boostn0199

When I did mine made about 14kw more on 98. Better midrange to.

I have heard alot of people say the nismo ones raise it but not sure about hardrace.

Just put gtr rear guards and front guards on your gtst if you want the wide look.

Yep seat belt buckle points at back seat if you dont have a harness bar, can use the standard front seatbelt hole on driver and passenger side and lastly youll just have to drill a hole into the gearbox tunnel and buy a backing plate with a nut welded on it for a few dollars.

Yeah Im going to change the mounts on the weekend and going to drop the oil to check if any metal syncro clips are in it then refill it up.

It still needs bleeding there hard to bleed. I keep bleeding it then let it cool down and check overflow bottle until level stablizes takes close to 10 times til fully bled so nothing to worry about, either keep topping it up til it stops losing or bleed it.

No need for it, I ended up putting a exhuast cam gear on mine when I did cams and I got the best results on the standard setting.

Wheres it leaking rack or the lines, eitherway easy job and shouldnt cost you more than 400 if you do work on your own for rack and bushes

Back when everyone mainly ran 98 300kw was considered a fast power that everyone wanted now with e85 in the picture 300kw now is like 200kw used to be its nothing special with most people at the power level now its 380 plus being considered fast.

6 hours including removing the box to is very good for a mechanic quote. Most would charge you prob double that labour time.

Anyone know where you can get a set of solid mounts for a r33 gtst?

Yeah I tried it straight line and its fine only on that corner. Im thinking might be worn gearbox mount and under cornering its moving around. Ill check fluid levels aswell.

At my last drift day i noticed a new problem with my box. Basically on one corner where I take a hairpin in 2nd and hold it at limiter for a while then quickly have to shift to 3rd sometimes it would not go in. At all other times its fine and goes in easy, clutch kicking in third and 4th no problem but just that one particular situation when I have to hard shift from riding limiter in 2nd to third sometimes is no go. Anyone got any suggestions as to what is actually worn or about to wear out in the box? Syncros, or is third gear about to completely go? Some more info is its a HHHDB exedy clutch running redline shockproof oil, slave and master are new aswell.

The standard pump and gears are fine for a ful time drift car, ive got a stock bottom end rb25 in my full time drift car woth 320kw and does 1 or 2 drift events a month for last 2 years and no problems. Thats with alot of limiter smashing lol.

Its pretty hard to tell you if one is stronger thsn the other unless someone does destructive testing on them. Personally i think strength wise there wouldnt be difference its prob it anything quality of the rose joints, cusco ones will probably last longer.

To go aftermarket hi flow pump youd need the head oil mods to restrict the flow, without doing them i would just upgrade to stronger gears in the std pump if youre really worried about it.

Pretty straight forward locate the loom in the tyre guard number all the wires, chop the loom half way then re route each half through the hole in the engine bay. Then work out where you want it to sit in the engine bay and finally youll need to extend each wire to reconnect them. Did mine pretty boring job of cutting and resoldering extensions to like 60 wires lol.

Definately I would choose gktech there really good quality and very well priced, but if money is not a criteria then good a jap brand one.

I dont think whiteline do actual adj arms , they only have the adj bushes from what I have seen and those bushes are fine if you only want to make very slight adjustments as there is not much in them.

I have the complete driftworks arm set in my drift car snd im happy with the items been in for about 18months now. Slso yes you only need the upper arms, the adj lca are for adding more track which can also be used if you dont want to use spacers.

I remember quite a while ago he did offer one with the gate welded onto the housing.

Wtf did that radiator deform like that from just driving the car hard at high speeds lol?

Laggy?lol Thats not laggy full boost at 3800 is great. You need to drive with a 3540 hitting full boost at like 5 k thats laggy.

Ive onlyseen 4 x114.3 to 5x114.3

That is correct more camber you have the further in the top of the rim goes so serup the alighent you want to keep than work out what spacer you need.