Birnie

The standard turbo and injectors are your 2 bottle necks at the moment. You definately won't need the Z32 until you change turbos so save your $300 until then. But do get your car tuned as it is. Power FC with those mods should get you around the 200rwkws, not your 220 unless its a happy dyno. But if you forget the figure (i got 194) and take it for a spin after the tune, trust me, you'll be grinning from ear to ear

Couple of years ago i was HEAPS stressed out at work doing 12 hr shifts and i did 12 in a row (well out of 13 days) Decided to 'chill' at Nelsons Bay Some dick was doing 90 in the right lane going down Money Money bridge on the F3. Sat on his arse beeping the whole way, get the F^%$ outta my way and all that. Really, that was pathetic, 20km under in the fast lane On the way back after 3 days camping, was so relaxed and happy, girlfriends like "what are you doing?" Why? You've been 10kms under for ages...haha

Year 2004... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=36894&hl=

I thought i saw somewhere that the Hitman in Penrith was $250-$300ishh ??? for install and tune? Otherwise, put up a new thread entitiled "Case of beer for the person who installs my SAFC" and i mean that seriously I did that exact thing and got my front/dump put in for a case of Tooheys Extra Dry Also, when i sold my old SAFC, i installed it too for a case of Coldies..shoulda asked for Crownies It was a bit more stuffing around than i remembered, only casuse of the awkward position of the ECU.

I don't know all the ins and outs but the cheapest/easiest option would be high-flowing the gtst turbo and keeping it a single setup. I remember seeing a similar post years ago question the convert to 2 turbos on the 2.5, the response was that you may as well change the whole engine to the 2.6L, and if you're gunna do that, may as well sell and then buy a GTR

It'll only suffer when on the gas but the extra power is worth it. If your off throttle or on light throttle, it'll be in another part of the map and should be tuned for that accordingly. So, yeah petrol consumption can still be kept to a minimum if you wanna use it as a commuter for example. For fuel consumption, my 165rwkws tune = my 195rwkws tune = 240 rwkws tune...... when on light throttle I could always get close to, or on 500kms per 55-60 litres when commuting on the freeway. But the 240 used more than the 195, which used more than the 166 when on the gas

Agree with everything above. Just add that turning the boost down (you mentioned 5psi) can only go as low as what your actuator is set at, no lower. So if it's an R32, the actuator is a 10psi job, you can add a boost controller to go up to 50psi if you have all the supporting mods but you can't go lower than 10psi ....unless you change the actuator to an R33 job which is 5psi

They're not all used There is a DIY for the R33 that only uses 3 of those holes It might mention something about the R32 but not sure

Clean the AFM first becuase it's easier. Few bolts and clips, bit of spray cleaner and your done, worth doing anyway If that's the prob, you've saved yourself heaps of stuffing around. I'm sure there was a thread like this a few weeks ago and that's what fixed it. Good luck

Why would the actuator be activated when there is no load? If there's no load, there's no boost, actuator should stay shut the whole time even if you do rev it up Maybe your BOV is on it's way out? THat's where the Chhhh is generated

Good point. Been stung with a dud Z32 and i wouldn't even buy a replacement from Australia after that Got one delivered from Japan. Although, currently have a 2nd hand HKS 2535 which seems to be OK so far, fingers crossed. If it fails (well i guess it will eventually), prolly go the new GTRS as i'll already have all the supporting mods

install = 400 est (should be ZERO, check the DIY threads) injector install = 200 (again, should be ZERO for the same reason) Alot of peeps can do this themselves, and even those who can't......well, they probably can, just don't know it yet

That's a good suggestion! I'll remember that one. Also, can you just get some coat hanger or something and TIE the wastegate shut so that it always increases boost? (Same effect as removing the hose) I've only delt with 2 actuators before and i couldn't move either easily when removed. Sounds like the actuator is stuffed?..which would be good, cheap replacement

I understand what your getting at now. 2 water and 1 oil. The 4th is the kinked metal tube, that then has another rubber tube connecting back into the engine. Reminds me of TV-Happy Days when someone asked Richy Cunningham how many bases there are in baseball and he took ages to answer. Fonz and Ralph were thinking that's easy, 4. Richy took his time and answered 3 bases and 1 home plate and got it right

On that note, anyone know in terms of air volume, what the ratio is to intake air/output zorst ? I would be guessing at at least 1/5 or maybe even up to 1/10 ??

I think you're talking about air coming in, like thru the filter and FMIC etc before it goes in the engine....and comparing that too air coming out the exhasut. Intake pipe flow = outake zorst flow ??? DEFINATE NO .....What happens to the air inside the engine...it explodes ! So the volume it takes up is heaps more on the way out. Part of the reason why turbos actually work,. If the out was the same as the in, the turbo wouldn't spool enough to FORCE the air thru the intake. Make sense? PS, the 'Front Pipe' is the pipe coming off the turbo, or the dump pipe. I always get those 2 mixed up. Most common you might recognise is the front/dump pipe which is a single 'S' shaped pipe doing the job of 2 pipes

If 250-260 is your limit with no plans for further upgrades, like myself, S15 injectors are fine. Direct swap for RB25DET and rated around the 450cc.

$2304 from nengun delivered for the kit

I dont suppose your Series II is after a 97 model? If so, there's some freegan cheap Cams in the for sale section. Tomei Poncams for $600 ! I nearly went for em myself but it's just that bit extra cash i can't deal with right now, dealing with a new clutch and installation

If you can, may as well ask the tuner for a before and after print out and post up the results. Obviously with the power run but include the A/F ratios too

I've put a picture in my post (about 3 back) showing the instructions and a pic of the valve installed.

No, if it's hits the +7 on the dash/standard gauge, that's more like 14psi Its hould only go about half way for 7psi...so it's all good BTW, i got a 2nd hand Blitz mechanical gauge of ebay deliver for about $20 and it's sweet as !

You have chosen very well indeed ! (so jealous) All your mods will be a great match for this turbo too. Can't remember if you;ve done it but be prepared for a new clutch That's where i am with the 2535 and yours will be heaps better

Sorry, i mis-read your post. There's another thread that SK had which linked to this thread and he mentioned there that even though it's about twin setup, it's still relevant to the single setup. So yeah, heaps laggy but alot of punch up high. ..and considering the original post (in this thread) mentions a 'streetable' turbo application, lag certainly does not equal streetable.

Did you actually read it?