lachlanw

search power fc disease . end of story . hint watch your airflow meter voltage after you let off the gas

do you have a "slip" and "A-LSD" light on your tacho ? a active lsd as per 33 gtr v spec was an option in the 25t's . it has a fluid resivior in the boot for the pump to the diff

the silver bit that covers the dails will be a manual one and will cover up all the "p r n d 321" on the auto cluster as it doesnt have the slot cut in it. my rs four s dash has holes for all the auto lights in the back of it

plus the (ABS) light next to the 4wd one . goes out faster than i can take a photo

hicas doesnt have a pump . hicas has an electric motor direct drive to the hicas steering rack . attesa has a electric motor driving a hydraulic pump both mounted on top of the rear diff

mine has a hicas light . "hicas" . has a 4wd light . "4wd" no s in it . yours sounds like its half an auto or something . shouldnt have the 4wd light with the s in it as autos have this and its syncro . makes 50:50 torque split front and rear . manuals done have it . got a pic of your dash when you turn the key on and all the lights turn on

swap them one at a time till its fixed . start from #6

if ever i saw a good add for the factory remote start .(assumes m35s had that option) awesome photo

You basically have 4 forces acting on the BOV. -Pressure or vacuum on the top of the diaphram -Pressure on the bottom of the diaphram via that lower port -Pressure on the underside of the valve itself -Spring pressure on the top of the diaphram The combination of these forces is what determines the bahavior of the BOV. I'm trying to think of a short way to describe all of the typical situations, but I don't think there is one. The key point though is that the valve and diaphram are not the same size. The force on each is different at the same pressure since force = pressure times area. The diaphram is always larger than the valve, giving it more control over the BOVs actions than the valve. If the diaphram is twice the size of the valve, and there is 20 psi of boost (so 20 psi on the top of the diaphpram and 20 psi on the bottom of the valve), the valve will stay shut since there is double the force holding it shut. Also add in the spring pressure trying to hold it shut. The problem is that the lower port allows the same boost pressure to reach the bottom the of the diaphram trying to open the valve. It effectively cancels the pressure on the top port, leaving only the spring pressure to hold the valve shut. If this was a static system it would still stay closed, but pressure in the IC piping (lower port) and in the manifold (upper port) is always varying, and at different rates. So the BOV tend to open at some pressure differential. The purpose of the lower port, also called the fast release port, is to open the BOV more quickly when the throttle plate closes. Vacuum will build up on the top of the diaphram pulling the valve up, and pressure will spike in the UICP pushing on the valve (remember that is is ~half the size of the diaphram) AND on the lower part of the diaphram, opening it quickly. And in fact, putting atmosphere on that lower port will slow down the valves reaction time, and the valve/turbo become very noisy. And I agree that you would never want to cap off the bottom of the diaphram, as it would hinder movement of the diaphram.

the hole is there because the factory bov is like a delta gate waste gate . it has a valve on a seat . not like bov that has a piston . the hole in it is there so boost in the j pipe (side of bov diaphram)combined with vacuum (on the top of bov) will fully open the bov . blocking this hole means that as soon as the bov valve lifts of the seat a lil bit all the air ruches past it and it doesnt open fully .

and or give it a bleed . or make sure the hose isnt ballooning . or either cylinder isnt leaking . does the clutch slowly engage drive ( in gear ) if you hold it in for ages ?(act like you are letting the clutch out slowly even tho pedal is still right to floor

clutch is getting worn out and slave cylinder cant push springin far enough to fully disengage it . check clutch fluid resivior

you can put it under the diff or under any subframe mounting points

the answer to your question is undo the bolt in the middle of it .

ever heard of a serach ? itll be on the outside . go but some plastx from what ever the oz equilivent of repco is . itll make them look mint for a while . depends on weather the car is kept garaged or outside . it is UV from the sun that makes them go like it and it will do it again as the factory UV resistant coating has worn out

last time i bought any i payed $290 for a drum full (200 litres)

what seal are you talking about ? do you have a bonnet ?

put a push bike pump on the hoses and see what pressure it takes to full open them both . a 32 actuator is a pretty fool proof upgrade . and ive never heard of one losing tention on the spring . we had one that leaked and it made tha car run 17 psi . i know of a few 25ts ive put them on and thay all run between 11 and 12 psi depending on fmic and exhaust upgrades fitted to car

get a higher pressure actuator . its never gonna work properly when your target boost is over 4X your waste gate pressure duty cycle would have to be massive if not 100% depending on your plumbing . and changing 1% will have a massive effect due to massive difference between actuator pressure and target pressure

get them side by side and pull on them both . 25t one is easy as . 20det one is quite hard . like i struggle to pull it straight out , have to jam thumb against bracket and kinda lever it to move it . it is possible the turbo you bought had a 25t actuator on it . post a pic of it

is it mainley between 4500 rpm and 6000 it feels flat as shit ? mine does . it has fmic and exhaust and less boost than standard and its still does it someone posted the timing figures for a rb25det ecu with more air flow . cant be bothered finding it bit it was like 17 btdc up to 4500 , chopped it back to 6 btdc between 4500 and 6000 then back up to 17 btdc after 6000 . all figures very VERY vague ish but yeah thats the main problem some days mine has good days and goes hard and some days its a waste of time . my car only gets driven like once a month tho .

god dam that is one ugly stereo . is it factory ? as much as id love some dayz bits ill take my center gauges and alpine cda 9887 and factory manual any day . there was a yellow dayz manual on 34 gtr rims on a car yard in christchurch nz .it vanished not long after i bought mine from same yard . anyone know anything about it ?

i like how they call the ferrari f 40 the last real super car . none of that shit . just massive wheels and a twin turbo v8

it was kinda identified a couple of days ago did you not read any previous posts?

slow as in refering to to the car overall looks like its up to fruk all in that video