Birnie

Does someone know what the Latency Setting is for, as in, what it affects in performance if you get the value incorrect? Are there dangers, loss of power, emmisions etc??? Reason I'm asking is I've just installed s15, 450cc injectors. I have them in and running perfectly but i can use 2 different setting on the Latency correction and to me, it seems to be exactly the same (Power FC settings) I've used : + 0.12 and - 0.06 Negative 0.06 i think is correct using the calculation method in the FC FAQ (thanks Paul!) but i also tried Positive 0.12 as someone more experienced than me already had these little babies in and running on that setting. Any info appreciated (......and if you're interested in s15 injectors and how they're going, there's another thread in here, probably 5-6 posts away about the info and install)

..and i didn't crack the plenum open. I used this DIY thread : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=140970

Hey Paul, Going buy the chart i linked on page 1 of this thread, they are definately 450cc at standard fuel pressure. 82.5 is resulted by calulating on 370/448 just to make it a smidgen on the safe side if anything is wrong. Otherwise it would be 370/448 giving 82.0 Probably much of a muchness really. Latency - I'll get back to you on that one. Both setting have the car starting first time and humming beutifully as if nothing had happenned and that using "positive 0.12" and "negative 0.06" I bought the newies with the pump for 25000 yen, about $300 at the time using Slide Auctions. And the other 4 were $250 from Aus delivered but hoping to sell the other 2 of them to someone and recoup some $$ If you're buying all of em 2nd hand, you should be able to swing it for around $350ish for 6 i reckon. Someone scored 8 for $400 on here! Lucky sod..... Jump on a SR20 site and search there. They pop up every week or so. Didn't end up cleaning them or flow testing! Haha. Spoke to one guy and he was a bit gun-ho and had the attitude of "F**K IT, just throw em in see what happens!" So i did. My old injectors are nearly 10 years old and haven't missed a beat...and they were HEAPS dirtier than the s15's when i pulled em out. The 2nd hand s15 were out of a 2001 model so thinking of it that way, only being 5-6years old, i was going to hold on to my $100. And really, how often do you hear of people on here with injector problems, i can't think of 1 ! But it probably happens. So far so good

Bakker - There's a tutorial on changing the rb20 turbo over to the RB25 . I'm sure it says everything is a straight swap out, ie use the same lines, except the elbow Don't need the turbo but I'll ask for everyone else sake cause they'll prolly ask... 1) Do you have elbow? 2) Location? Good luck with the sale

I've changed my settings to '- 0.06' from +0.12 and it seems to be exactly the same....on start up only though, haven't driven around on the new setting. Still wondering how much difference this setting is going to make...??? Anyone??

Hi, As stated above. Air Flow Meter - Made 194 rwkws @ psi with no issues. *** SOLD *** Not out of the car yet (gimme a week) but I'm sure it's all good. $60 ono (Includes 3 pin plug with a few inches of wire to play with) Standard Injectors, suit RB25 or SR20. You know, the purple ones, 370cc. Removed yesterday for bigger ones. O-rings look fine. $60 ono Fuel Pump - Still on bracket so would be a sinch to swap out if your old one died. Got the rubber tank seal too. $40 ono PICS HERE : http://people.aapt.net.au/~jason1973/Ebay/ Thanks..Birnie

I'll be swapping out my current SeriesII AFM for a Z32. Don't know what they're worth?? $100?

So you've entered -0.06? (negative) I've got + 0.12. I had calulated your result too, but Dale already had it working on his settings so i wasn't going to argue. Is you car running with these setting? I wonder what difference it makes in the long run? Anyone know? C'mon Nismoid!

OK, I've installed them yesterday. Took about 4 hours for completely out/replaced/and back in. Used DaleFZ1's settings of 82.5% and 0.12 latency. Crossed fingers and turned the key. It started as if nothing had changed! Was pretty excited Took it for a drive, all good. Gave it 2/3 boot and watched the knock, only hit 12 which is pretty much normal. Couple of piccies below. You can see 2 stained injectors and one clean injector in the rail. That's 2x2nd hand injectors and the start of 4xnew injectors.

If what you said there is true, get the Profec like someone else said. It's about $370 delivered from nengun. Very popular unit for a reason. If you have a Power FC, you can get the add on boost controller, again i paid $350 delivered from nengun. Probably a tad cheaper now as the Aus dollar climbs. You got all the other mods done as well? Zorst FMIC and all that jazz making a boost controller worth it? The manual bleeder aren't that bad if you aren't running much boost.

