Birnie

Bonkers, Any reason you don't use The Hitman? Penrith isn't far from the mountains and he has a good rap, and decent prices.

There's a thread in the DIY section

Don't know if anyone's using a HDI but i was considering them at one stage. Thier turbo timer is seperate too don't forget. I passed on them though as some peeps have the older style electronic boost controllers by them and the solenoid didn't seem to be up to scratch, the ones with the 2 dials on the front whcih would sit over the ash tray in most examples. The newer ones (which i think looks pretty cool) uses the same solenoid at first glance so i passed.... But considering you have a PFC, you can get the FC Boost kit for $350 delivered Also Profec II for $370 and the list goes on......heaps cheap when ordering direct for Jap.

After 4 x 205/50/16 If it's 2 sets of 2 that's ok for front and back.

The 1st post of that link pretty much answers all your questions in that 1st paragraph. Who - the guy who posted Whether they made poer gains - look at the graph ! Which brand though, i don't think it matters too much, there was a group buy on Arospeed ones not long ago, i picked up 1 for $80. Once they are set in position, they don't really do anything, as long as they can hold that same pos they're ok. How and Why, just look at one and it sorta makes sense. it allows you to make adjustments on the position of the cam shaft forwards or back a certain degree. ie, letting axhaust gas out earlier or later during the revolution of the stroke. What do tuners do, undo the bolts on the cam, turn it fraction, do it back up. And as these are common cars, they would already know the optimum settings. Possibly a retune afterwards.

Guitars are very spefic items. My bro bought one from Aldi for $50, seriously, but he's a beginner so doesn't really matter. I paid $500 for one off ebay, some are worth $5000, depends what you want You need to add some details dude. Pics would be good, and as already said, a price.

No need for a fuel pump at 180. I made 194 with no probs, heaps of peeps make 200-ish but thats about it's limit. Also, for supporting mods for certain power goals.... The RB25 dyno thread (sticky in Forced Induction) is always a good place to start.....or whichever engine you have,

I finally figured out what you've been going on about with your r ugly poo ! Does that mean the 32 owners can call ours r stinky pee?

Well Silman, at least the Z32 is sorted Did you find when you swapped it over and started the engine, it was crap idle and needed an obvious retune, or was it still OK to drive just with more room to move on the verticle axis?

Pics here : http://people.aapt.net.au/~jason1973/Ebay/

Bumpski's

There is a fair bit of info about the GTRS if you look around. the best description I've heard is 'It has the response of a HKS2530 with the top end power of a HKS2540' HKS2530 - supposed ot have ripper spool up as it;s quite small so you can't argue with that, but the top end, boost would drop off off as it choked and can't cope or whatever. HKS2540 - Ripper top end but an absolute dog for lag etc.....only suitable for drags... So combine the 2 and you have the GTRS So, can we now keep this thread to be HKS2535 oriented? Thanks peeps....

Oh, and why are you gettin ganother one? Wouldn't you just rebuild the one you have? or is that what you mean?

Hey Strich9, Thats awesome ! About 255kws? Can you post up a dyno graph and list your supporting mods please? Thanks

GTRS does come in a T3 flange and is considered an awesome upgrade for an RB25

No

Interesting, I'm gong to try and ground the 'ground' wire to the chassis and see if that makes a difference. Doub;t it but worth a try.

Good work dude

Can someone please tell me what their AFM reading is at when on idle ????

2 bolts to undo on the actuator side, and a 'C' clip on the end where it attatches to the gate. Put on the R32 one in reverse order and that's it. It should be a straight swap out. No settings unless you have a boost controller or something to play with

..and, if peeps are looking at getting one, they are on nengun as a Tomei branded Z32 for $360 delivered. If i get a replacement, i think i will get that one. It's so much freeegan hassle to get around this and i don't wanna risk getting another dodge one. And that is possible as i don't think these other dodge ones were sold to rip people off, just the seller, even reputable sellers, didn't know about this bad batch ??? Anyway, just putting it out there as an option, bit more expensive but only $50 over the cheapest I've seen.

Also, I've been looking around at maybe getting a replacement or still hanging on to the fact that this one is OK and just set up wrong. I saw a unit on the Jap Auctions and looks as if the signal ground (guessing) has it's own 'C' clip that would bolt onto the body for grounding rather than going thru the ECU. Also, that wire was extra long on the Tomei plug which suggests it should be different and had the length to be wired into the chassis. Would this change the behaviour of the signal overall?

Let me know how you went. did you do it yourself? If not how much, if you did, how hard was it. Thanks...

If you didn't swap the wastgate actuators over, that could be it. and your settings were different bi 0.35bar which is right on 5psi R32 standard actuator is set to 10psi. R33 standard actuator is set to 5psi (....i think with the R33 boost solenoid tweaking it to 7psi over 4500) If that the case (which it looks like it is), spend 20mins swaping the old actuator back in

I ditched the old tube and used what came with the unit. So no restrictor at all. Also, pressure feed from the intercooler piping went into the 'NO' hole on the new solenoid, and continued out the 'COM' hole which went to the wastgate.