T0nyGTSt

Those two GT-R's are weird. The white one is a bit 'hows your father' in execution but it's not my car. The blue LM seems odd in that it was stolen, rebuild and it looks like it was modded a bit. Why would you even mod a LM? That kind of car should be left dead stock and perhaps only bolt on accessories added. To mod it like that is ruining the significance of the car. T.

So is this possible by the end of the month? T.

So who the fark is coming? Please reply by COB 25th Wed. T.

Surely with HKS manifolds, HKS 2530's and HKS dumps, everything should line up like a Lego set? T.

LOL @ Steve. Here's a checklist: 1. STOP DRIVING THE PHUQQIN' CAR!!! You've probably screwed up heaps of stuff. You're beating Brendan for sheer effort (!!!) You've probably carked the head, valves, rods, pistons and if you're terribly unlucky, the turbo. 2. You either need a half cut motor or a full rebuild -> tow it to the shop of your choice. 3. Pay up heaps of $$$ T.

Bumper issue for Skyline and Nissan fans. On the cover is TWO r33 GT-R's... an LM and a modded V-Spec. A widebody 200sx. A 350z vs. 240z retrospective. A writeup on cams although I find their 'street ratings' a bit odd. A Gran Turismo 4 preview. It seems that HPI and Speed are the two mags that cater for us T.

I just got a call but it seems like next Tues/Wed is the big Skyline tint toast off! Maybe some before and after pix? Who's up for it? T.

Very rice What was the original colour? And what exhaust manifolds are they? T.

Lot of top spec stuff - ended up 292rwkW and 11.9 on the quarter. I seem to remeber the whole theme was to keep it stock looking as possible. XTR '3040' equivalent on a custom low mount manifold - the only thing out of place was the Apex pod. There were a couple of snags like the 480cc injectors (largest on the Neo). I still see the car on Silverwater Rd. every so often but it's a shadow of its former self. T.

Any of you guys wanna tune my AVC-R? ROy, Frank??? I'm just eff'ing around with mine up 'til now AVC-R only has two settings though. Looks a bit 'primitive' against 5 or more from the others. T.

AVS Model 5? If you're going Buddy Club P1 (great choice) go the bronze. Looks great on silver. T.

Also what would be the upper power limit on these clutches? T.

I always wondered whether this whole process should be checklisted like the SEVs/RAWs compliancing. ie. replace fuel filler neck - check recplace tyres - check Because what happens at a dyno tune at one workshop will not match another. I wonder about a few things. Like do you run with or without silencer? Do you run 1.5bar high boost and is that fine for the whole boost range? ie. is that relevant if you run only 0.5 bar for everyday? Or is there one run for high and one for low? Do you test for cold start? Idle performance with aircon? I wonder if a checklist for the typical car here is warranted? Typical being PowerFC, maybe mix in a z32, fuel pump, big turbo, EBC etc. T.

Young idiots want the badges to stick on their homework folders and wear around their necks like a buncha Flavor Flav wannabees. T.

I thinK NFS Underground has farked me up for good because I can't seem to recognise car styling pieces any more. Is it a Trust type bar??? NFI T.

It's an '89??? And ones in Aust. are generally '92+ I'd imagine that even a tatty '89 could be turned into an absolute stunner with as little as say... $15,000 T.

The ECU is a steel box with the boards inside. As long as the car is off, it's perfectly safe to pull out and have a look. I'd advise against opening it unless you're at least competant with say building a standard desktop computer or have used a soldering iron before. Be advised that a dead ECU = a dead car (until you can get a 'new' ECU from the wreckers etc.) The story is that the Japanese might bring their car to a famous shop (Mines, HKS etc.) They want a certain number of mods at the price. They can choose a fully programmable computer like my PowerFC. Or they can choose a CPU like an R32 type unit which is rewritable. Or they stick with the R33 unit and their electrical engineers modify the ECU to control the mods that they fit. The bad thing is that you can only bring the ECU back to the original shop for adjust (obviously we can't do that in Aust.) - so if you have an ECU which is a 'fixed' program like the ECU's written for Japanese 100+ RON unleaded petrol, well they are useless in Australia. T.

50 - 75psi on cylinder six only means one thing. Do a wet test as well, maybe from a professional but it obviously looks expensive from here on in. T.

It's hard to say. I've seen CPU's with the obvious 'Mines' or some sticker on it and it's obviously chipped. Others you might have to open up and seem if it looks like it's been soldered up backyard style. Others even might have the whole circuit system covered in resin to avoid tampering! T.

Well it's like this... 4,000rpm is great for urban scooting. You're already well into the turbo, fuel is ok, you're up to 50-60km/h in mere seconds. Mr. VN Commodore is still messing with his torque converter. 5,000rpm is good for higher speed runs say merging speeds in hwy. ramps. Do you want that semi trailer to just disappear? No problem. 6,000rpm is getting serious - you're WELL over the speed limit, the car is into the power band, everyone around you knows to just stay away, they all move out of the right lane because something VERY FAST is coming thru. Fuel consumption is out the window. 7,000rpm is WSID drag strip or 'da runs bro'... T.

I honestly don't see a problem with this. If you don't feel or hear your car doing 7,000rpm you shouldn't be driving. T.

If you can find a Japanese Geisha style club, that would just about combine all elements! T.

Earls in Silverwater. Maybe a coupla hundred for parts and fitting. T.

Yes because audience participation w/ whipped cream and ping pongs balls is always a highlight! T.

NVH goes up. I like those gas struts on the right side that stops the motor from twisting too much. T.