djr81

See for yourself the air flow volumes versus the voltage output. By my reading there is sod all between the Nismo & the Z32's. The main difference is the Nismo item can be fitted to a stock airbox. http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competi...26dett.html#afm I would be interested in seeing the same curves for the Rb20/Rb25 units as I have heard some widely different stories about their capacities.

Yes the tag says 2560 but the turbo is a 2860. Mine are the same. No idea why.

Sorry I should have made myself clearer. When I changed from a Whiteline spring to an Eibach I changed the spring rate because the Whitelines were too soft for track work. The upside is that the Eibach spring is a lighter spring than the Whiteline - about 4 kg between the four - this despite having a higher rate. Also you can select from a wide range of rates whereas with the Whiteline you are stuck with one. You can revalve the Bilsteins if you want/need to. SK didn't recommend doing so going from a SK/Whiteline package to a 5kg front /4kg rear on an R32 Gt-R. So you MAY find it possible to change to a harder Eibach spring & keep your (unmodified) dampers for quite a bit less money than shelling out for a Tein or similar package.

Like teh Baron says it is a resonator. But do yourself a favour. Use the remaining pipework to help get some cold air to the pods. Works like this: Beneath the headlight there is the air inlet which used to feed the stock air box. The resonator is connected underneath it. Use this connection to grab some air fron the front left hand side of the front bar. That way when you get sick of your pods sucking hot air from the engine bay you will have a ready source of cold, pressurised air.

Why not keep the Bilsteins & run them with Eibach springs? That is what I did.

No worries I will no doubt see you there. Mine is also a white R32 Gt-R by the way.

Re55 are supposed to be quicker than 888's. Gary wrote some interesting stuff on the IPRA forums: Just when it was getting interesting.......the problem I am having is that we have tested pretty much every tyre on the CAMS list and there is a mixture of strengths and weaknesses. Some simple examples; Hankooks, great under brakes and power down but deficient in corner speed, don't like a lot of slip angle, relatively poor wear. Kumhos, not as good under brakes, similar corner speed, don't mind a lot of slip angle, good wear characteristics. Dunlops, good all round, very predicatable and stable performance over many laps, no big advantage anywhere but ended up being our choice Bridgestones, OK under brakes and power down, the best corner speed, pace went off them noticeably on a hot day, average wear Toyos, average all round performance wise but great wear rate Hoosier, not availabe in the right size Yokohamas, OK all round, significantly higher green tyre advantage than others, average wear Falken, poor under brakes and power down, OK corner speed, Ok wear Testing was over a number of days, using a crew of 6, with 3 drivers and utilising the necessary suspension adjustments made to optimise each tyre used. We have double adjustable Proflex shocks, adjustable ride height, many spring rates to choose from and a good range of camber, caster and toe adjustments. Being a production car, anti roll, ROC and CoG adjustments aren't practicle. So if I had a car that was bad under brakes I might well be better off choosing the Hankooks, using their advantage in that area to compensate. Conversely if I had a car that was good under brakes, but lacked corner speed then the Bridestones would be the go. If I was running on a circuit that was heavy on tyres then the Toyos would be an advantage. If I had a car with a lot of power and needed good power down then I wouldn't pick the Falkens. Note, no wet weather testing, that adds a whole new dimension to the equation. Hence my conclusion that there is no perfect tyre, they all have compromises, some more than others and the best tyre for one car is unlikely to be the best tyre for every other car. Worse still, even on the same car, the best tyre for one circuit may not be the best tyre for another circuit. That's why a free choice of tyres is always a category's less value for money decision when you have guys who take whatever advantages each tyre gives their car and whatever they can get on each circuit.

Just make sure when you are buying tyres - particularly parallel imports & specials - that you check the build date on the tyre.

Easiest way is to use one of the kanji to english translator websites. Tye (for example) red into the thing & get the Japanese characters back. Match it up tot he colour & text for the wire & you are away. That fixes the speed cut side. The other side is just pin outs from the ECU. Easy. Oh and you attachment is not high res enough for people to read (Not that I can).

