Jezboosted

I can only help by possibly eliminating valve stem seals. Generally this issue shows up most on cold start as oil has had time to run down valves, past stem seals into chamber.

I can only sit back and be jelly. Great idea's and well thought out. Can't wait to see finished results etc.

Two minor things with second car. 1. Looks like the factory front strut bar got removed. They all come with them from what i recall. 2. Hopefully the aftermarket rear antenna can be removed without damaging the paint ( if not already damaged ). What is that antenna for do you know ? There is a cable you can buy to allow head decks to use the factory built in boot window antenna's. Looks very clean and you can determine the mods you want to do, not undoing mods already done to your disliking. Price is great too on the 2nd one so i think it's the winner !

I shove a folded old towel down below the oil filter and spread it out abit and it generally catches all the mess. Paper towel can be pretty slow at absorbing oil and it will run away easy. Can't help with the filter sizes though !

It's pretty rare to see a C34 towing an R34 Not sure why M35's didn't enter rallying or monster trucking. Excellent off road capabilites

Interesting comments because the website at nengun shows two bottles. Filter cleaner and Filter Oil. http://forums.sidc.co.uk/topic/160994-blitz-air-filter-instructions/ This guy asked pretty similar question, got told to use original oil / cleaner or KN oil / cleaner. Hope this helps

I've wiped skids on a leaf before I can send you some ?

If you're game enough you could use what you have I reckon. Red lines are obviously cut markers.

Wow you have been doing alot of thinking ! If i put those into simplicity + cost factor it would probably go in this order 1. Friends JJR test 2. Custom SupaDoopa intercooler (see attached) 3. Ford XR6T 4. HKS/Blitz My suggestion on a Custom intercooler would be a top/bottom tank style. End tanks could be made of 2.5"-3" tube pipe cut along on an angle.

Are you saying that above the number plate under the plastic horizontal piece there is no lever ? I just did what you have done (pushed latch in) and can pull on the latch with screwdriver as suggested and pull lever. So you can't open your boot if your remote fails ? Battery dead etc ?

By looking at all your previous mods, i would say you're more than capable of being able to drill and weld in nuts on the cooler piping and measure pressure before cooler and pressure drop after cooler with a boost gauge. I do think your intercooler could be at fault because the air has half the space to move through. It's essentialy pushing it through a intercooler half height but twice length.

Wow, for a part from a completely different brand of vehicle, it sure looks very snug and well suited. Great stuff. How do you find speedbumps now, driveways etc ? or do you just avoid them altogether

Thanks Ryan - I agree, they provide the perfect spot. The back sunroof gives such a massive shot. Too much interior though. I used a stripped down GPS suction cup mount and secured to the stock waterproof housing as per normal. About a month ago i finished making my air intake for the stagea. I had started part of it ages ago but never finished it completely. Temperature at the air filter is up to 6 degrees above ambient on the highway and up to 10 degrees above ambient when stopped and idling for 10mins. This is measured with a multimeter temp probe, the sensor infront of the air filter and also the M1 Yatala digital temp sign! The old SMIC deflector got a new lease of life to seal to the bonnet and shield around the air filter. Another thing I have done is used the original boost solenoid to control my bov. I wanted the choice of no bov (flutter), bov (sssschoooooo hks ssq) and something inbetween and random (flutflutschooo) ?? I have run the stock vacuum line from inlet plenum to solenoid, solenoid then goes to "T" piece at bov. 1 part of T goes to bov, the other has a short line with a tiny bee's dick bleed hole. Solenoid is controlled by a button on my gear stick RHS thumb operated. The solenod is normally closed and will not let vacuum see the bov (flutter) When i press the button on shift, the bov see's vacuum and a tiny bit is lost to bleed - but is necessary to allow the bov to close when the solenoid closes. Otherwise the solenoid closes with vacuum in the line holding bov open. The cool bit is it works.

love this little gopro. took a quick video test. Used my android phone to remote view and control. Settings are 1080p @ 30fps. Protune off, spot - on.

Boss kit came, gopro black came, steering wheel already here - giggity. This photo has been halfed in resolution.

Had to drive around forever to find this sign.

Hi I'm learning with this program but happy to try to help. Here is your fast info. TH1 means Dark Blue Pearl Paint GTR.17 means v-spec from what i've gathered in previous posts.

I run one of these on my head unit. Micro SD to USB adaptor. So neat and out of the way. Less likely to knock it and bust your usb input port. It barely sticks out lol. Neat job you did on the gauge intstall and surround. I received a red and yellow box today with the same two letters repeated. Wating on another box to arrive with HKB on it.

Hey you're welcome ! Glad it helped someone out.

Have you tried yet what I mentioned earlier about narrowing down which belt made the noise ? Get a plastic drink bottle and drill a small hole in the lid. Just do one belt/ pulley at a time and wait 20 seconds before trying next belt. You know the sound went away when you hosed the belts. How can this then be caused by PS fluid ? ones internal, the other is external. Did you twist the belts and see how far they twisted ?

I haven't seen this part before. Just got fast running on 64bit windows 7 so I am digging around

I am not sure if I misunderstand you. Are you saying that it won't work for you ? It's 32 and 64bit compatible incase you thought it was only 64bit. Sorry if I misunderstood. It's the sad smiley that has me all confused

Sweet, It works. It's the US version so i didn't use any of their files, I just used the A1 A2 A3 B1 B2 files that came in the old fast. Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeet

Hah yeah I saw another Stagea member post it in the stag section and he got directed to here so I thought, why not ! I had trouble with fast before as I run win764bit. Now have just found fast 2010 64bit compatible here - http://club-s12.org/retro4/index.php?topic=32213.0 download will be finished in 4 mins Thanks for the quick response!