scotty nm35

ID 1000's. Pft. Xspurt 1400's are where its at these days.

Kogan. 40 inch LED $299.

I noticed the same thing going from Liqui Moly 10w40 to 10w60, I think the extra pressure causes the oil to heat quicker... or something. I will be going back to a 10w40 next change as 100psi oil pressure cruising at 2500 revs seems excessive. lol.

My emo7 had a 10.5, unless it had been changed at some stage? I doubt it, as the car was stock as a rock.

I make the sleeves, but that won't help you run the 33/34 rears on your M35, they have a different spacing and won't fit without an adapter bracket. Either just run the fronts, with the stock rears, or find some 350z Brembo rears, as they bolt on.

Garret have a great range for the GT30's now, here are a few new external ones I saw recently... Do it Artz.

Exactly what I do, but not on the dump gasket.

You will need to get some spacers for the bolts, as they are 12mm not 14mm. Yep, just remove the restrictor/flange.

Agreed, I generally hate welding mild crap, but this is a stainless one. This looks like an interesting job, and stock looking power mods are always good.

No, you need to pressure test the piping, can you make a bung to fit the intake and get some pressure into it? 20psi works well if it will hold it. Perhaps I should start making them, or hire my boost leak tester out... I will call Craig and speak to him about it when I get a chance.

What afm, one of mine, or a Nissan one? Did you check for boost leaks by pressurizing the intake as I suggested?

Cihan can print dyno sheets, when the printer has paper. It's not hard to check for boost leaks, unless you want it done remotely... Drop down mate.

No-one said Springy Motors were the smartest workshop of the bunch...

You have another fabricator I assume Dave? I don't remember that conversation. lol. I'm sure I could sort out something Artz worthy though. The stainless body Xspurt 1400's are released now, do you want me to buy you a set mate? You can't be driving around on petrol still...

Most fabrication supplies shops, motorsport suppliers, even Autobarn can get Proflow/aeroflow gear. Failing that, Egay?

No tuner will fit the SAFC these days, unless he just wants to just take all your money. Seriously, just buy an Adaptronic. The ECU is a critical piece of the tuning puzzle, it's all that's stopping you from melting pistons. If you can't afford a decent ECU you really need to ask yourself if you should be modifying it at all.

Believe me, if you can get a stronger spring on the gate the manifold will hold more pressure, meaning the turbo will spin faster and create more boost. This will usually make more power and always add torque. More preload on the actuator doesn't work as well as a properly selected gate spring. Try and run as close to your desired boost as possible. A bigger turbo comes with drawbacks. Not saying don't do it, but there are many ways to get more power without changing it.

You dyno'd the car with leaks, that means the tune is probably way out, perhaps enough to cause serious problems...

Sounds like you have a dodgy oil filter, I know the Drift oil filters did this in mine due to the non-return valve leaking overnight. Too thin an oil may cause noise too. 10W40 all the way.

Because the wastegate is blowing open from manifold pressure? Or have you tied the wastegate shut and can't get it to hold more?

Genuine. I only have the PN for the entire turbo gasket set, which is worthwhile having if you plan to change the turbo one day. 14401-AQ826 Is yours damaged? I have never needed to replace one as yet.

Nice score, why so cheap, and where is my one?

Sorry Justin, I sold and fitted it today.

Plugs? Strange that it clears up on boost, it's usually the other way around.

Nice mill, exactly what I was looking at to replace the old horizontal mill in the shed.