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About azzada1

  • Birthday 04/18/1991

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    R33 Gtst, Patrol
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  1. +1.. using a link G4+ and currently have a fuel pressure vs boost pressure table setup to kill the engine if one of the pumps fall over.. Just run a sensor off the reg as above.
  2. Thats awesome mate! good to know. Ive now got mine running with the rb30E pistons so i should do a comp test just to compare.
  3. Finally got mine back on the dyno, RB30DET stock NA bottomend with rings and bearings Stock head with camtech 264/9mm cams, performance springs and external vct feed Precision 6266 .82 rear 3spd Jatco with an unknown converter Link G4+ E85 490hp @ 18psi (running gate pressure so 16psi threw most of the rev range untill 6kish) Dynoed on a mainline Hub Dyno Didnt bother printing a graph but have a shot of the dyno screen, Very linear power band as we wanted to go soft on the midrange to give the rods some life.. more then happy with the power for now considering the 3L bottomend only cost me $400. After powercruise we will turn it up at the track to try and push for a mid/high 10
  4. Keep us posted mate! if you can get away without decking the block and still manage a decent comp ratio thats fantastic, the fact that you have measured it all your self and are happy with your conclusion is great..
  5. Id take the lower comp over machining the deck, In a budget build (Stock pistons/rods, No disrespect ment by this) I wouldnt have though the comp wouldnt matter all that much, block integrity on the other hand.
  6. any reason you dont want to use the stock 30 pistons?
  7. Just the usual multiplate clutch with laggy RB "roughness".. more so in comparison to an auto. Setting it up would be alittle tricky although it looks like some shops just manage to buy a combo from Als raceglides and with afew converter tweaks its running 7s/8s haha
  8. Nice street car with 1200hp.. Powerglide or th400 are your only choices really.. Mate owns a 1000hp GTR and commented on the sequential being a little rough for a streeter. Really depends on the type of racing you plan on.. auto would be bit average for circuit, holinger would be ok for drags. mentioning liberty leads me to believe its a street drag car?
  9. Keas can help you out mate, Im sure there are plenty of other shops that can assemble it for you if your not close to SA.. Ive personally just swapped from a manual to a keas built jatco (33 gtst auto) and i can update on the results once the new setups running. I personally plan to use the car for alittle bit of everything aswel though its certainly not going to be as good/fun for drifting or corner stuff as the manual but itll make up for it in roll racing and drag racing. Fun factor can be very reliant on power though, 200hp auto might be alittle boring in comparison to say a 400hp car.
  10. Use a ross balancer and trigger kit that I bought late 2016 on my built rb25 ~600hp, dyno work, rollracing, track night and street work so far. pulled the motor out to sort another issue and everthing is in great condition with no issues snout is fine, balancer is fine trigger kit is brilliant so in the short term it hasnt caused any issues like decives older balancer.. When talking to one of the techs over the phone he seemed to think incorrect install and not torquing the balancer bolt can cause some issues. Would not hesitate to buy another ross balancer.
  11. How much power are you making rusty? Reason i ask is ive been told to run up to 3 thou depending on application and overall power output, The person giving me this advice has made over 40 passes with his 1000+ HP Rb30.. Just looking to open the discussion is all
  12. Will be doing this very soon and i like the way you have done it rusty, thanks for the info!
  13. Great to see it running and on the dyno, just ashame about the teething issues... Love how it just coughs out 580hp! lol
  14. If it bolts straight in I can understand why you are considering it, make sure to post results in the rb26 thread! Will be interesting to see how it holds up against similar wheel sized garret/PT/BW turbos
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