Birnie

Group Buy section has some RDA's which should have all the answers you need and at a BETTER price.

Haven't left any of your original vacuum tubes unblocked? I'd check your tubing setup too to be sure. I installed my turbo (2535) yesterday with the most basic setup..... just the one tube going from the pressure source (nipple off the intake piping) straight to the actuator. No boost controller at all yet but will soon. Where are you dude? If not too far away we can compare setups. Working in North Sydney today

Confusing thread as you started on 1 topic and then edited the title to another....anyways... here's some pics from yours truly. Don't take the hole i made as the exact spot though, measure it up yourself and be sure it's right 50 times before cutting. Good luck..... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...110032&st=0

It's all in and running, my original post was a false alarm as there are NO leaks anywhere Took it for a spin, and like you said it's definatley laggier by a long shot. BUT....someone else said (in another thread somewhere) once you're tuned up and been driving around for a week, you forget about the laginess. Can't wait to tune and boost up....feels nice now but the potential is there and will be great Also, knock levels have dropped significantly which is fantastic Maybe just cause everything has been re-fitted nice and snug. And the original exhaust/turbo gasket was perished and dropped into 4 bits on removal which would have accounted for ALOT of engine noise which i could hear from the cabin.

Hey Limpus, Have a look at the photos at the bottom of this page. I had one made up too by Pirtek and trying to wiggle it in. I think that hose might be ok as i tested bending the piece i chopped off and i doubt it would have made that crack noise. If you get some heat wrap for your rubber hose you might be ok. They all seem to have rubber hose on em anyway in kit form. Mine had old rubber hose sliced off for an easy removal

Oh dear.... I;ve finally got all my lines sorted and going to clamp back onto the original water line that runs around the back of the engine. But i gave it a bit of a bend to get into position and heard a crack on the first support screw. I don't know if just the plastic cracked in the support bracket or if the metal pipe is stuffed. Anyway, I'd like to see what some other people did for running that shit of a hose aound the back. Has anyone replaced the whole line with something...and how? THanks guys. Birnie

'!=' = Not Equal (incase he isn't a computer programmer) haha, did i make things worse?

Well, if there's pinging, the ECU retards doesn't it? It has the sensors for that reason and i thought that's be the answer. Also, remember they self learn too..Mine had to re-learn for 10mins driving after changing the dump pipe. I thought i was screwed as it was behaving really bad! and then it all came together. Just get the Power FC before you waste any cash at the mechanics. That'll solve all your probs

You don't actually attatch it to the solenoid, you by-pass the solenoid altogether. Pretty sure the top pipe on the solenoid travels to a metal T-piece connected to a feed that goes from the intercooler piping down into the depths of the engine bay...well into the turbo/actuator. The boost controller you have takes the place of that that T-piece. Then block off the pipe that you removed that goes to the solenoid, never to be used again. The boost controller will then be doing the job of the solenoid.(controlling the pressure feed from the I/C pipe to the wastegate-actuator) Start with it screwed in, undo a few turns, drive....too low? undo a few more turns and repeat.

Never topped it up in 3 years. Been full to the point of overflowing the whole time. (if you're asking me that is)

Outta interest, do you guys change your values and the tune is still perfect with the bigger injectors...so WOT whenever or do you take it easy and just use it as a bandaid type fix....ie enough to get you to a tuner to get it sorted properly?

I used to have issues with idling even when warm. Commuting after an hour and at the lights and it would just drop and stall...or go up to 1200. Now have Power FC and hasn't happenned since. Dunno why. Also, there is an ACC (or AAC) valve cleaning thread in the DIY section. That controls your idle. Doesn't look like too much work so maybe give that a go

Got a pic or link to the boost controller?

The hose clamp isn't too hard to get to, still fiddley though. It's the second mounting bracket which was near impossible to get. Can't see, can only JUST feal it. I had my right hand shoved in from the turbo side and that hand felt the bolt and guiding the spanner to it which was in my left hand coming straight down from the top thru the 'vally' If you has no problems, you must be forgetting this bolt. The first one on the corner is a piece of P to get off. The second nearly sent me to the mental hospital and it will NOT be going back on.

Ol_mate, you're a legend. I don't know why the guy at my Pirtek store wouldn't think of that. If he had, i might've been able to put it on today. Damn it ! Thanks everyone! I've just got tate freeeeegan bolt out (2:15pm!!) Removed both heater hoses, moved the valley outta the way and still had heaps of probs. Now having trouble pinching the clamp and pulling on that hose..haha It never ends ! (stuck catchin the train for a few days now too...bugga)

Happy days ! http://www.project32.net/tutorials.php

Photos would be great ! So you didn;t need a lip on the end of the pipe with that gland thing?

Just hacksaw the metal pipe off, probably as close to the turbo as possible???? I guess I'm worried about metal filing getting in there and also, there would be no lip to stop the pipe coming off..(or would that not be a problem ? )

I;ve tried so many ways and i can;t see, nor can i get around there with my hands to find where the metal line meets the rubber hose. Crickey ! I need help!!!

Thanks guys, i actually found some yesterday. Have a good weekend

Hi, Got the car jacked up at the moment and I've bought some new studs from Nissan.... but i didn't think to ask how to remove them! Oops (my exhaust gasket is stuffed by the way, that's why I'm in there) None of them are busted, just wanna replace 'em while I'm in there. Do you just screw to bolts together and untwist or do you need a special tool? Thanks guys..

You gotta get on to Slidewize on these forums. One went awhile back in the Yahoo Jap Auctions with dump pipe and all fittings for 54,000 yen. It would have been about $1000 delivered or less !

Hey, When i got my Jap turbo, it had one of the rubber pipes cut off with half left behind. It had heat wrap around it like a metal sticky tape about 3-4cms wide. Where do you get this stuff? I've tried Autobahn and Repco, no good. Super Cheap Auto today....fingers crossed. Anyone else found any of this stuff? Thanks

On that note, I'give you $300 pickup if you can wait until March

Here ya go peeps. This is not my work but lucky i saved it. http://people.aapt.net.au/~jason1973/Skyli...e%20Removal.htm