boostn0199

It doesnt matter the width of your tyres you can put 235 on a 8 inch or 11 inch rim you need to measure the width of the rim itself. In regards to 9.5 +22 should be alright depending on how low your car is but at worst all youll need is roll guards which isnt big deal wouldnt need a flare.

Besides being 4 stud and smaller brakes suspension components are same.

Yep amazing what there capable of when you actually think about it approaching 16-19 year old motors and pumping out double power at limiter continuously. Mines going 315kw for 2 years track car now heavy revs and sounds perfect, amazes me everytime it gets through another track day. Definately has made me lean towards option of just chucking another 2nd hand one in when it finaly does blow.

I don't really see the point in probably paying more for a new china cooler that you dont know if it will be up to the task rather than picking up another standard one for cheaper but you know will handle the task no problems just for some extra shine. In my opinion unless you want to pay a decent price and go with a decent aftermarket cooler then stick with proven stock.

It will usually say inside the rim when you take it off how wide it is and the offset aswell, if you cant find can always just measure it up. In regards to offset basically if you can roughly work out how much further you want the rims you have now to sit out, then once you know the specs of current rims you can do some calculations or easier yet stick the info into a online offset calcualtor along with the size your looking at. It will give you how much further they will sit out and protrude on the inside, from there you play aorund til you get around the figure you calculated in the start of how far you would like the your current rims to come out.

In general the lock on any 4wd are going to be weak compared to the 2wd. If its not a drift car and as you said just for fun with some circle work at skid pans you dont need to worry about swapping racks and what ever to get abit more lock its only if you were actually going to try drift with it, the real lack of lock would make it hard.

One of hypergears first model turbos from like 3.5years ago tr43i with 0.63 rear. When does yours hit full boost?

What turbo is that What turbo is that? looks almost identical to my graph.

The arp studs provide better clamping then the bolts but that being said it wont be an issue running standard bolts for most peoples cases. When I did my head I used standard bolts and with 315kw no problems with them.

Nop in aus, tengoku imports they are forum trader ordered it at night had it delivered next day afternoon.

Koyo is one of the best vaule for money imo at about 500 and I have put it through its passes with 25min continuous drifting mainly 3rd close to limiter on a 39 degree day and temps didnt go past 95.

I would buy 33 gtr out of what you listed.

If you plan on running 98 yes.

Best way is by feel you definately feel when they are approacing that spot where you need effort and thats where you stop. For me its always about half to thre quater turns.

If thats the case it most likely its bent. Have you tried wiggling the suspension arm around while trying to turn the bolt and have someone push on the other end of the bolt sometimes that will help it get through, otherwise youll just have to chop it.

Sounds like something Id like to do shame its in NSW.

Great work. Love how the 4 door r32s can go from looking like rubbish stock to really nice with good offset and low espcially drift spec ones.

Sorry i mistyped it i meant is the nut off? But yeah the bolts are special since they have a keyway in them for the washer. If you dont want to use the adj washer you can put normal bolt in to repalce it.

So your saying its getting stuck and theres no washer? Usually the washer is the reason for the bolts sticking when the keyway is damaged. Does the bolt cOme off? If no washer and bolt is off and wont come out then its prob bent so prob option is cut it out.

Yep that will be fine doing that you wont have any problems. By all means if you have a drain plug with a custom setup than I would drain it aswell but my response was more for if you dont have a drain plug on it.

He doesnt need teflon or braided hose the efi hose is fine many ppl are running it without problem. Ive got the stock hoses for last 2 yeArs e85 no problem. Its only worth going teflon if your got a hatch boot and smell is an issue or he has extra coin but it is not a necessity.

Yeah draining the oil cooler isnt really necessary unless you dont change the oil at correct intervals, like above if done every 5 k with good quality oil not a big deal with the half to one litre probably thats left in the cooler and lines or just leave the car sitting over night and most the oil drains down back into the block providing your oil cooler and relo unit are higher than the oil port on the block.

Yeah saw that just brain was lazy and didnt click that the boost was in kpa instead of psi so wasnt making sense until I realised this and converted it lol.

lol my bad probably should of checked from page 1 I started reading backwards for 20 pages or so.

So these t67 on a rb25 when are they hitting full boost at? And is the power you get similar to a 3076?