scotty nm35

The manifold is finished, currently sandblasting it ready for paint.

Exacrey, although not very good on fuel due to their weight. I still remember the eMsta name Matt.

Because he only comes around here every so often to work on it. Where is the build thread Paul? Cmon mate...

Get the injectors flow tested, I have seen so many sets lately blocked with black gunk... You will be chasing your tail until you know they are all flowing fine. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge also?

^^ Looks good, but needs a turbo sticking out of the grille like Platts.

How long would a 2L surge tank last if the main tank pumps are sucking dry around corners? Not long was my theory. A surge tank needs to stay full, and my stupid saddlebag main fuel tank arrangement surges at 3/4 at the track. 19L would give me extra range on the road in a pinch also. As for the return, I am using the 6an top breather fitting to take it back to the main tank. Should be enough considering the fuel rails return to the main tank. If it balloons I will make a sturdy alloy tank.

It was for my 19L poly surge tank, as long as the poly tank is completely full I won't need any foam or baffling. I just need to keep the twin Walbro's in the main tank for it to not empty, as the Fuelab is running 10an lines. I ended up buying a Jaz brand tank.

No foam is e85 safe in the long term, I couldn't find a brand willing to say their foam would last for more than a year or so for my setup.

Why would an air leak that bad stop just from resting your hand on the plenum though? Have you called the manufacturer? They would have had many worried calls about it over the years I am sure.

No sh1t you need a filter , but how many systems run a 10 micron paper element capable of 2000hp flow. Like I said, if you don't run their (expensive) filter, or a 10 micron equivalent paper one, they won't cover the warranty so I am told, which is fair enough as I have seen many injectors clogged from e85 use recently. Are you going to let me quote you for the set Michael? I get damn good pricing, but there isn't much margin on these from the wholesaler.

At over 3 times the price of the Xspurts I sell, no-one has ever bought a set of Moran injectors off me. The Xspurts do the same job for much less, and I don't hear of many 2000+hp builds needing 5000cc injectors. The Moran's are rebuildable though, (unlike the Xspurts which have filters that can't even be cleaned) so over the long term they can be a smart investment. Keep in mind, if you use Moran injectors you need to use their 10 micron filter, or they won't cover the warranty.

Are you using the correct matching r34 disks to the calipers?

It's not a theory, my trans has been in limp mode many times. It gets locked in 4th when it overheats/faults. I would say you had an issue with the temp sensors in the gearbox, but only a Consult unit can read it properly to prove the fault.

Practicality over shiny Dave. It will flow more than a Micra engine will that's for sure.

You need to teach her where the kitchen is. Paul. She is fit to burst, give her a break, and that Mcdonalds thickshake. haha.

Micra manifold is finished Dave, just need to sandblast it and hit it with some high temp black stealth in a can. When Platts is excited he reminds me of Mr Bean. The car will suit him.

And now the cheap turbo starts costing you more than the Hypergear. Lesson learned. My suggestion, buy some tools and learn for yourself. It's not that hard.

I am always getting cars delivered on trailers and flat beds. Pretty obvious you can't drive a car with no exhaust to a fabricators workshop. I am sure they will be fine with it, I just hope they know what they are doing with your exhaust... Do they use mig on the car or tig on the bench? Do they clean up the inside with a die grinder, or just mig it on the car and she'll be right? The inside of that exhaust is critical to flow, it needs to be perfect internally to make the power and I haven't seen many exhaust shops able to do the job properly.

All bosch 2000's are actually 2200's, even more at decent pressure, not that the Bosch 044's will supply that much. I would be running a large PWM speed controlled pump personally. Quieter, higher pressure and draws less current. The EV14 2000's are not a petrol injector, they are Natural gas injectors. Not sure how long they will last on ethanol, I would instead go for the new 1400cc stainless ethanol/methanol injectors just released, or Moran all the way if you have the coin.

I had the same noise on a customers car, I think it's just because the metal top is so thin. Pressure test it to be sure.

Either a gasket is leaking, or the turbine housing is damaged and the blades are rubbing. Both could easily be caused by a hard hit to the muffler.

Every time you re-start the car it returns to normal operation, as long as the reason for the fault is gone. Sounds like an overheated transmission fluid fault. You may want to get it looked at sooner rather than later, it's not like we are in summer anymore, so if it's overheating you may have other issues.

Don't get me wrong, I didn't suggest the crank sensor is faulty, but if it still won't start with it disconnected, then a cam sensor is most likely faulty. Disconnect the crank sensor and turn it over just to see how it goes.

So have you tried a 10w40 Nate? It probably won't bleed down as quick. What oil filter are you using? The cams may be making it worse due to the extra lift, it is probably just the top tensioners bleeding off overnight.

Can be cam sensors, which are more important than crank sensors when it comes to the engine starting. Have you tried unplugging the crank sensor? It should still start if the cam sensors are ok. Probably best you get it on a Consult 3 if possible, just to check for logged fault codes, before swapping out good sensors.