sav man

they came up well, i found the key was to tighten the buggery out of the pipe holder, otherwise the pipe slips when you do the first part of the flare.

The booster does create alot of resistance when there is no vacume. I was surprised when i pulled it appart, how tight all the moving parts were. I don't see much point in doing it to a road car.

We have made an adaptor plate to fit a RB26 setup, so RB26 'injector plate' (manifold) through to plenum. damo's is on a RB25DE+T, and mine is going on a RB20DET. When we were researching it all I read your thread, your using toyota throttles arn't you?

Got my abs hubs back from getting the bearings replaced. old ones needed a 60t press to get them out (after they were tried in a 12t, then a 30t) Roy: i was given the advice to put anti seize on all the brake fittings, from the local hydrolic place, as it stops you rounding them. I rounded the rear fitting in my gtr, and dremmeled it down to a 9mm head

i'm keeping the double flared lines, just making them myself. I've never had a problem in the past with them, what have yours done?

master cylinder is 1/2 mounted, just need to drill and tap the holes for the studs. Some new brake lines run Some lines to the abs unit, need to tidy them up before they are flared.

yep the ITB RB25 has awsome responce. ran out of time, fuel, and laptop batterys to tune it properly last night. Can't wait to see what my ITB RB20 runs like

he already has a gtst you sick of ripping skids rob?

www.my105.com there has been a few race rally only gt-r's on there. Anything with a cage your going to pay for, probably much cheaper to find one with a blown engine, and put a cage in it. Remember to look very closly for rust all the way along the rails, quite often they are coated in tar to hide the rust

I was looking at the states, was quoted $200 USD for postage though. My local tuner is a Haltech distorbuter, so I got it through him. A few tuning companies are onselling the IQ3 now, i know Tomie are selling them (at a 11ty% price hike)

i've got a haltech/racepak dash. waiting to put it in the car atm. the racetek site has a price list which is pretty good. $375 USD for the Autronic modual $1395 USD for the logger dash $175 USD for UMD $1945 USD total or $2242AUD + postage. i'm not not sure if the Haltech vnet module will work with the Autronic, i don't see why it wouldn't, as they both run the CAN interface, but might as well contact a Haltech dealer and find out, cause i think they are slitly cheaper from Haltech ATM.

great dissapointment that it was the guy with his top off and not the girls.

The removal of the booster was under Ben's advice, and it's just one less thing to go wrong. If a one way valvle fails, your assisted bedal can turn into a 16psi pedal stopper. The ABS is a commo unit (Bosh), the R32 gtr abs is bad enough, i can't imagine what the gtst one is like. i've seen alot of people mount them on the passengers side, which i thought is pretty dumb, considering the piping hot exhaust runs right under it (which is where the lines would go with a nav in the car)

you get a deal? listed as $899 on just jap + postage http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=273&page=2

i read somewhere on the weekend, that the croud that bought all the toyota crap want to run this year, and are waiting for campos to fail, and Burnie want's them to run

That's Paradise (ironicly ) Merslylea was awful this year, the road was like that for the last 2-3 kw from memory. And pissing counsels off is by far the biggest issue from corner cutting, as the rally can't run if the counsels don't let it. They don't like paying lots of people to lean on shovels after the event

i forgot to bring my camera, so i had to use my phone.

original place, just higher up

More updates, adaptor plate is 95% done. Test fitting: I got two bars out of the brake booster, and cut and shut them to work without a booster. just need to get a sleave to go over it, to double make sure it's not going to brake. Alloy block to replace the booster, just need to find the new mounting point for the master cyinder, after changing the pedal ratio. ABS unit mounted: