djr81

Sadly, I think this year is going to be tough on Williams. Worse than the last couple of years infact. They have gone out on a limb with the KERS they have chosen & also gone with a short wheel base car which will inevitably compromise their aerodynamics - albeit with better weight distribution which ties back into the oddball KERS they will be using). Their major sponsor just posted a record loss & I can't see them keeping Rosberg for too much longer. Not much light at the end of the tunnel. Anyway, hope I am wrong.

I had the same fault show up. Best/first thing to do is unplug the sensor on the motor & give it a quick clean (the connector pins too) & show it some love. Failing that swap it with a known good unit. It is far more likely to be the sensor/connection at the sensor end than anything to do with the ATTESSA wiring.

The closest thing I can think of is Michael Andretti getting to drive a McLaren in his first season. Yes because the STR is such a complete dog of a car in the wet & no one called Sebastian could possibly drive a car well. Monza proved that. & if my Auntie had balls she would be my Uncle. Can we move onto 2009 now? Same arguments, just a new thread & a new year.

So in summary blah blah blah, you like Massa & not Hamilton. Anyone who wins anything in motorsport deserves their victory. Which is something anyone who has ever participated in motorsport would understand.

Cheers for the info. I briefly looked at their website - out of stock & more expensive. RHD Japan want $3670. I will have to chase up some contacts for trade prices.

Ronin, I take it that quote was ex Just Jap & recent? I am in the same spot you are at the moment, ie gearbox not happy.

Check item 8 first. Make sure the thing works properly or you will have the problems you described. A failed blowby control valve will allow oil to get into the turbo compressor housing & leak onto the exhausts after a while. So, does the thing stink of oil when you are waiting at the traffic lights? But yes if you cracked two pistons & didn't clean anything afterwards you may well have left over oil in the system. However it shouldn't take too long to for it to disappear. Mostly it just leaks out of the bov's.

Collie is a great circuit for sprint events. I am not sure how it will go for proper grown up racing however as I can't think of anywhere to overtake. Still it will be nice to cars racing somewhere other than Wanneroo. Hoping it isn't too hot for this weekends hillclimb & sprint up there.

There is much more to it than that. What you are talking of is reducing the roll couple. Firstly as you lower the ride height you lower the c of g. But you also move the roll centre. By a different amount usually. And the front will be different to the rear. The downside of reducing the roll couple is that it reduces feel. The upside is that it reduces roll. The complication is that is can sometimes either increase or decrease the understeer/oversteer characteristic of the car. Which in turn depends on a whole bunch of other things.

I am looking at the Mines & Reimax cam cover baffles for the RB26's. The thing I can quite get my head around is physically how large are they? Does anyone have some approx dimension - particularly for the Mines ones. The Reimax equivalents appear to be much shorter. Both are shown on the Greenline site if anyone is wondering where to look.

My motor just has bolt ons. I guess I am just trying to make the point (Again, I know I'll go away soon) that a -5 will push out numbers in the range of 400-450rwhp on less psi than a -7 or even a -9. Which is always a bonus if you want to look after the thing. Less compression = less heat. But to clarify for two same same motors with different turbos and a same rwhp number the BMEP figure for the motors will be very close.

Good writeup but you missed one of the key things needed to set a good lap/stage time. Lateral grip. Now despite all the hype this is obviously going to be less of a consideration in a drift car than a track car. So one of the fundamental concerns for anyone on a track setting times gets ignored. Stretching a tyre does nothing for lateral grip. Stuffing as much rubber under the guards as you can does help. If you ever get the chance to look under a touring car running unrestricted rubber you will see the guards are a mess of black where the tyres are in contact over bumps etc.

-5's.

330rwkw for 20psi is an awful lot of boost for that reading from a -5. My RB26 is within a few rwkw using 15psi.

How much did you pay for the Project Mu fluid? The lines you have now will be fine. Braided lines will help give you a better (firmer) pedal feel. With regard to the ADR compliance issue most imported braided lines do not comply & therefore you can get defected for them. They are in any case available locally from multituudes of shops. If you are getting the rotors machined check how close they are to the minimum. Under thicknesses or barely legal thickness rotors don't tend to enjoy the whole track experience.

Project Mu are good, cheap & available. They can be had in either a one piece or a hatted 2 piece rotor. They are much better than either the RDA or the DBA rotors. If you are going near a track I would recommend them. If you just drive on the road the RDA's will be fine. I have had a total of 8 DBA 4000 rotors. They are sitting in a pile on the floor of the shed as 6 of them are cracked. As mentioned earlier it is the return slots that cause the problem. In fact I would (for track purposes) avoid any rotor that has slots that continue to the outer edge of the rotor. I used the RDAs for one track day only & they survived ok. I wouldn't recommend them for continued usage however.

Alot of cars int he hpi mags (& others) claim to be time attack but it is clear from looking at them that they have either never been near a track or if they have are hopeless. Brakes that look like brand new, hopeless spring rates & no negative camber are just some of the things that give the game away. If you look at an R compound after it has been used properly it is a very ugly tyre. Be aware also that some of the workshop cars will be on what are basically show rims/tyres ie not what they run at the track. Tooling about seconds off the pace does not make a good track car. Just like stretching a road tyre does not make a good track tyre. Any half decent track car will use the correct tyres - either a r compound or a slick. Both of which have the carcass construction to obviate any need to stretch anything. Look if you want to do it because you reckon it looks fully sik then go ahead. But please don't advocate it as a preferred alternative to anyone who is in any way serious about a good lap time. If people want to use them for drifting then good on them.

No they didn't. Oh and not all 94 GT-R's were V-spec. You will probably find the bloke has made a mess of the dates. Get the numbers of the build plate & put it through fast for confirmation.

Not that this is what you are after but the corresponding figure for the R32 Gt-R with the 1" bore M/C is 1961kPa (284psi) * 0.4.

Rake adjustment (That is what you are speaking of) only really has a transient affect on the car behaviour. So if your thing has steady state understeer a rake adjustment wont help. Look up Carroll Smiths list of cause/affect & his comments on rake.

OK so you have an issue with the corner exit behaviour. Almost inevitably this is related to the ATTESSA (4WD) system. Basically you can get yourself into a situation where the system does not react quickly enough - hence the car behaves like a rear wheel drive car. To get a better perspective you are best off trying someone elses GT-R to see how a proper system works. This will help determine if it is a real problem or merely an issue when compared to the way the Magma drives. There are two common causes of the problem. 1. Air in the hydraulic system. 2. Wear in the clutch packs. Check the first one first. Get some ATTESSA fluid & bleed the system. Only then contemplate the second.

The GT40 in the front will almost certainly be a replica either a DRB, a Tornado or infact any one of atleast a dozen different knock offs that you can buy. The shame of it is I have yet to see one driven properly. They are pretty to look at & apparently ok to drive. Not sure as despite a couple of my mates building them I can't fit into the damn things. Gurney bubble anyone?

What you are looking at are wet/snow tyres designed to increase the tyres bearing pressure & hence avoid aqua planing. Not that it helped Atkinson. Then again he should consider not driving like a Muppet. Just an idea.

Um how did you arive at the conclusion the WRC teams do it? In rally Ireland (the last round) they used wets mostly & then the thinner softer (basically snow tyres) because it was so bitterly cold & wet. As far as I can remember only Henning Solberg used slicks (or cut slicks) on the final day. You can be assured the rim width is matched to the tyre width rather than stretched to try & take compliance out of the side wall. Basically people only used stretched tyres because they are either too cheap to pay money for proper tyres or they have been hoodwinked by all the drift hype.

You don't have to run the dash you can run the DL1 alone. As for sensors it depends what you want to run. Most of what is necessary is already present on a Nissan. Anyway compared to such things as the drift box/performance meter the offer a great deal more functionality for only a small amount of cash. But if you really want to do it on the cheap you can always use your phone.