Kinkstaah

I thought the same, like, laughably so, as in, why would you even bother. Then I heard a couple of hilltop hoods songs, and I thought, well, its kind of catchy. Only those though. I still think other than exceedingly rare examples.. its just, no.

Mine is an extreme cautionary tale, if it was ever non-horrifyingly bad I'd have made a thread... gone to an event, or a track day, or a cruise.. or.. come out in public.. was off the road for 3-4 years in a workshop that I will not name.. not entirely their fault either, or mine. Just bad for everyone involved.. The road is less travelled for a reason sometimes.. TLDR: Mistakes were made. Everything has broken. Everything was replaced, results still quite bad.

No, as it is wraught with pain and disaster, years and years and years and years of it. WHen people say "it could be worse" - Thats me. I am that guy. There is no worse, from my perspective.

Mine really is a stroked neo, and cams, and some headwork blabla its a 2.9 kit but the pistons are slimmer than what you'd need for 2.9l displacement It's also an auto. Its also a highflow Technically bleeding boost up top is nice and safe. Technically 310kw (at 5k, and 6, and 7300) with 240 @ 4k in an auto is a 'good' result, but more is always good lol. y'all know how it is I also have flex fuel, and its very useful and tbh I wouldn't have it otherwise, even though I work 200m from an E85 servo.. Or caltex in my case. I dont know of any United in Clayton where I work, which is a bit sucky. Either the united page is lying or I just can't find it. Its worth it just so you can see the panicked attendants try and stop you filling up with it at bowsers which happens to me i'd estimate at least half the time

Everything major on a RB28 (neo) Just didn't hold boost. Was oddly laggy on first tune, now it's better response wise but won't hold boost. Its a hypergear turbo, a one off that even Stao can't quite remember what is in it. He's offered me two others to test/swap, one bigger and one smaller. I have unrealistic expectations +1 for Bilsteins, I am really happy with mine, but compared to stock as my only viewpoint you'd hope to be for the price

They weren't, but it was no misses, no hiccups, pull after pull after pull, hours of it... IC was cold, AT Cooler was...room temp. 240kw @ 4000... and 310 at 4800...and 5k,6k,7k, 298 at 7500 etc. Did lose some boost, 26psi in middle, tapered to 21-20... prev run was 24? at redline. Did a 98 run, 26psi (down to 21-22) and made 250kw lol. Same graph shape, though. 16+ deg of timing and no pinging.. 22 or so on E85. Nothing of note changed (well transmission build occurred/new trans but went from a built NA to built turbo one). Fingers pointed at IWG blowing open or manifold, or turbo being choked, though no reason as to why it should be any different than before as nothing changed... Should prob clarify First trip time, 20psi, E85, made 310 2nd trip/retune, 24 psi, E60, made 340, ran out of duty. 3rd trip/retune, "26"psi (down to 21?, E85, made 310. Prob seems due to boost, but nothing changed

I got mine replaced at Roy's windscreens (for those searching) - Drive in/out was $175. Took 30 min. I only had to go there cause I wasn't sure if it warranted a replacement screen and was checking

Yep, Chequered both times. lol wut indeed

349kw @ E60, run out of duty upgrade injectors 310kw @ E85 fuuuuuuuuu

I hate to be 'that guy' but changing the Turbo at all, in any way, in any form, in any possible configuration means you should immediately obtain a tunable ECU. Do not do it otherwise.

If you are hell bent on a new item, the Turbosmart Kompact Bov will completely and totally bolt directly in as per stock.

I also have a scotty intake with a factory AFM and Airbox on the other end of it. cost was about ~250 (for me). Good idea about sticking the rubber to the outside of it for the super paranoid though.. Scotty actually painted mine black, so he's well aware of Vic paranoia

Strange, never had that issue on my end. Had girlfriend come on work and travel visa and live with me for 1yr. Went overseas to NZ for a week and came back for 3mth of tourist visa then applied. Didnt even need to get married, defacto is enough. Not sure why so much drama about gay marriage in australia. Seems to be good enough for the aus immigration department to just establish a relationship. We provided a ton of photos and proof and I dont think it was even doubted/disputed. I imagine it depends a lot on where you're from and what Circumstances are. My gf is from Germany so I doubt they think its insincere. Wouldnt have thought coming from England would raise any red flags though. On our visits to the consulate to file papers and so on I noticed a LOT of people were indian/se asian/african in origin. Wondered offhand if that affects things. Probably does, even if unintentionally.

