djr81

The only problem being a set of coilovers, however nice, will not fix much of what is listed as being wornout. Also if you look around in the for sale threads you will find second hand stock shockies for beer money. Just check they are in good working condition before buying them.

Well relative to a good quality rim - say a Rays - Tempe's rubbish will weigh in at approx 75% to near on 100% heavier. http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competi.../aluminum01.pdf Obviously if you get cast rather than forged rims the difference will be less substantial. None the less Tempes rims weigh 60kg. Rays a little under 34kg. I am sure you can do better than what is offered.

To be honest I wouldn't muck about too much. For the small amount of money these things cost second hand just go buy one from someone wrecking a car. Then you will have some certainty & possibly some working HVAC. To answer you first question yes try & read the outputs from the controller with your multimeter. But understand it isn't infallible. The mode door actuator is a small bit of gear with motors/ gears arms etc on it. Sits near your left knee when you are seated in the car.

Yeah I was trying to give him an indication of how it would feel for acceleration.

Um I had this problem. I replaced the mode door actuator. The problem went away. With a multimeter check the actuator is receiving a signal from the control unit. If it is then the overwhelming probability is the actuator is cactus.

I doubt very much you will feel any great difference in acceleration. But obviously an extra 20kg wont help. Try going for a drive then chucking a bag of cement in the boot & see if you can feel any difference. What you will almost certainly notice is that the car rides worse than previously & it struggles for traction whenever there are bumps in the road. Bottom line: Please don't put cheap heavy wheels on a Skyline.

You need to understand the difference between small surface cracks on the faces of the rotor & more substantive cracks which are on the edges of the rotor. The first of these are common on rotors used for track days etc. The do not necessarilly represent a problem. The second type of cracks do represent a problem & are grounds for replacing the rotors. Any crack radiating to the outside of the rotor will, eventually, cause it to fail. The photos aren't very clear but you definately have the former & probably the latter. The crack at about half past two looks pretty terminal. If you have caused this sort of an issue driving on the roads you need to have a good long think about what you are doing. The things I would question are as follows: Are the rotors within their wear limits? Are the stone guards still in place (I think they are) & if so are they preventing the rotor from processing cooling air and causing the outside of the rotor to cool whilst leaving the inside hot. This will show up in pad wear if the inside is well worn & the outside not then you have this problem. Differential heating/cooling from inside to outside causes cracking. Do you allow the things to warm & cool properly ie slowly. In anycase I would be replacing the rotors & thinking about how to get some cooling air to tthem.

It not usually the inside temp sensor it is usually the actuator at the back of the centre cluster (at the bottom on the passenger side) that gives up the ghost & stops reacting to the control signals from the climate system. Almost invariably it is a dry solder joint in there. If you do a search you will find loads of posts on how to fix it. The downside is you need to remove the stereo etc from the console to get at it. The upside is it costs bugger all to fix.

A couple of thoughts spring to mine. 1. Bastard. 2. Send data. Now.

RE55's are a very good track tyre on a GT-R. they are pretty awful things on the road, however. The price is about right, but check the compound (you want SR2's) & the build date on the tyre sidewall (written in week number & year so for example 2608 would be fron July last year). The front & rears should be the same size on a GT-R. Not just from a ATTESSA viewpoint but from a chassis balance (ie understeer/oversteer) viewpoint. GT-R's understeer like cops due to poor weight distribution. You need to have the same rubber all round & do some fairly drastic mods to the suspension settings to get them balanced. By this I mean fairly large amounts of negative camber on the front - in the three and a half degree ballpark depending on the circuit.

I would give Senna a seat. Kovalainens.

Well here is hoping the R35 is more successful sales wise than the r32's. The original Godzilla sat around stinking up Nissans forecourts for a very long time. Mind you the R32 was released in the middle of a recession. Oh, wait. I am curious about a couple of things: 1. How does anyone suppose Nissan will be able to differentiate between failures caused by track work & failures that may be grounds for warranty claims? 2. Your local dealer be of no help in fettling the car for track work. At most they may do a wheel alignment but remember even Nismo parts void the warranty. So at the end of the day how valuable is staying involved with the dealer?

Here are my F40 callipers on a 324 project Mu rotor. Fit is absolutely fine.

This sort of question gets answered incorrectly too often. You need to match the rolling diameters of the wheels front & back for the ATTESSA system to work correctly. One of the key parameters in the system is measuring wheelspeed (all of them) & comparing them to detect wheelspin. Mismatching front/rear diameters can trick the system into thinking you have wheelspin. The system then clamps the wet clutch (ie the ATTESSA clutch) which because you have mismatched wheel diameters puts undue strain on your drivetrain. However there is a small tolerance built in so it doesn't have to be millimetre perfect. But the important thing to note is this: GT-R's have poor weight distribution & understeer when pushed. If you put wider wheels on the back you will degrade the handling of the car. Which presumably is not something you would set out to do. With regard to wheels you need to be careful with widths & offsets. Too many people have got this wrong & ended up with useless rims & tyres. Sizes & offsets vary with models. So, in summary. BAD IDEA. DON'T DO IT.

Looks like the Honda F1 team has been sold to the principals. http://news.theage.com.au/breaking-news-wo...90306-8qje.html

I wouldn't get excited about it. It is simply another example of police who confuse getting their photo in the paper & trying to humiliate people with doing their job.

The degree to which a driver develops a car is much overstated these days. It used to be true, but with so many sensors, so many simulations & so much testing it is no longer the case. Basically the engineers develop the car & to a very large degree tell the driver how it should be driven. Which is how things should be really.

The are two fairly obvious possibilities. 1. Brown greasy crap (dependent on how brown, greasy & indeed crap it is) can be a legacy of poor corrosion inhibitor maintenance from the past. Sometimes when these things are flushed they don't get all of the crap in the system but it can loosen up for later on. 2. Try the water/oil heater/cooler just behind the oil filter. This can & does fail.

All of which goes to prove the point that GP racing has ranged far & wide & there isn't much point being too precious about wherever they may turn up next. I mean some of the places they have been too were just incomprehensible. How about a car park in Las Vegas? Auto Union did more than just dabble. But that was pre-war. They are now basically Audi. All swing axles, leaf suspension & massive horsepower. How any one survived is beyond my understanding.

That dyno graph is eerily reminiscent of mine. Just that I used a -5 Garrett & a different tuner. The numbers are within a few rwhp all the way up the graph. A couple of things: 1> Why do you want to get rid of the extra boost about 5000rpm? 2> I recently checked the voltage from my Z32 AFM's from the Power FC using the peak/hold function. Spat out a few milli volts below 4.0Volts for a supposed 435 rwhp. I would be curious to see what number your give (If you have AFM's that is). I cross checked it with the Nismo AFM cruve to use the mass flow & hence calculate the engine output. Worked out spot on.

If it only cost you $1200 for the tyres & rims then I would suggest: Keep the tyres. Sell the rims. That way you can get something more appropriate. As teh Baron says if it is an R32 GT-R then a good size is an 18x9 +22. But you can get away with a bit less in trackwidth on the offset. There are loads of second hand rims for sale. I would go down that road as I believe cheap Bob Jane rims on a GT-R are a travesty. Check out the SAU for sale items & the vendors list. Stuff like this is common. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/F-...tml&hl=rims

The lesson is two fold. 1. Tyrepower/Bob Janes etc aren't as expert as you would want them to be. You should be using a proper suspension place as recommended by other Skyline owners. 2. I understand you are annoyed & why you are annoyed but at the end of the day how much time do you want to spend arguing with morons? With regard to the offset a surprising wide range can be fitted (albeit not necessarilly legally) without having adverse affects on the handling. If you can demonstrate to the vendor what he fitted is not roadworthy you may have half a chance of getting things fixed.

In terms of constructors/suppliers I take the viewpoint of good on anyone who wants to have a go. Doesn't matter where they come from. If you think about it F1 really have historically largely been restricted to France/England/Italy for chassis & to that list you could add Japan for motors. I mean, Spain didn't give a rats for F1 until Alonso turned up. Germany had nothing post war other than BMW & Mercedes engine efforts & maybe Zakspeed. Even then Mercedes motors were Ilmors anyway. I guess you have to add Toyota to the German contribution now too. By the way do you realise they used to run a GP in North Africa - Morocco to be exact? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moroccan_Grand_Prix

I don't understand why people want to block up the blowby control valve when they fit a catch can. If it is done properly you still retain the functionality of the valve.

Forget that. If Honda can sell their F1 team we will get to find out if Senna is next, um, Senna. I am still curious to see if Rosberg is the next Rosberg, Nakajima the next Nakajima & Piquet the next Piquet. America does not have any real tradition of F1 teams. Maybe Dan Gurney's Eagles & the Shadow team at a stretch. Beyond that there really isn't anything. Given Honda's new found eco/green/tree hugging engineering emphasis I cant see them returning to F1 any time soon. Which is a shame. Williams Honda, anyone? On the upside atleast they will be producing some interesting cars - more so than Toyota anyway. Shame about the NSX. Buried in the history books are two little factoids. 1: When Jack Brabham was looking for a production engine block for what became the Repco F1 engine he we to Japan to meet with a little company called Prince..... 2: HKS once made a prototype F1 motor in the 80's/90's. Needless to say it didn't go anywhere.