Birnie

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...mp;hl=fuel+pump

Altering AF ratios = Definate dyno tune (unless you have the wideband sensor as already stated) $200 isn't that bad a hit in the wallet so just do it and enjoy the experience It's fun to watch anyway and you can hit the tuner up for all sorts of questions if you have any while you're at it.

http://www.slidewizeimports.com/products/yahoolinksR33.html

2530 won't make 250 for sure but will better response and still go hard Search for 2530 and Robo someone has some good things to say. he got into the 12secs using that 2535 would be the better option though IMO Got my HKS2535 thru Slidewize Imports on these forums ...

Pretty sure its the heat shield that goes over the orange silicon hose. Search for a kit installed and you should see what i mean.

Raed thru this thread, particularly SydneyKids comments who has heaps of expereince with, well everything : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=25919

Voted 'No' Apparently laggy on the RB25 too. Sydneykid has bagged these turbos saying they are a mistake in the HKS lineup due to the lag. And looking at your 3rd option, search, most people are baging it out. There's a 2535 in the forsale section for $1250 which is much better option.

Apart from the plug, they are physically the same size in every way. A direct swap out for the R33 You can get the plug (Tomei) from JustJap or most other places. Mine bolted up to the Apexi Pod no probs. No adaptor

Yep, exactly what you said Although, even though it's straight forward, be prepared for some gravel rash on the knees...haha It's a bit fiddly and in a tough spot to work on.

Not at 250? I'm on 240 (well 239) and it doesn't go past cell 16 vertically. PLenty of room left

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...520&hl=afm* I'm boardering on 'smart arse' now..hehe Mind you, it does suck when trying to search for info on 3 letters Other DIY's in here that are AWESOME are on : 1) Fuel Pump replacement 2) Injector replacement 3) AFM replacement (Serires 1 and 2) 4) Turbo replacement 5) Brake rotor replacement I've used all of the above and I'm no mechanic. Spend a day in the DIY section and be amazed ! Sometimes you find a DIY that you weren't thinking of and just do it anyway cause it's easy.

2nd hand you can get the HKS 2535 that 1400r is trying to sell on page 1 of this thread Great turbo for around the 250rwkws mark If new, the HKS GT-RS is around $2300 (i think?) for a complete kit deilvered thru nengun/greenline etc...

When you check the instructions, you'll notice all the wires are only tapped into to get a reading from, like throttle postion, knock etc. Although, the one wire that has the Air/Fuel signal is the one getting altered so it's not just tapped into, you CUT it in an appropriate spot and route the signal thru the SAFC to fool the Nissan ECU. So get everything done, cut it and attatch the male female plugs supplied which is then supposed to be plugged, 1 end into the SAFC, and the other end out of the SAFC. But if you're not using it yet, just plug the female/male plugs you made up back into the original position, so that the wire and it's signal is unaltered (except for 2 plugs now in the middle) and not going thru the SAFC at all. Everything else will be fine and showing the other readings. The throttle pos sensor is the best BUT, as someone else said, there's somewhere in the menu to turn the maps off (which i didn't know) so just do that if you want. Have fun! Birnie

You can have it all prepared/installed as in have it clipped, femal/male plugs attatched and then plugged back into the original position. All powered up and running too. Then when ready to tune, just unplug that 1 wire and re-route the signal to go thru the SAFC unit. If you use the plugs supplied, no further soldering will be required to make the signal go thru the unit or back to the original position. It'll make sense when you are doing it, I'm crap at decribing it at 5am.

That would be heaps of freeway k's though. Best I've ever got was approx 650kms before the light came on but that was freeway driving to NelsonBay and back, with no pushing it. today i filled up about 50litres after 470kms commuting. PICS !!

Does anyone know what effect the CAMS have on fuel economy?

As already mentioned, save the $400 odd dollars and put it towards something else, and after those mods, an ECU should be top of the list. A bleeder did me and heaps of other people to reach a nice 200rwkws with a flat enough boost curve.

Here' my uninformed response I'm gunna guess that from the engine point of view, if your creating the same kws, that it doesn't make a difference to the lower/higher psi, except the fact that the air inlet temperature will be higher due the that littler turbo spinning faster and creating more heat. But if that turbo is built to handle it, like the GT-RS for 270rwkws, it would be fine. If your ultimate goal is 270 (or whatever) you are better getting the smallest turbo that will reach that limit so to reduce your lag. If you get a bigger one which runs a lower psi, you will have some lag issues and if you aren't planning on going any bigger, it's a bit of a waste of power potential.

You can by-pass the solenoid but it would be interesting to see someone keep it in the loop and run the 10psi and then up to 12psi after 4500rpm. 12psi should be OK on your turbo I don't think anyone's done it yet so give it a go, and if you don't like it, it'll take you 3 mins to swap the tubes around to by-pass it as you originally intended. Good luck

It's not the pounds, it's the power output you are running. I'll be running up to 18-20psi depending on how the turbo is performing and that'll be around the 250-rwkws As long as the turbo is up to it, it's ok. Some people have up to 300rwkws but i wouldn't recommend it. Robbo ( i think) had 22psi running thru his R33 using the HKS2535 and it ran fine. He's since upgraded and most likely got less psi with more power as the turbo can push more air. You should move the whole conversation from psi to "How much rwkws can my stock engine handle" ...or change it to "how much psi can my (specific) turbo handle" If it's standard turbo, 12psi is prolly a safe limit. 14psi would be ok too if you don't care how long it lasts but that's about it

Oh, and I'm talking about the HKS GT-RS kit

Yes it's available in the T3 and if you buy the kit, it will bolt on to your existing T3 flang and front/dump pipe (whichever it is) Comes with ALL lines gaskets, the works If you're familiar with what you are doing, a one day job easy. Why do people always think it's only T25?

PS.... here's my thread on some install tips : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t=0&start=0 If any mods are reading, that should probably be in the DIY section if you wanna shift it

Bought my FMIC of ebay. They actual core in 1 auction and the piping in another. All sweet But I'm sure there's crap out there too so the risk is yours.

Freeway driving should get you closer to 10L/100km Now dave, be honest now, did you search this time?