Birnie

Another vote for "they do what they are intended to do" I've had one and the only problem was a bit of gravel rash on the knees from installing the bugger. ..but considering I've owned/installed/removed and Power FC installed, i'd skip it even for minor mods and go straight to the FC. The mid range, even untuned, is amazing compared to standard

That's what I'm hoping. THE AFM reading has definatley dropped when on boost since fixing the leak. I'm now waiting to hear what other are getting.......anyone ??? If the AFM is not faulty (fingers crossed), I'm gunna have an extra one in a few weeks cause i already paid for another.... But it should sell close to what i paid for it so better off getting some money back than none. You're gunna stoop modifying? This is about the 1st real hiccup I've had and even though it's been frustrating, it's been interesting and a learning experience. Don't stop now !

That HKS manifold is sweet !!!! I want to touch it....hmmmmmm But all that work and a standard turbo ????

If you had it professionally tuned, give them a ring and see if they saved your settings

RB25 wastgate act. is 5psi, RB20 is 10psi Changing to the RB20 means the AVCR doesn't have to work as hard. That's the theory anyway, don't know if it makes any difference in the real world though. Just use whatever you have and go for it. If you wanna change actuators later, it's only a 5-10min job anyway ..so the answer is yes, you should get close to the same results with either

I think it's a good approx rule of thumb but that calculates engine HP. eg. standard 370's, 370HP = 275kws, now subtract about 50kws for drivetrainloss etc = 225rwkws ..which is about the most i would expect to see out of these little ones. Heaps of peeps get just over 200 before upgrading, so the 'rule' is close

Quick update guys, First of all, I'll just say (Borat style) I am a reeetard ! Ok, now that's out of the way. I've been a big DIY fan for 2 reasons, 1) $$$$ and 2) i plain want to know. Last time i did my sparkies, i pulled the intake pipe off which i think makes it 10 times easier, but noticed a week later i hadn;t even done up the return clamp for the BOV! No big deal really, just annoyed me cause i missed it. Fixed in 30secs. End of story. Today i thought i'd finally plug up the whole for the exhaust temp sensor drilled in the turbo. Off to Pirtek, got the plug, found out whas originally their was a grease nipple with the spring burnt out....LEAK ! (number 1) Fixed with w new plug...$4. sweet Went for a drive to see if it would spool quicker, no boost showing on the Power FC display but there is on my Blitz ??? Pull over, can hear the leak, the original vacuum tube for the original boost gauge whicvh i was using had cracked. Off to Super Cheap for some new tube. Leak fixed (number 2) for a total of $2.99.....double sweet. ....but hang on a second? What's that loose clamp there? I'd done it again but this time worse. The final large clamp that goes onto the throttle body was as loose as a goose, i ould fit my finger in the gap. There is no way it would have rattyled loose that much, i forgot to do it up when i changed my injectors Grrrrrrr ! That would be causing a MAJOR leak ! I still made 1.15 bar but it took awhile to get there and i always maxed the AFM. That's now tightened (leak 3) NOW! Is my AFM dodgey or not? (hopefully not) Boost is coming on quicker as it should after fixing 3 freeegan leaks. Now i get 4500 on the AFM when i hit 0.9bar, before it was maxed at 0.9bar which makes sense considering the extra air it would have had to push to make that pressure. Can other tell me what AFM reaading you ge on the Power FC at the approx same level? 0.9bar or 13psi (i think)...using a HKS2535. A high flow prolly gives similar readings. Anything you got, please post it up. Thanks peeps. Hopefully i've saved some cash here (after wasting some) but i'll still need another retune of course.

They can be removed/cleaned and tested which might solve some issues

If you want to email me the pics of everything, i can post em up for you (address in previous PMs)

Hey Whorebag, Might be intersted in the Splitfire cup. Gotta measure my gauge first though.

I got a Turbosmart manual bleeder. $50

Hey guys, i bought some plugs today for the sensor hole They are a copper colur and I'm not sure what they are made of but i told the Pirtek dude they were for exhaust. Are these things gunna handle the heat?

