Birnie

Haha, i try my best

What are some of you other guys getting for an Air Flow reading with a working AFM on idle.... Standard or Z32......

The hose with the restrictor??? There is a clear filter if that's what you mean. I was gong to put that on the sensor hose but it doesn't fit....didn't use it at all. Anyway....some pics here : http://people.aapt.net.au/~jason1973/Skyline/

Hey mate, I've just installed one last week. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...3&hl=birnie The pictures aren't showing but i can repost em later when i get home for you. They show the wiring too which isn't too hard. Yeah, +ve pressure in bar -ve in mmhg That's the same as my mechanical Blitz boost gauge. Pressure might not have the same physical characteristics in negative pressure and therefor not messured in 'bar' as i believe even the PSI gauges have hhmg as -ve pressure, or vacuum (could be wrong, but once you've got complete vacuum ie space, you can't suck anymore out so it must be approaching a limit with the more vacuum reading you get, but pressure can keep increasing???) Birnie

Yes, that's what i meant. Airflow is 1080-1100 when on idle. If i rev it does go back to the same level. Is that a bit high? I wonder if I've soldered the wires incorecctly but i thought it wouldn't work at all if i did that. It's a series II so i had to share the 2 ground signals (from memory)

You were asking what it idles at.... about 1080 - 1100 depending on the engine temp

Where did you get that badge? Coool

So apart from all the 'fake' claims and dodgey stuff in this thread, it seems that it was just a bad batch of AFM's so it's no bodies fault really. The seller wouldn't have know etc... ? Am i right? ie...the sticker is not dodgey ? Mine actually works, it just maxes out, so i can drive and commute as usual thank god. Just that I've got a piece of crap that needs replacing and now i have to pay for another tune.

Better pic.....

Think I'm screwed aswell which is shame as it came from one of the SAU sponsors But wht can i do without a receipt. Shite The pic doesn't show the middle number, I'll check but I'm sure it's just the flash...

I'll stop posting in here and use the 190kw thread from now on. Try to keep everything in 1 place. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=165286

I remember that thread now,, smacks self on forehead.....

Hi peeps, I've just had a tune up with a HKS 2535,FMIC,injectors,pump and all the usuals including a brand new Z32 air flow meter. Problem is it maxed out on around 1bar !! We had the 3rd setting chosen in the FC settings, ie. 80mm diammeter VG30 Surely that's the right setting. Is there anything else we need to change? I've searched around and haven't found it yet. 1bar on hks2535??? surely that wouldn't max out the Z32 Any info appreciated Thanks..Birnie

Yes they are. Parts I've removed personally with upgrades. Fuel pump = perfect Injectors = perfect, a touch dirty (1 pintle snapped) AFM = a bit of build up there, must be something you can clean it with, worked perfectly though AFM - Now cleaned up, see pics in link

The R34 should be no different to the R33, if so it will be so marginal you won't care. Just read the R33 thread. The pics speak for themselves. Price on Tomei pump (Someone asked) was $340 deilvered from nengun and i suspect it's now cheaper as the dollar has gone higher. Good luck peeps.

OK, here's some pics. Solenoid is sitting on the same bracket as the original R33 solenoid using 2 zip ties for now. (It will be 2 nuts/bolts when i can get some the right size) That pic also shows the wiring to the original solenoid which was snipped and soldered back to the new solenoid. Pretty obvious in the pic plus you can see the purple tipped socket waiting to be plugged back in. Just for fun, i covered the APEXi sticker which states "BOOST CONTROL VALVE"...SIF ! And finally, the sensor mounted on the original sensor braket again. One bolt only on the left/bottom (a bit hard to see) but tightened up and it stays level. ..and you can see the leads going off into the corner for the usual feed down to the grommet near the accelerator pedal.

I must admit, got done for speeding years ago. They checked my bonnet which was OK. They were pretty cool, got fined but i deserved it and they could see i was being co-operative, and so were they. So i took the oportunity to ask em about my exhaust if it was too loud etc as i had no idea....they were.. no probs, rev it a few times and drop off.....no probs, not even close. ...and zen, I was, "hey check out my Rev Speed Meter, look what it does" Haha......so stupid when looking back, but they thought it was pretty funny

Series 1 only?! Mother *&^%er sheet tird beeep beep

I vote, replace with the R32 actuator, AND keep the solenoid. 10psi low revs and 12psi above 4500.. Seriously, that'd be awesome! Might be fuel cut issues though on standard ECU but it's worth a think Boost controllers.... For low boost (say 12 and under) i'd save the cash and get a bleeder. You can have my Turbosmart one for some small $$ and holds boost well enough. Fluctuates 1 psi across the range but really, does it matter? Noooo. So don't underestimate the bleeder. They work and are popular because they do work....and they're cheap. If you're replacing the clutch, only do it cause you have to, as in worn out. You won't need a super good one until heading over 200rwkws, so if the old one is OK, don't worry about it. I had 195 rwkws on a 3yr old standard clutch and have never had a problem. Probably older than 3 yrs old, it's the same clutch it had since the car was imported. Still going strong.

I've popped it in where i said. Removed the old sensor completely (easy as) And attatched it to that. It's only held on by one bolt but nice and secure and doesn;t look like it's going anywhere in a hurry. I used the standard pressure feed line from the old sensor too but as it was so small, i couldn't get the little filter on. I think it should be OK without it though, as the oldie didn't have one. Oh yeah, the cables were long enough to go down the driver side corner throught were most people feed their boost lines, and reach all the way along the inner wall to the Power FC. Not much left over but definaltly enough. Schweeeeet Also, i came with another loong cable which i didn't even use? What's with that? Has to hack 2 wires and re-solder but that was pretty easy Now to get tuned up...... exciting times for me ! All these new toys! I love popping the bonnet and going. "i did that...n that..n that etc" Such a show off, hehe (And that's when there's no one else to show....oops)

Yes, reasonably quiet, i can here it but only if the radio is off and standing still. Check the DIY threads, there's one there with heaps of pics and some of mine showing the unit. It is a DIRECT swap, slide one out, unclip 1 clip that goes on the new bracket and slide the newie back in. Easy.

Think I'll be disconnecting the standard boost sensor, removing it and putting it on that bracket. Perfect spot come to think of it

It's like banging your head against the wall isn't it Dale. So much for 's15 injectors, a popular upgrade' I now know of 2 peeps and another who is going to soon.

Haha, plop sounds soo funny.. Plop plopitty plop plop plop ROFL Bullplop's even better! I'm gunna use that from now on....

No you don't. I just installed a Tomei pump which is nearly identical. It's enough to push some serious power without a regulator, up to 300rwkws ?? i believe If you wanna save a bit of cash, 1) don't get the regulator 2) get the Tomei kit, i don't know but, they look the same and are rated the same and i wouln't be suprised if they ARE the same with a different branding. Tomei is a good brand and i think $50 cheaper.