scotty nm35

Youre the hero mate, just trying to help ffs.

I never said you were, but a simple search in the correct V35 forum would have sorted you out quickly. With the little amount of information you provided I am guessing you have a 2.5 or 3L? No OBD2 readers will work, as they aren't OBD2 compliant. (even though they have an OBD2 plug.) You can drop the battery terminal for 6 months and the fault will still be there, you either need to do the pedal dance to manually clear it, or use one of the limited units that will talk to your ecu, namely the Consult3 unit, Snap-on, Osirus or Launch Diagun. They are all fairly expensive but only the Consult3 will communicate with all the ecu's in the car.

Can't be done legally, so why bother?

Yep, The intake, after the afm and before the turbo. It's an easy way to see if a pipe has split, it can be impossible to find otherwise. Have him check the fuel pressure if possible. Should be around 35-40psi at idle. If that doesn't fix it, all I can suggest is one of my AFM's, the Nissan ones are crap.

Yes, if you manualize the auto. A shift kit should see you to around 300kw. Any more will require a built auto.

There are quite a few 'How-to's' on re-soldering them, I have a Stagea one here which could be the same... Do you have a pic?

You won't get anyone to recommend a good workshop willing to look a blind eye at mods. It's a good way for them to lose their RWC license. PM me if you like.

No.

Why would G37 work? It's a completely different chassis and engine... If you want answers quickly you need to ask them in the V35 section above.

Code for the box was 'overtemp' so I suggested a cooler for the auto. There were two other codes more pressing, abs wheel sensor and engine knock sensor, which we are planning to look at further. I suspect the wheel sensor might be causing extra load on the gearbox, which may have caused the overheat, but the sensor will have to be swapped before that is confirmed.

If you are going to rebuild the engine anyway, stick the money in a bank account and thrash this engine till it lets go. Grab another block and do that up if you are worried. Where are you located? If you have e85 nearby the engine should last for a fair while at that sort of power...

What do you mean OE style Disco? The short EV14's are 750, 1000 and 2000. There are also the new short 1400cc stainless internal e85 injectors... If only someone would make an adapter to use top feeds in the side feed rail. You have the Neo rail there though don't you?

3-4 laps. lol. It would be much better at keeping the temps under control if the ambient temperature was lower. I think the alloy block and piston squirter design helps transfer more heat into the oil, and it does run massive oil pressure... I guess it just needs a larger/secondary cooler if I want to track it again.

Perhaps you are better off not knowing. Mine hit 150 degree oil temps at the last Sandown trackday, in 30 degree weather, and I use a 30 row oil cooler with a 14 inch thermo running flat out.

I don't think you realise how little a true twin scroll actually improves response compared to a single Artz. Some think it is the same as simply running a smaller housing. I can't say I have tried one myself, but it's a lot of work for little gain... There would be more response gain going to an EFR Ti wheel turbo imo.

I can probably source new or reconditioned ones from my injector wholesaler if you are interested Cole. Be wary running old s/h ones without flow testing them, they don't like being out of the rail long, even in a sealed container.

Very reasonable price considering what you get in the kit.

You don't need to open the throttle, air will make it's way into the plenum easily with that much pressure behind it. Agreed, baked bean cans aren't the smartest option due to not having much of a lip. They can shoot out at high speed with even low pressure and do damage. I spun my 80mm bung up out of solid alloy and machined a generous lip on it so the clamp wouldn't let go. I have used it up to 40-50psi without a problem. If you can't find something suitable there are other options, a few people sell pressure testers on ebay, or I could make you one if you don't have a machinist locally.

It just slows the wastegate down, restricting the speed it can open or close. Not ideal. Nissan only use restrictors to adjust the amount of air the stock solenoid bleeds off, it adjusts the boost level using the restrictor hole size.

Ok, I have externally gated a few of those housings. Just understand they are internal gate housings only, and you will need to weld a bung into the internal gate hole to block it. Any decent gate will work fine, around that 45mm size, but don't just weld it on at a 90 degree, you need to help the exhaust flow out the gate any way you can. I use a steampipe bend and diegrind a nice merge from the flange like this. It helps force the exhaust into the gate. Simply welding it on at a 90 causes the gate to almost flow backwards, like a spray gun. You won't have good boost control.

The boost going into the actuator works against the spring to open the wastegate puck. It doesn't hold it shut unless you have a dual port actuator, similar to an external gate, which is very rare in internal applications. You either need boost pushing from the other side of the diaphragm, or a stronger spring. Putting a restrictor inline acts like a capacitor, smoothing the boost out, it won't help you, nor will winding so much preload into it that the puck can't travel anymore. Preload doesn't make the spring stronger, it just limits the wastegate travel.

They look the goods, can't say I have ever seen them before. I use only Turbosmart currently, especially now they released the HP caps and springs. These precision ones seem to be copied off the turbosmart design anyway, so should be fine.

I have seen plenty of side feed Skyline injectors lately showing signs of fine rust blockages in the filters, and only some of the injectors were blocked, some were clean. It could be worth dropping a few out to check... I can only think of one other reason, head gasket...

Easily I would think, at 1 bar perhaps.

10mm preload? The actuators will have about 12mm movement total. Sounds like the springs are simply too weak.