and all. It takes ages to properly bleed the system doubt mechanic would have spent so long doing it.

Heres a couple I've got. Still pretty average at it but its all practice I guess.

Good work mAte, ive been in the same boAt got a small tig setup about a month ago and have been practising great skill to have.

Sounds like a master or slave issue but youve alredy tried that.

I would go the bcpr7es at 0.8 if 19 psi but if there old coils they could be getting tired.

Yep its a dog to do tried it then got through changing 20 and all of a sudden air spun the crank and dropped a valve so head came off to finish the job.

How much lock do you want? the first stage is rack spacers as you said you have, but have you trimmed down the lock stops to get the most out of them? By the time you get the most out of them your going to end up getting steering bind which if you want to get rid of youll need offset rack spacers or move the rack forward. The next step would be to get some knuckles modified for the r32 to gain even more lock. But yeah it would pay to get a allignment with correct settings then go from there.

I had the same thing when I installed the cams, went away after the tune, but in saying that it was also partly from a dying CAS.