lachlanw

do a search

its EXACTLY the same .

get a 6 sided socket

yeah the r35 has a limiter untoill the sat nav knows your on the race track and turns it off

yo should bet a proper boost gauge aswell . would help this problem . even jus borrow one . my car ran 0.7 kgfcm2 (10.2 psi) with just a cat back exhaust . still has standard cat and front pipe

"The powerplant is the RB25DET as introduced in the R33 GTS25T. In R34 form, however, the engine is upgraded to more environmentally friendly 'NEO' specs. The NEO RB25DET also features a hot-wire airflow meter, 9.0:1 static compression, air-to-air intercooler, ceramic turbine roller-bearing turbocharger, blow-off valve and variable inlet cam timing. With manifold boost pressure of around 60 - 70 kPa (as shown on the factory boost gauge) the R34 25GTt is listed at 206kW at 6400 and 343Nm at 3200 rpm. The R34 25GTt scores its extra power over previous models thanks to a larger turbo (providing a healthier amount of boost), better intercooler, an improved exhaust system and engine management updates."

i think anyone who doesnt own a rs four s should mind their own business as half of this post is a discussion about the diff between a s and a rsfour . i have followed nissans flow chart for symptoms and diagnosis and ya cant really narrow it down much by those symptoms . nah its weird ive never heard or had one "boost cut" it not like a normal boost cut either . doesnt throw you through the windscreen more like a bad miss fire . and car never did it running 12 psi

and yeah loving the auto cup holders . manuals have cup holders . they between the gearstick and the centre console

did noone else spot the "1999" and the series 1 head lights ? like in the first 2 seconds of looking

mine did that ocasionaly standard apart from cat back . is your a manual ? standard 10 psi all the way through rev range? it did it twice . usually when i had boosted all the way through 1-3 and was winding out 4th and it would like "boost cut" and only run half boost untill i turned car off and restarted it . engine light fould flash right when it did . flash once . checked codes and it gave me "55". boost was not very stable with standard controller tho . hasnt doen it once with fmi and ebc set to 0.65 . didnt even do it when it went to .9 bar during tuning of ebc

$1.68 is cheap for 98 in nz

you know one is a tensioner and one is an idler ? have you got them in the right places ? one cam be half a tooth advanced and one half retarded . that equates to one full tooth out from each other .

how did you move it ? and wtf is a "tomei afr" where is your bleed valve plumbed from and where is your bov plumbed from ?hopefully not the same line. is the bov adjusted so its closed at idle ?

lol when you hit that link this page is the first hit . yeah i spent a couple of hours googling before i posted it here . do the first half of the number not mean anything ? as i found a few hits on the other numbers already

can someone tell me what that is off . front housing is identical to a gtir t28 apart from the (1-2) at the end . this has (1-1) . exhaust housing matches gtir specs

been on trade me nz for well over 2 years . $120 nz . got one here if anyone in nz wants one cheap

nah just dont like typing . and was half pissed . and actually trying to halp someone . twat . if you havent got something usefull to say then f off .

how much oil did you manage to tip in there . it wont fit much ? and yeah the attesa chain throws it all out if yous seal is not pefect. and yeah its not meant to be in there anyway . red line is $28 NZ a litre . how much did you pay ?

list of mods .

it looks to be a rip off if a gfb blow off valve but it could be e real one . its a waste of time trying to put that on a skyline . noone makes an adaptor and you would need to maori something up . youd need something to go from the flange on the j pipe to a rubber hose clamped onto a short piece of metal inside that blow off valve . or block the standard one and weld a scopot on the piping somewhere

yeah what a douche . chewing up 50% of the home page . you dont even say what rims you want . and you spelt rims wrong in one title

oh well ive seen plenty about it . including 2 seperate multi page articles in australian car magazines that live in the bog . they seemed to recon it was common and well known . the air goes back wards because the turbo has sucked in more than the engine needed and then youv shut the throttle so it has no where to go but back out .

thats the traction controll . it does have a switch . just turn it off . or rip the fuse if you want to not have to push the button everytime you turn car on

i didnt ask if you have a power fc . it makes no difference . it is called power fc disease . it is air going backwards through your airflow meter . ecu doesnt know which way the air is going so it thinks its going in . air in =fuel in . but the air never went in so car runs rich and tries to burn it all . your lucky . somepeoples cars do it so bad the car stalls

rs four stagea throttle body is ugly as f**k because its the same body but has a stupid cover over where the motor should be. i hate it want a rb25det one . but then dunno if the j pipe fits so meh