BstewyR33

using bendix ultimates at the moment for street use only. pretty good at pulling up, a little bit of a squeel 1st thing of a morning with surface rust, and a little bit of a squeel at the end of a long drive (up highway for instance) but in between not much noise at all. about a 7-8 /10

you could get it detailed - might as well get your whole car done as well to make it worth while. or hire a wet/dry vac and do it yourself dont know how well those these work but you could try moisture packs (you know the powder stuff in a container that is meant to suck up the moisture from carpets if you leave the lid off). once again, prob not good enough to completely get rid of it all but worth a shot i guess

^ at a guess - the principle is the same. you'd just need to make sure the insides are the same as the write up i guess, have a look behind your glove box to see if it matches the OP's tutorial kel*bel - could be, just keep an eye on your coolant levels to make sure your not loosing any, if it runs fine i wouldnt stress about it too much

depending on what model you car is master cylinder - located infront of driver side (dont mistake for brake master cylinder - refer to owners manual) http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/ni...issan-p-62.html slave cylinder - located under car along side the transmission http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/ni...33r34-p-59.html shop around for prices

this link should help http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=292831 not really a how to, more of a what can and can't go in what type of car

wont be a problem bypassing the heatercore (as many people do this untill they can fix the core itself), you don't need to take the gas out to bypass the heating core as its just the fluid from your radiator the only problem with this is that it makes your car really cold instead of comfortable cold (but since you live in a warmer place than me obviously - go for gold ) usually just a pipe with some hose clamps on both hoses not sure what you could use to plug the holes, maybe get some gromets if you can find any - similar to the ones near the pedals on the firewall. try and cut the pipes close to the firewall (if your not going to take the heatercore out) and plug them that way

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Le...br-t281456.html hit that fella up

i use to get it in my 180. once had a short wheel based pajero with some turbo diesel engine in it that thought he'd give me a run, i got the shits with him after he kept flying off at every set of lights,let them have 1st gear then catch up to him by 2nd gear then hold 2nd while he continued to wind out his gears but in the R33 don't see to have too many apart from the occassional tool i've learnt not to pay too care too much about other cars at lights these days

at a quick search, ralliart use them on their evo's i'd suggest calling up a ralliart dealer and asking them for their supplier but then again, they might get theirs from overseas as well. sorry couldnt have helped more

Dump/frount pipes $500.00 - dump pipe & front pipe is easy enough to install yourself (if you're a DIY kinda person) plus you should be able to pick up a 3" dump/front pipe combo for around 250+delivery Intercooler (tust) $1200.00 - not too sure on how much trust coolers go for, but you should be looking at no more than about 200-350 labour for the mechanic to install a intercooler. Turbo timer $198.00 - don't bother Boost controller $590.00 - can't help you with that one

shouldnt be any differences. some people mention that one is better than the other, put either or in your car, as long as your not getting any pinging, then i wouldnt worry about which brand of fuel you get, just as long as it's 98ron at a minimum

i wouldnt say they are that bad, but they certainly aren't that good either. what shits me is the quality of the prep work, we've all seen how a new road is being laid down, then a few weeks later one pot hole, then another then another etc etc etc then you get crews going along with those tar guns fillings in the cracks along the road, causing ruts in the road for water to pull in.. all because the ground underneath wasn't compacted as it should be, or the right topcoat wasn't put down. all so the higher powers that be can save a buck or 2

my R33 just started doing it too, clutch in noise, engage gear noise goes away not looking forward to sending it to a shop going by your comments (500+ for labour)

i wouldn't upgrade new brakes just for the sake of it looking "good"., there'd be nothing wrong with painting your callipers now.

wrong section buddy

Hey, i got the VHT stuff, only cuz i spent about a week trying to track down a supplier of duplicolour metalcast (only to walk into a local supercheap to find out they had it after i already brought the vht stuff) http://www.vhtpaint.com/anodized.html the blue anodized + the silver under coat got mine from autobarn caboolture

thought i'd add my shots i just did today. anodized blue going to make the nissan white once the blue has cured long enough

true about coilovers being pricey, but you can still get street ridable coilovers (they arent just for track) all depends on the spring rate/tube design say you spend 300 on springs (if you can find king springs), + the labour to fit them might take it up somewhere around 600-700 (not sure on what sydney prices are for labour) then once your struts have a blow out & the other associated problems that go along with it, then replace your struts & fix those associated problems.. you're up near the 1000-1500 mark (labour inclusive) to give you an idea - i was quoted 1200-1300 for king springs (30mm) & new struts fitted, for something that would have been a medioca ride, the same place suggested a set of coilovers they would do for 1600-1700 fitted - this is on a 4 door R33, basically told them i wanted the ride as comfortable as possible while still being able to drop the car and not have it bottom out over every shit peice of road up here in brisbane

eventually thats why if u went coilovers, both strut & springs are designed for that sort of punishment, stock suspension is designed for pure stock standards (as far as ride height goes) when you go lowering it, like whats said above, you'll be having all sorts of problems just go coilovers

http://www.fulcrumsuspensions.com.au/tein....0Coil%20Springs but if your trying to drop down that far, why dont you get coilovers? i dare say you'll end up farking your struts lowering that much on the street

my bad, i was looking at the normal coil spring catalogue - sorry

page 19, Nissan skyline R32 - KDFL-101 fronts & KDRL-102 rear not sure why its comming up as not having any or as i said in my previous post, speak to a mechanic and see what they can get

http://www.modyourcar.com.au/king-springs--pair-p3868 or take it to a mechanic and get them to lower it for you

hey mate, not a P plater (loooonnggggg past those days ) but i thought i'd throw my 2 cents in Just Car is prob the only place worth going through till you get old enough to shop around (even then when you're 25 insurance will still a case of bend over and lube up cuz it's aiming for penetration) a little over 2g's isnt too bad for a 17 yr old, yes it sux for you but, atleast if you were to go full comp, your covered regardless of who's at fault. althought 3rd party is fine, its the added benefit of having full comp that if you did f**k up and hit something/someone else, you're still covered. with 3rd party you'll be hoping its someone elses fault. i wouldnt bother going with nrma,ammi, suncorp etc etc, they'll just be out to make you pay big time for your insurance then pay big time for a claim. just to give you an idea, I'm with Just Car, 26 yrs old and i pay around 1200 a yr full comp (so even after X amount of yrs holding a rating 1, its only slightly discounted by my age) but thats for a R33 turbo. the good thing about Just Car now is those premium adjust, i only pay about 400-500 a yr, but if i make a claim then i get reamed (1500 excess) so although it's good to shop around for car insurance, I'd say stick with JustCar as they'd prob be the cheapest for you (full comp wise anyways) Good Luck

where'd you guy buy your paint from? i'm finding up here in brissie supercheap only sell the touch up pens. or they own crap brand. and autobarn dont