You suck Nismoid! 360! Sheeeet ! Go Guilt Toy

No offence Pauly, but seriously, was that your 1st turbo upgrade? I just did my own HKS direct fit job which would have been marginally harder than a GCG highflow direct swap out and man, what a headache. But only cause i couldn't source 1 particular $6 part! Held me off for over a week ! Haha. And mainly cause Pirtek didn't know thier own parts! Had a pic of it too and they still didn't know what it was. Thing it, it was a pic of a pirtek part ! Sheeet... Although the next time around it will be heaps easier as it won't be so 'new' to me.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=166212

Yeah, search around, I'm sure there was someone asking this exact question about 1 week ago, almost identical title. Anyway, check the Dyno thread like already suggested and remember R33 turbo upgrades = R34 turbo upgrades. Same same..... Cheap options are 2nd hand following : HKS2530 : make 1 bar fine - Robo's has a thread showing around 230rwkws and loved it (at the tme) HKS2535 : Probably more suited to RB25 as better top end, only slightly more lag. GCG highflow, i would say close to HKS2535, not sure which is better but so close it prolly doesn't matter. Cheap new : Slide highflow, heaps of peeps have em. Pricey new: HKS GT-RS - i won't one !! but $2300-400(?) for new but that's the whole kit delivered from Japan. great for 240-290 rwkws i believe and super quick spoonin' GCG highflow new, around $1750 exchange i think in the group buy section? Good luck.

I'f you buying a 2nd hand turbo off someone, mont likely they are upgrading and won't need the elbow. Make sure you ask for it and get it ! This will help by the way..... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...01&hl=turbo Dump pipe WILL be exactly the same.

The solenoid is used 2 different ways, it depends on the setup. Couple of things.... 1) 1st pic, the solenoid isn't used AT ALL and could be ripped out and chucked and that setup will still work as the manual-bleeder is doing the work. 2) In the standard R33 setup, the boost solenoid acts as a bleeder and bleeds off a bit off pressure when revs go over 4500 (i think). It bleeds off 2psi fooling the wastgate actuator to go from 5psi to 7psi. Make sense?..but doesn't mean it can't be used another way. 3) If you ARE using the Jaycar electronic setup, DON'T use the 1st pic. That's a definate. The Jaycar DOES use the standard solenoid as the boost controller and it isn't even hooked up in the first pic...That should be pretty obvious. I'd be leaning towrds the second pic but I don't understand how the Jaycar setup works and it is a bit fifferent from the Profec's and HKS's from what i can remember. Yes, re-read the 22pages or ask SydneyKid via PM

It's 2 pics for 2 setups. If using a bleeder boost controller, the 1st pic is right. If you're going to use the JAYCAR electronic kit, i think it's the second pic now. SyndeyKid is the master of this kit nd there's a thread that goes for 20+pages somewhere. I'd follow his advise to the T Good luck

busting my brains as I've seen that 2nd pic. I 'think' it's the setup for using the JayCar Boost control kit which using the standard solenoid as the boost solenoid. It's NOT what you want so yeah, as i said, ditch that pic.

Ditch the second pic... not sure whats' happening there. The 1st is showing the setup for a boost controller-bleeder type which are fine to use. Is that what you want to do? If you want the standard setup, read what's written by the original guy, and look at his arrows. If you want a bleeder, do what he has shown, as you can see, the solenoid is NO LONGER needed and the screw is just there to stop crap getting in.....the bleeder now does the job off the solenoid.

Hey guys, I've upgraded my fuel pump so this one isn't required. Nothing wrong with it at all. Runs perfect and quiet. I made 194rwkws on 12psi without an issue. Probably suit someone just wishing to replace a shagged pump rather than upgrading. (Better off with a GTR or BOSCHE etc if upgrading) Keeping that in mind, and the bracket etc...... Delivered for $65 or drop off/pickup $50, Gosford -> North Sydney (or in between) Piccies.... http://people.aapt.net.au/~jason1973/Skyli...nstall%2015.JPG One on the left obviously with the bracket in the pic. More pics in that directory but not necessarily of the pump. Feal free to browse around Basically you will have to remove the old, remove 1 spring-loaded clamp and put this one in it's place...EASY !

Went the SAFC after all hey? That's OK, so did I initially and there's nothing wrong with that. just don't pay too much for installation if you're getting someone else to do it. If you're on a budget, ask around on the forums and get someone to do it for you. When i sold my SAFC-II 2 years ago (?) i also installed it for the guy for a case of beer. Bit fiddley but not too hard. Good luck with it, and if you can, ask the tuner for a before and after printout and post it up.

Yep, that's the ones BCPR6ES i think is 'S' for standard and has a flat tip BCPR6E without the S has the V slot. I've used both and didn't find a single bit of difference. (maybe just a gimmick) Used to be fussy about the V, now i'll just buy either...ie, whatever is in stock for the shop I'm in. Cheers

Shiza.....

Well make 2 and send me one (Haven't even got the BOV yet)

You could also just buy one competely highflowed with the shop supplying the turbo, so you only have to send one way and sell the one you have second hand. I think you'll come out a few bucks ahead too once you pick up $300 odd.