Kinkstaah

If you want to cut the reo bar, that is... given the kit specifically mentions that you don't need to cut it. (you do)

more rage stories be me need fmic buy bolt on no modifications required blitz IC attempt to bolt on doesn't fit hi greg, enjoy series 2 bs again buy reo and front bar, cause they go together $650 later look at new reo is same between s1 and s2. f**k SAKE.

Scott is good. Honorable mention to Abe @ Havoc too, if for some reason you get some E85 on you and get ravaged like a Rabid animal.

This may sound dumb, but there's only one way to really be sure ey?

Unless you have a series 2 R34

Anyone got an example of this noise? My new turbo is making a noise also, but I wouldn't describe it as 'abnormally' loud.

Hey. Anyone know anywhere where one can purchase something f**king mundane, possibly the most mundane of all Skyline bits. A R34 N/A Series 1 Grey Front bar? Bonus points for a rear bar and skirts, for a sedan. Surely these must be lying in piles somewhere. but where?

See above.

This forum has issues with certain browsers which result in double posts.

Why? Plotting the power graphs seems to be as good a comparison as any, you can't compare one dyno with another unless someone takes the car to both which is unlikely as they're in different states. Saying that you can't plot them together in excel is like saying you can't pay attention to ANY dyno result as the data isn't conclusive. I get that it isn't RIGIDLY conclusive, but if you can't look at/compare dyno results then why even print/post them?

It isn't reaaallly much laggier if you compare the power curves. Mat's is a little better between 4000-4500 RPM, but after that the curves are very similar. Keeping in mind Mat's is running 28 PSI in that range and Tony's is running 22, 'more power' in that region is not hard to believe. In addition to that, Tony's is a 3582 spec turbo vs a 3076, so it's 'expected' Also how long do people really spend between 4000 and 4500 rpm? For me this is range of RPM I am in for about 0.01s of time, so does it really make much any difference? See also IWG vs EWG. If Tony had an EWG and 28PSI running through it, i'd be really interested to compare the Hypergear unit to say, a FP HTA 3582 spec unit, it'd have to be in the same 'general' ballpark. Always tricky with different car, different dyno, different tuner, different state, but if you overlay the graphs in excel there's not a real tangibly huge difference.

I found myself comparing your result to 34 GeeTeeTee's result with the FP HTA 3076, and while yours "looks" laggier for the power made (385 vs 391) I was initially disappointed until I realised the 3076 result is running 28-24psi boost vs 22 falling down to 18. Will be very interesting to see how it operates with more boost wound into it. I'm keen to try mine. Stao please send it to OTR

OTR.

Does that typically apply to 25's or 25NEO's as well? Just curious, as I went and put Type B's in.. because.. it seemed like a good idea at the time.

Well... after a week they hadn't started yet, that was on Tuesday.. put it there because a) Stao made a booking on my behalf b) They'd actually put a brae manifold on before c) It should be simple and relatively easy I think I could have f***ed it up 18 times after work by now

Oh already did that. It's at the 2nd workshop now...

I think I'm at about 5 weeks waiting for a manifold to get put on now, I am a patient man but fffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffff

As above, do not do this. I originally had a N/A Auto car, and f**k me what a nightmare I have had, by holding onto the same car and upgrading it. Be honest. 100% of the things you can do to this car you can do to a turbo manual down the track. Only do these things, and transfer them to your newer car, if you don't do the smart thing and buy a GTR at the end. You will regret it for about a day or so till the nostalgia wears off and you will one day realise the wisdom in the words of those who have walked this path before you.

I also realised after I wrote Nistune a lot, that the person asking has a 33 Auto, to which I have NFI if Nistuning will work as they typically change the ECU to a Z32 or RB20 ECU to boot. Unsure if that even applies to Autos, actually.

Nistune, Nistune, Nistune, Nistune, Nistune, Nistune, Nistune with a side of Nistune. Just Nistune. Nistune is what you want. Nistune is what everyone should want.

My car originally was a N/A. So it was the N/A transmission that got sent. I was under the impression from reading (here) that the N/A R34 transmission is much the same, before it gets built anyway. I have since learned this is not true, and MV didn't mention this to me either before they built what I sent them. I sent the entire transmission to MV for a stage 2 build. Everything bar going completely full manual, because as a Triptronic I had the ability to select gears already, so that feature wasn't needed (for a 33 I would have gone full manual, or actually just manual) It was put in the car (220-250rwkw at the time) Lasted about 10,000kms then every gear was neutral. The entire transmission was binned, I have never ever heard anyone give a more scathing review of another workshop's work before, the only part that was re-used was the billet servo piston and the trans cooler. I couldn't get much more detail than "every single component is ruined". He did list the components that were ruined, and showed them to me when I went there, but I couldn't really make sense of them other than "The reason every gear was neutral is the filter is full of broken transmission pieces" Given no-one else has reported a MV shift kit actually dying, I suspect this is more to do with it not getting enough line pressure from the stock R34 N/A TCU, or a lesser design in the N/A transmission as opposed to MV's actual work.

I have a PCS2000 TCM on my car, I don't really know of anyone else who has it. I got it, because I mauled a MV shift kit in about 10,000kms. The R34 has triptronic, if you were R33 I wouldn't be using this as you don't have both 'modes' to play with. Obviously picking the RPM you want is better than tinkering with things. It lets you control every variable. So not just TCM lockup, but the amount of line pressure you want, shift points, on a 3D table with input (either MAP sensor or TPS) (tps in my case) In short, in "d" mode I have a car which uses very bugger all pressure down low, and you can adjust the behaviour of when you want it to shift. Essentially you have taxi mode. In triptronic mode, you get full manual control with spinebreaking shifts at the literal press of a button. In triptronic mode, at low throttle and low speed (say, changing from 1st to 2nd, to 3rd, to 4th) under 40kph, you feel nothing at all. Try it at 3k at half throttle from 1-2 and you will feel it. Try it at 3k RPM at full throttle and you will feel it more. Try it at 7k RPM, full throttle and you will REALLY feel it. (well, I have no grip here but I assume I'd definitely feel it) I was told this behaviour isn't possible without a computer, that the harder shifting you want up top of the rev range, you get twice as hard shifts down lower in the rev range. No way to get smooth shifts down low and massively tight shifts up top without a computer. This is what I have been told, seems to line up with peoples experiences with shift kits. The item cost about 1k (shipping from US) cost about another 1k to tune. I have spent more on my transmission than most.. and honestly I understand why people do not do this. I don't really have enough of a reference point driving anyone else's car to really compare as to whether it's worth it, though. Maybe one person will say "Man, this is better than a manual" and then instantly it will be worth all the pain and suffering this thing has caused me.

I believe you can do exactly that. It is also possible to have a completely standalone computer (at least for the R34) for the automatic side of things. This is probably 'better' than going full manual, because you can configure absolutely everything that a transmission can do.

This really needs to be tested on a dyno. Do one run with it fully off. Another run with it on. Switch it when they bisect, basically. Seems to vary a little with every setup.

The cheapest and easiest and best and most little dramariffic way to get an AWD ~300hp Nissan Skyline is to get a GTR and leave it stock