Well when it lights up park the car up & without turning it off check the LED on the ATTESSA computer & count carefully how many flashes it gives you. Should be anything up to about 25. After looking up the workshop manual you will know what is wrong with it.

The computer is under the parcel shelf on the passengers side. Is the red light lighting up on the dash? attessa.PDF

Like these? 10 spoke Blitz rims. Or maybe try the AVS five spoke style. Or if you really want to go out on a limb you could have the only R32 in oz running on stock rims....

Well anyone who can pedal a 917 around well then take the piss out of the Germans afterwards has my vote.

A couple of points. When you bled the system did you bridge the pump using the circuit in the kick panel on the drivers side footwell or just try & let gravity get the air out? Is there an error showing on the ATTESSA computer?

Actually talk of Morris on the one hand & TW on the other reminds me I forgot to make mention of Frank Gardner. Cromley said in the broadcast that he is not well. It is sad that such a wonderful, piss funny bloke is largely missing from Australian motorsport these days. He was a huge part of the success BMW enjoyed in the 80's - helping the like of Jim Richards to ATCC championships. Not to mention the Sierras. Also helping some bloke called Paul Morris along too. Australian motorsport needs more blokes like Frank Gardner & fewer of the likes of TW. Maybe everyone should don a terry towelling hat the next time they front on race day....

Gees Baron I said thanks when you signed those 8x10 glossie photos for me.... Yeah sad to see the last of the GT-R drivers stopping full time driving. The only lingering thought was what may have been this year had it not been made a mess of by TW. Still the Kellys bailed on him as has Skaife. So I think I will start a rumour that MS is driving for Larry next year. OP is a loss too. The place had character. Just not sure why channel 7 showed the historical package that consisted only of shots of Mike bloody Raymond. Twats. Don't forget Paul Morris chucked it in too. A bloke that was never short of a dollar nor of an opinion.

Well as far as I have got is roading them. Had to wait for some new brake lines which only arrived last week. The first thing to notice is the inch or so of initial travel on the pedal that you get with the stock callipers which does nothing has gone. So feel is much better. Will have to wait for this weekends sprint to see how they like a bit f heat into them but it all looks promising for now.

You are getting the terms mixed up. Have a look at the attachment. It shows an exploded diagram of the rear suspension. You will see there is a lower arm and two upper links - a front & a rear. Ignore the lower link it does not get altered as part of a camber adjustment. To adjust things more than standard you need a camber adjustment kit (or two) that adjusts both the front & rear upper links. One kit does the inside bushes. A second kit does the outside ones but is only needed if you want yet more adjustment. From memory (not reliable) it is about 0.75 degrees per kit. If you just get a replacement upper rear link (the link, not the bushes) you can fix the camber issue but add in a whole heap of bump steer. Which is what BNR32 is saying. rear.PDF

Looks like another one of those lamp post jumped out infront of me scenarios. Add up what the bits on the car are worth to you or what they are worth if you sold them. That will give you an idea of what you can afford to offer for it.

Oh dear. There are a few things wrong with that. The first problem is that an R32/33/34 Skylines do not have a McPherson strut suspension. So you can jack the strut mount (by which I assume you mean the shock tower) all you like & it won't make a difference. See the attachment for the layout. The most common technique is to change the effective length of the upper transverse link either by using offset bushes (eg Whiteline) or replacing the link with a shorter & sometimes adjustable unit (eg Cusco, Noltec etc). Now all of you, play nice. front.PDF

Wonder if old Tom will turn up to cheer him on. I'm sure the HRT jacket wearing bogons would love the Scotsman to make an appearance. The old story really, lay down with dogs, wake up with fleas....

Not so many lols for Skaife: http://www.theage.com.au/national/skaife-m...81201-6nwx.html

Mmm nothing like getting gravel fired into your skull by a world champion....

The ABS system on the R32 GT-R weighs in at 5.5kg. I had mine out the other week.

Well it is Villeneuve in the Ferrari & I think Petersen in the Lotus 72. Both of whom are now dead - killed in race accidents. So I will take the new age safe cars any day. I prefer my F1 drivers alive.