+1 as I also got my partner imported on a defacto visa If you are on a student visa and don't complete it/arent around you don't have the ability to stay. Being married here isn't enough unless you marry an Aus permament resident and can prove that it isn't suspicious

I understand this, my car actually has it labelled as "AT Oil Temp" (thats the actual text of the lamp that lights up) I also have an oil idiot light, as well as an oil pressure guage in the standard cluster with a LED on it from factory.. which lights up when oil pressure = 0 or extremly low - But there's also another one with the typical oil icon which doesnt appear when the pressure LED is on, but does appear when you turn the car on prior to starting it, etc. Was mainly looking at the AT Oil Temp one if anyone knew, as the oil pressure gauge does a laymans job of telling me if the oil is hot or not just by going on how much pressure is there when it warms up... (20w-60 oil) and well water temp has the little needle which doesn't move until something is seriously wrong. Not overly worried about oil overheating as everything I've read seems to indicate oil and coolant tend to go into the 'too high' region at the same time. I'd be getting proper gauges before any kind of track day, but curious through spirited driving through the hills what the AT oil temp actually is, because cooking a laptop to the transmission ECU to read it is rather cumbersome, and the AT Temp is apparently the first thing to get worried about. Was wondering mainly if the light comes on at 80C where it isn't 'that bad' a problem or whether it comes on at 150C or something in which case it's too late.

Yes, it does. I too had this opinion, and before I knew it I blacked out and was eating them Hating them, mind you, but eating them, and slowly the hate faded away..

I had the same opinion of KK donuts until I moved to the US. (they are the same, possibly worse in the US). Then over time somehow some of them became awesome. Mainly the chocolate cake ones. Others were still a retardo sugary mess. But I imagine over time, KK consumes all. Dat indoctrination. Plus you buy three or so from a Drive through with milk and it costs a grand total of about $2.50.

I had asked this question and got a "if it gets tuned by A, B, or C I'll honor it" - So it's worth asking. I asked only due to time constraints in my example. Alternatively, get it tuned by the builder then see another tuner. It does make a fair amount of sense to let the guy who built it tune it, especially if they are going to warranty the end result. I'd rather take a warranty over ~10kw

As someone who has unwillingly done this (long story) - Sell it and buy a turbo model. You will have plenty of years to save to revert whatever agreement you had with your dad to get the N/A Car

My Car was originally a N/A Series 2 R34 (auto) I was curious if anyone knew what temperature the warning lights for AT Oil Temp, and Engine Oil Temp actually illuminate at? I can't seem to find this information anywhere, even in the workshop manual. The workshop manual does mention the light comes on but only when the sensor detects variables which are everything except actual temperature. Just curious before I bought gauges (which I will anyway) to see whether these can be relied on as actual warning lights, in a "It is time to immediately back off" kind of warning. My google fu is clearly feeble.

PSI is dependent on how much the turbo really is flowing. 14PSI on your turbo is different to 14PSI on any other turbo in the world. It needs to go to a dyno, ASAP. It isn't possible to know if "14psi" is too much or too little for the setup you have listed.

I think most people would be surprised if word got out that 850cc is all you need for 465rwkw on E85 though. Every calculator that I found seems to insinuate it is above the ability for an 850cc injector. I only know this as I was looking into finding out what 1000cc injectors would safely seem to support as I ran out of flow. As I said before, its entirely possible my result which is from a turbo smaller than Stao's 465kw one, and older, and generally very shit, so much so I never posted a result in this thread..... is an indicator of other problems/restrictions (of which there are many if forum searches and general SAU hivemind would have you believe) I would have thought as a complete layman that injector duty cycle is a good rule of thumb for power use at the engine, before restrictions everywhere else come into play. Especially restrictions to make that car look VIC Compatible, Mr Officer.

My car is not the poster child of efficiency by any means (too long to get into.. I may make a thread one day about it) but I didnt think it would result into such a huge difference for a very similar sized injector, when both were at 100% duty cycle (in my case). At least not by such a massive amount unless I actually have 100rwkw of restriction.. which may actually be the real reason. I am going back for more boost with 1000cc's (when my appointment with Trent comes along..) and A FPR and new fuel pump to see if it can be maxxed out or at least to run proper e85 instead of religiously checking the ethanol % every fill up to avoid leaning out. Given the fact my Turbo cold side was designed in 2010, and it's sitting on a Low comp RB28 Neo that's auto, god only knows what it really 'should' be making, but I found the injectors being maxxed at 340 (at e60) when others max at 465 and e85 to be an indicator of something wrong with my setup

Getting 465kw out of 850cc's makes me really wonder wtf is wrong with my setup getting 345kw maxxing out 800cc's at E60, on the same dyno with the same tuner ;p

Also given the photo is a P plate compatible car, I'm going with Series 1 R34 GT Coupe. As to what's different between that and a R34 GTR - Everything.. and between a R34 GT and a R34 GT Turbo.. almost everything. At least so much so that for any meaningful upgrade (performance wise) for the Non Turbo car the answer will be "Sell and buy the car you want to turn the non-turbo into" This sounds vague and haphazard, but it will turn out to be very true.