djr81

Some people like to run wider rubber on the rear of their 33 GTS-T's. It doesn't do anything for the handling balance of the car & as Ant said you can't rotate them to balance wear on the tyres. Well to be fair I often don't know what I am talking about either. I can't fit wheels plus all the other shit I take to track days in my 32 & am not sure I like the idea of putting tyres on the back seat, least of all when some pillock in a Commodore runs into you. Although to be entirely accurate as there is often an overnight stay in Perth involved I usually take my fluffy bunny slippers which take up a lot of room.

Drivers side of the intercooler. There are two.

If anyone is interested the current issue of Australian Muscle Car (Brocks 1987 VL Commodore on the cover) has a good interview with Fred Gibson who, as usual has some amusing things to say.

In breaking news Mario Andretti has signed for Alfa Romeo.

Sorry to go postal, but this annoys the crap out of me. Late model 32's have the same (Exactly the same) oil pump drive & clutch as the 33's. As to bazr33. The 32 oil pump is quite ok. It is more prone to failure than the 33's, however. Whether or not you blame the size of the mating surfaces on the crank or simply the age of the oil pump itself is entirely up to you. I would never call it sh!thouse, but then I am not one of those people who gets surprised when an abused engine fails so maybe I just lack imagination.

They tell you different things. Most people are happy with a compression test, particularly if it is a stock engine as the allowable numbers are published by Nissan. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...est+compression

The thing to focus on with the dealer is the changeover price (on road). How it is broken up is completely irrelevent. Some yards will give you a good trade & pineapple you for the price of the new car. Some will give you a lousy trade & a cheap new car. All you should care about is the changeover price. Best option is to sell your car privately & then front the dealer with cash. The expression "look mate I have the money now & will buy it now if you can do a better deal" will always garner their interest. Particularly if it is nearing the end of a bad month/quarter. Ofcourse, you could always buy privately, too.

Yes. It is not really a conversion. There are minimal differences between the 32 & the 33 RB26, although the later engine is slightly better. Just have a good look & make sure the work has been done well. Depends. There are a number of different types of N1 turbos. Some are ordianry, some are very good indeed. You need to read the tag on the core of the turbos, then post thenumber for decyphering. Compression test. Leak down test. Pro: Motor is newer. Con: It may still be stuffed. Get the engine number.

SK, I tried to PM you but your inbox is full (has been for some time). Email didn't work either. Anyone have any suggestions as to how I can actually purchase this stuff?

I think you need to have a bit of a think about what changes need to be made to reach your target hp. Start point: A totally stock GT-R (maybe an exhaust) running 13# will give you over 300rwhp. From there you should look for the following. Cam gears. Different turbos. Good K&N filter. Power FC Boost controller. Now, depending on how hard you want to push your fuel & air metering systems your goal is in sight. IF you are worried about airflow, the power FC will easilly accept Nismo meters, or RB20 items, or Z32 items. Take your pick. If you are worried about the fuel some larger 550cc injectors will fix that. Check the forced induction section for a list of dyno results with attendent mods. There is much to learn there. Finally, you don't need cams. If you want to high flow your turbos I would suggest buying some second hand ones that way you can take your time getting it done & you car won't be off the road for however long it takes. Then just sell your stock turbos after everything is done.

Roy is selling his Whiteline kit. Price is good, the gear is good & it will fit your car as it is for an R32 GTS-T

I think you should be looking elsewhere for the cause of the lost boost. This is a useful thread which will explain much. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=181061&hl= Lastly, having seen the Nismo duct on a 34 I was suprised by how crappy it is. Nonetheless is its cross sectional area is larger than stock it will be plently big enough.

Gabe is right. Thing to note is that the hp figures quoted are based on the maximum possible airflow produced by the turbos & are flywheel horspower figures. They are also each. You can get approx 10 hp from 1 lb/min of airflow. Unfortunately the numbers are also bullshit because you never get to that side of the compressor map. Again unfortunately it is common for people to talk of the hp capacity of the turbos - that Japanese started it & I for one wish it would go away & the companies just publish their bloody compressor maps. Maps tell you things - like efficiency. A raw hp number tells younext to nothing.

nismoid is right. They turbos come in a number of flavours. Go to the www.turbobygarrett.com website. The different maps will show you how much hp they things can help the engine generate.

Get the lightest, widest rim you can afford. Don't run different sizes front and back. Don't buy Bob Jane sh!te or anything similar. Toyo & Bridgestone make very good track tyres. Yes, but they are usually well used. Useless, no. Less effective, yes. Yes. Some fit. Well it depends on what type. In a 2 door, no. In a 4 door - maybe.

If you are sufficiently concerned about it you can buy youself some second hand stock turbos off a car that has only ever run stock boost & with fewer kms. They can then be inspected/rebuilt/whatever to within an inch of their lives. Somewhat fortuitously I have some for sale... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=178971&hl=

Yes.

There are two completely different circumstances where castor will & will not help you. 1. You are one of those drift type people. In which case loads of castor is good. It gives you strong self aligning torque (for when you let go of the wheel) & more -ve camber at large amounts of lock. All of which is good. 2. You have a track car, or atleast want to do hillclimbs/club days etc. In this case caster is much less important & certainly not at the expense of camber. Simply put more castor gives you more camber when you turn the wheel. However if the car if handling well you wont use much more than about a quarter of a turn of steering lock. The amount of extra -ve camber castor generates at these angles is negligible - particularly is you have an R32 which only has anout 3 degrees castor to begin with.

Go with SK's recommendations. Ignore the shop. 4mm toe in on the thing will make it tramline like a bitch. I would suggest getting the camber kits too.

Well unless you want to reach a higher level of hp you are better off selecting the smaller of the two Garrett turbos. Have a look at the compressor maps (turbo by garrett website look up 707160-5 & 707160-7). Now whilst I am no great fan of the -7's efficiency if you want less than 400rwhp the -5 will be largely wasted in this application. Oh & get some decent dump pipes whilst you are about it. No reason not to. Lastly, going all out usually encompasses a little more than new turbos.

Has anyone out there had the boot lock removed & the hole blanked in their 2 door R32? If so what method do you recommed for filling the hole, eg weld in a plate etc...

SK, I am after some of these bits. What is the best way of getting in touch because your in box has been full for a week or so now...

Well the timing marks should be on the pulley at the front & bottom of the engine. There are usually six or so marks. Find out which is TDC & the number of degrees between them. This should be in the manual somewhere. The timing light needs its induction loop clipped to the feed to the #1 spark plug. High voltage is better, but a good light will work off the low voltage feed. You don't need half the shit Nissan say you do...

The pricing disparity is derived from the vastly different condition that you can find the cars in (from spotless to flogged out rubbish) & also the simple fact that it is quite easy to spend as much money on the modifications as on the car to begin with. A cheaper car will be older, have fewer quality modifications. It may or may not be in inferior condition. There may be other reasons like the owner may want it gone quickly and have priced the car accordingly. On one hand people don't want to pay too much & on the other get scared that the car is too cheap So price it reasonably, go to an effort to make your adverts read well & present the car well (ie clean, tidy, take some good photos etc). It also helps when responding to enquiries (regardless of how inane they may seem) to make the effort to compose well sorted replies & not use text abbreviation etc. But yeah, expect time wasters & spankers to make enquiries. That, unfortunately, is life.

is it possible to just advance the CAS anticlockwise Yes. and do it by ear until it pings No how safe is that Completely unsafe lol because i dont know anyone who has one of these controllers Go buy a timing light.