Bond

It's a good idea to clean out the Bolt holes with a tap as well. Could be some shit in there

So is al that included in the prices you posted up earlier? Hopefully everything goes well and it's running soon.

There is more to it then just machining the bores to fit new pistons! What are your bearing tolerances like or crank end play?

Why not just use the original? he is not chasing big power and this is meant to be kind of a budget build.

I have 550 DW although they do seem to flow a little less than that. Idles fine and get over 400km to a tank

My god you guys get excited pretty easy.

I can't believe a stock turbo would be so slow!! 10.5 is CRAP.

^^^^^More info

^^^ How did you do that??

In case anyone is interested my r33 was having overheating troubles and i thought it was my hub so i filled it up with silicon oil (bought from toyota) which makes it come on a bit earlier and keeps it on higher in the rev range. While my car was on the dyno trying to find out why it was 25kw down on power the operator suggested it may be my hub that sounds like its always on. Swapped it over to a non modified one and it made a whole 2rwkw extra! I'm happy to have the extra airflow minus 2kw!!

Very easily.....not in the way at all. You must have missed something or it was bolted up funny I don't see the point in this set up. Why not leave it just temp related. If you have enough airflow it will be cool enough and the fans wont come on anyway. How about if your tailing a car above 60 and getting no airflow....it will just overheat

Bump

Bump....Make an offer

What rad did you buy? Radiators are pretty simple in design so there must have been something seriously wrong to make it worse than the thinner OEM.

Well i took it for a spin today and now just driving around with the AC on it sits on 83 and giving it a hard time (30 degrees outside and ac on) it went to 88 briefly. Massive improvement but will be happier once i test it on a 35+ day.

Well i can see why some people may not be able to get it in as it is a tight fit and requires a bit of fiddling but with the clutch fan hub removed it went straight in and bolted up 100% with the shroud.

An old thread but i bought one of these today (the importer is my neighbour) and was surprised how thick it was. I could not fit it by just removing the OEM rad and shroud. Onc i removed the clutch fan it dropped straight in and bolted up fine. The temp sensor was also fine. So far so good. I think the quality may have improved as none of the welds looked dodge but only time will tell.

Many parts of Japan are not that cold and get quite warm....Very similar to parts of Victoria. Actually Tokyo and Osaka's summer is much warmer than Melbourne. I don't see how disconnecting would help at all. As soon as the oil temp was above the water temp then the factory oil warmer/cooler would start to cool the oil.

Can anyone comment on oil temps after they have installed a nice big radiator but no oil cooler? Surely having stable water temps never hitting 90 would give the factory oil cooler a better chance at doing its job.

What cheap alloy rad do you have?

Does the rb26 rad bolt straight up for an rb25 (r33)

If you delete the VCT does the extra capacity of the 3L make up for it?

If you delete the VCT does the extra capacity of the 3L make up for it?

^^^ That's what i was thinking. I just wonder about freight costs.

I would love a v8 in my 33. Please more people do the swap so i can buy one already done.