djr81

It can be due to a number of factors, the most common being. 1 Incorrect set up. Mostly this involves people removing the pcv function which allows the sump to be pressurised which in turn causes problems. Make sure the pcv is fitted & working - this can be done even when a catch can is fitted. 2. Oil in the head splashing/generally finding its way into the recirc system. This is common on RB26's particularly. The popular conception is too much oil pumped is into the head - but it is just as much a function of poor shielding for the venting system. It can be fixed by oil restrictors (head off), oil return lines (engine out - mostly), Mines cam baffles (see below!) or oil/air seperators like the Nismo offerings (Stupid money for what you get). The principal advantages of these systems over catch cans is the are either hidden from view or look stock. Which means one less potential point of grief from the police. There are other offerings as shown in this thread but they tend to stick out like dogs b@llocks. 3. Blow by.

Well there is best & there is cheap & there is alot of ground in between. The RDA group buy are pretty good value if they are still around. No you dont need braided lines. But they do give you a nicer (harder) pedal feel.

Whether or not there is a rubber (or other polymer) end stop to the spring shouldn't be a function of it being linear, rising rate, tapered or straight. There are heaps of options, none of which are difficult. Just a matter of getting the mount to accept the end stop as well as the spring. http://www.resuspension.com/cart/home.php I much prefer linear springs. Simply because you can muck about with compliance with the end stops. Oh and if you run R comps on the road the things are that harsh/noisey you will never tell anyway.

Look I have tried (yeah, stupid I know) convincing people to get into motor sport rather than doing stupid sh!t on the road. What inevitably happens is they suddenly become aware of their own shortcomings - be it their true ignorance about cars or their lack of ability. So they just go back to doing stupid stuff on the road. Basically because: 1. Doing stuff properly is too hard. 2. Getting hosed by a pensioner in a 30 year old car on the track is not as fully sik as making up stories about street racing, burnouts etc for your mates. 3. Its too expensive - motorsport that is, somehow defect notices, court costs, fines etc etc are cheap. Anyway the point is people will always find some excuse to not do what they don't want to do. So lack of facilities is the current excuse. Fix that & they just move onto something else. The best you can hope for (& it is a parlous hope) is 1. Get people to recognise hoons & car enthusiasts are two different types of people. 2. Get some facilities.

Please don't link hoons to the motorsport fraternity. If you want to lobby for facilities for motorsport then good on you. But please don't link a bunch of mindless twats to the sport that I love. Overwhelmingly the people you find at grown up events are serious, responsible, enthusiastic & good at what they do. In other words a world away from some clown in a VN ripping a single pegger burnout for his rock ape mates. Hoons (for want of a better word) don't do what they do because of a lack of facilities. They do what they do because of a lack of cognitive processes. Hooning & motorsport - not the same.

If you are upgrading to a proper car, ie a GT-R then don't waste money on such things as callipers etc on your present car. To answer your questions: 1. A pulsing pedal is indicative of a warped rotor - weither get them machined or replaced. 2. If you are going on the track then avoid cross drilled rotors. 3. Bendix Ultimates aren't very good. But they are really dusty. Just get the following bits: 1. New/machined rotors - preferably new if you are going to a track day. 2. A half way decent pad - I would recommend a Ferodo DS2500 but there are plenty of others that are not too dissimilar. Probably a good idea to get fronts and rears as who knows what is on the car presently. 3. Some new fluid. Probably doesn't matter so much what it is, but the key is new. If you want to get the best stuff get some Motul RBF 660 - 2 500ml containers will probably be in the $60 to 470 range. 4. Some braided lines if you really want them. Just make sure they are ADR compliant. 5. In a general sense a master cylinder stopper usually helps pedal feel. If you are learning on the track massive brakes are not necessary. It tends to be one of the last things people learn to use properly. It is also one of the least influential elements on your lap time. So spend your money elsewhere.