AFM sold !

I have a Series II plug if you need it. Sold my AFM and the guy doesn't need the plug Has some wire for soldering. Look here : http://people.aapt.net.au/~jason1973/Ebay/AFM%201.JPG

Any pics? Can it be adapted to an R33? Thanks...

.....and thanks for all that info Roy. I'm only familiar with the R33 and had no idea about those differences..Thanks

Yeah, I'm seeing 10psi from the manifold reading on an R33 using an RB20 actuator and Hybrid FMIC

Can you please specifiy what car you're talking about. I'm still not sure but with 12psi with no controller I'm guessing RB20 R33/32 both control boost with wastgate actuators, doesn't every car? (or external wastgates) Just that the actuators are set at different levels, 5psi-R33 and 10psi-R32, and the R33 uses a boost solenoid to get to 7psi. What are the completely different means you are talking about? I;m guessing that even thought the AVCR is off, it must be fiddling with the wastegate pressure reading to get you to 12psi. I still don't see how mods make you gain 2psi

260 a tank, so you're losing about $20-$30/tank Buy the ECU you have on the list and think of the money you're saving on fuel as paying it off. Stuff the SAFC, it may do what you want but don't bother. Looking at your list : RacingHart Type CR 18' Wheels - CAN WAIT Sydneykid Handling Kit - CAN WAIT Bigger Injectors - CAN WAIT Z32 AFM - CAN WAIT EMU Unit (Haltech or Apexi) **** Do It Now ****** Subtle Body Kit - CAN WAIT Respray in "Midnight Blue III" - CAN WAIT Rebuild with go faster bits - CAN WAIT Hello 450kms or more per tank and shit loads of power

Ok, interesting. I hit 10psi with a straight thru vacuum pipe. I know have the PowerFC boost kit so same solenoid. I'll turn mine off tonight on the way home and see what i get. It may be causing some sort of restriction even when off casuing the wastgate to miss out on some pressure, causing the boost to go up. Roy, are you talking about an RB20 actuator in your case?

I know that's what most people think but i still have my doubts. I believe that the mods will allow a high amount of air to flow with less restiction but if the wastgate sees over 10psi, it will open it up until it settles back on 10psi. I have a full 3inch zorst/pod/FMIC/POwer FC/HKS2535. When i swapped from standard turbo to the HKS2535 with an RB20 actuator, my boost gauge showed exactly 10psi when no boost controller was installed. How can it not when it's designed to open above that?

Nope, RB25 is 5psi standard with a boost solenoid that goes to 7psi. RB20 is definatly 10psi standard. I have one now on my upgraded turbo and it held 10psi exactly without a boost controller. Straight vacuum pipe from intake pressure to wastegate.

Your acuator is set to 10psi so you're not far off that. If you want to have a fiddle, get another piece of vacuum pipe and run it from the inlet piping straight to the actuator with not solenoid in between. Have another run and see what you get. That way you can tell what the 10psi actuator is giving you, without any disruption of airflow to it via the (even if off) boost solenoid.

And as far as the SAFC goes, i agree, don't bother. I've owned both the SAFC-II and the PowerFc The SAFC was a waste of money and time. It was intersting and a good learning experience but still i'd advise saving some extra cash and getting ANY full ECU

Welcome aboard and good luck with your new car. Nice choice No ECU-upgrade required for those mods. Boost on the stock ECU (if the same as the R33) is 5psi then after 4500rpm it goes to 7psi, and yes that is suppossed to happen on the standard ECU Gearbox will be fine for mods up to 300rwkws and beyond. Brakes are pretty good too. Easiest to change to slotted fronts and decent pads all 'round(Group Buy thread has slotted RDA rotors for really chep prices) Most common ECU is the APEXi Power FC I suggest you complete that exhasut and get it 3inch right thru from turbo. Get the ECU and tune it on about 12 psi. Nice powerfull 200rwkws pushing you back in the seat. Won't need a FMIC for that power on the R34, apparently the Side Mount on the 34 is really good.