The whole spherical (for want of a better term) top mounts things is somewhat overblown. If you look at the amount of rubber isolation inthe stock suspension you will find it to be minimal. It doesn't take much effort to put a small amount of rubber between the spring & the top plate of the suspension. Just be careful if, like BB's set up or the front of the SK setup with Eibachs that the rubber is retained at full droop because the spring is not. Yeah an alignment runs to ride height (If you haven't done it yet), castor, camber then toe. Just be carefull where you take it as half the places cannot fit there gear on your car when you run more than a couple of degrees of -ve camber. Sway bars dont form part of the alignment. Note also than the typical japanese sway bars (eg Cusco) are stiffer than the local stuff, most noticeably at the front. As an aside (ie the most important bit of the post), does anyone have an easy solution to enable people to reduce the amount of rubber in the Sk setup for EIbach/Bilstein. Here is a photo. There is a good 20mm of rubber in there (actually the old shock bump stop rubber). So how do you remove it without needing to run a huge bumpstop on the dampers. Also who sells this sort of stuff?

That is some quality programming. Anything good being whipped up? The Williams look quick. P1 & P2 after 1st practice. Rosberg is currently P1 in practice 2. Go the juniors.

Just over 5kg. Plus the bracket holding it up is rather epic.

Any chance of some more info: Like spring rates, age, mileage, model number? Photo? Am interested but it depends on what exactly they are.

Well it sort of makes you realise why everyone was getting bitter & twisted about the diffusres. Brawn, Williams & Toyota are all way up there. PS the F1 website live lap timing links suck teh wang. Sooooo slow.

Phark commercial digital tellie. What is that? We don't get any at all where I am. Never mind HD. Here is a rough explanation of what Williams & Toyota have done with the diffuser/crash structure . http://www.formula1.com/news/technical/2009/0/623.html http://www.formula1.com/news/technical/2009/0/622.html

Just so you understand. An R33 GTS-T is to the world of imports what a Kenny Gee album is to the world of music.

Imported R31's, model for model weigh very close to the 32's. Certainly not the 33's. The red top RB20 in them is, again, similar to the silver top version in the 32's. There is nothing particularly wrong with their suspension - it was a vast improvement over the R30's. The imports have IRS, albeit not quite as good as the 32's. As for a 33 - well yet another 33 GTS-T will really stand out, wont it. Personally I wouldn't go near an Australian built R31 unless maybe it was an SVD version. Even then it would only be for its oddball nature. But the 2 door imports can look good if done properly. They share much or their parts with the later models. Plus every man & his dog won't have one just like it.

That would be an import R31 - a GTS-X.

Stuff that. Find someone who has finished wrecking their car. Give them $20. Turn up with a screw driver & a few spanners. Go nuts.

Seriously, if the frame of a house gets hot enough to permanently change its composition then there is going to be so little left of the house its not worth worrying about. One of the great strengths of carbon steels is their ability to deal with changes in temperature without undue expansion/contraction or without losing significant strength. You cannot say that of materials such as stainless steel, aluminium or even wood. Also buckling is far more a property of design than of materials. As is stiffness. Do not confuse stiffness with strength. They are two different proerties. As you say timber frames will flex & twist where needed. They will also sag, twist, flex & rot where not needed. Wood is a great material for making trees. Any other use is marginal.

It is not one bolt. It is two bolts. One from either end. The left hand bolt reaches the end of the bushes thread & therefore allows the bush to be rotated as required. The lock nut then holds it in place. The right hand bolt is there to hold the other half to the upper link. It doesn't reach the end of the bushes thread. Do it up to the correct torque. Just be carefull not to rotate the bush as it will stuff your wheel alignment. It is not uncommon with these kits.

You should think about reducing/relocating weight in the following order: Reduce unsprung weight, ie wheels/tyres/brakes etc. Reduce weight in anything that rotates eg flywheels, pulleys, cam gears. Reduce sprung weight eg most of your list by either getting rid of gear or replacing it with lighter equivalents. Relocate weight (Lower, more centred, more towards the rear). You need to do all the annoying/bullshit things to if you are serious. Like redundant brackets, wiring looms etc etc. I would avoid drilling holes & removing structural metal unless you really know what you are doing. Also there is a bundle of weight to be saved in the exhaust, engine bay (brackets, breathers, blank plates, emission control gear etc etc etc), cabin (wiring, HVAC)... But the best advice I ever got went as follows: Go on a diet you fat fk. The advantage of being lighter/fitter is less stress/fatigue in the car & hence better concentration.

Sorry I should have been clearer. What I wrote other than one line, related to the 324*30 rotors. If you are just going to get standard rotors & are ok with cooling then Project Mu take alot of beating. Otherwise I would go and spend large & get some Endless stuff. Delivery was only a few weeks ex Greenline. Price was (in Yen) Project Mu SCR Pro (Front) 324x30 8 slit type R32 GT-R V-Spec (Brembo) 1 60,638 60,638 Shipping: 22,900 Total: 83,538 Shipping was probably more expensive & a little slower for me because unlike most of the country I don't live in Sydney and/or Melbourne. They send you tracking info etc so you know where you stuff is at any one time. They are also available locally (Racer Industries) the brake bloke there is helpful & knows his stuff - just not sure of the price. Why don't you buy a pair of complete hats/rotors etc of whatever type & then also get a spare pair of rotors. Or better yet a complete set so your race day isn't ruined by a busted brake rotor. As for DBA I have reached the conclusion that the problem with them is mostly centred around the DBA4000 series & at that rotors for the R32 GT-R. Like Roy says the 5000's appear to be ok. But for my 10 cents worth seeing as its brakes we are talking about I would be looking for more than just ok.

According to the blurb here infront of me next months (May 2009) edition of Wheels will come with a bonus DVD about the R35 GTR. Apparently it is the same doco that was on Foxtel a little while back.

Absolutely. But I don't think you can get access to the $3k until after the car has been crushed. Same same for cars crushed under the Hoon law. Another HYPOTHETICAL QUESTION If Tata have just released the worlds cheapest car, selling for less than $3000 can I drive one of those from the dealership straight down to centrelink & then pocket the difference between $3k & the purchase price? http://www.abc.net.au/news/stories/2009/03...?section=justin

Depends if you can get that sort of alignment with one camber kit or it you need two. No. As per 2. The Whiteline kit can be adjusted on the car. Ask the compliance shops. They will be sure as it is part of their procedures.

You need to have a think about how much cooling you need for the rotors. The list varies alot in terms of how many internal cooling vanes the things have. From the least: DBA, Project Mu To NFI Biot, Apex. To the most Endless, Stoptech. Oh and Project Mu make a 2 piece for the R32 Gt-R. I have some Project Mus on my 32 (with Roys F40s & a 324 rotor). Comparing the Project Mu to the DBA gives a big tick to the mus on their metallurgy. I had far fewer problems with cracking, crazing etc with the Japanese stuff. Of the rest Endless is $$$'s, Stoptech distribution blows hot & cold (Sometimes it just blows but it may be good again). Can't comment on Biot or Apex. If you are not in a hurry try Greenline. Also if you are not in a hurry wait for the Aussie dollar to recover against the Yen. http://www.ozforex.com.au/cgi-bin/chartsFa...&period=Day

There is alot of nonsense around about semi slicks. From my experience I have formed the following opinions: Yes they are street legal. Good luck convincing the policeman who just pulled you over of that fact, however. They go not have a great deal of tread depth - added to which most cars will rapidly degrade the outside of the fronts - so what tread depth you have will not be legal for long. You can happily drive them on the road. I drive from Bunno to Wanneroo & back. R comps (proper ones, not Federals or Falkens) need heat to develop all of their available grip. None the less even when cold they will outperform most road tyres in the dry. They last a reasonable amount of time on the road. Certainly if you are running your car on the road & periodically on the track most of the tyre wear will occur on the track. On the upside however R comps last much longer than road tyres when driven on a track (unless you are a numpty on the track). Old R comps are just a waste of everyones time. You will not heat cyle tyres on the road - not unless you are being stupid. The down side of running R comps on the road are: They are noisy as hell. The tramline like a bitch. Their stiff sidewalls make the car uncomfortable over bumps etc. They pick up every little rock/stone/anything and fire it into your paintwork. You have to keep adjusting the pressures from track to road & back again. I am less than convinced they will be helpfull if there are puddles on the road. Do not put R comps on one end of your car & roadies on the other. That is just a recipe for having an accident.