azzada1

Love the thread neil! Love the amount of effort you have gone to to reduce weight and actually show the individual results of alot of the parts. Im working on my own 33 currently aiming for the 1300 flat mark so your build is great inspiration and gives me hope. I have a question regarding the power steering, Do you still run it? And if so are you able to share the wiring required to keep it running after removing the hicas/abs ECUs.. thanks

Clamp gauled up and fell apart before we had finished fabbing exhaust.. afew friends of mine over here have had the same issue and one was even able to compare to a genuine kit he purchased a year or two prior, looks like its was just a generic china "suits 3" PT" kit I ended up using a 2 - 3/4" tial clamp.. I dont want to drag them down as ive had afew other parts from them and they have been fine..

Had a golebys yaris coil die at the track afew weeks ago, Im glad ive found this thread and tbh im alittle pissed they are not genuine but not surprised given the quality of some of the parts supplied ie "precision v band kit" not genuine either... I will replace all 6 with genuine items double check the dwell and hopefully they should last alot longer then 500kms

Alot of people dont run the filter and dont run into any other issues either, But lets not pretend precision hasn't had its fair share of complaints and quality control issues.. I fit the filter for my own piece of mind and ended up having issues with the first motor and filter saved turbo.. my drain doesnt have any fittings just the push lock -12 i think it was and a nice curve to the block with heat sleave over it to make it last..

I also use an earls inline oil filter for the feed.. and be careful you dont accidentally turn the oil restrictor when tightening the oil feed line

Does look alittle small, from memory my drain is a -12 that slides nicely over the stock drain bung on in the block

Not so much shocked but a stock 26 with a 62mm being 10/20kmh faster over 1000m then built strokers with 64/68/76mm turbos is suprising to me lol.. beautiful cars none the less

Was not dissapointed with the stock block warriors! How your car consistently beats all of the big hp pretty looking ozzy park workshop builds is beyond me haha, those quarter figures would surely improve on a preped track yes?

Ill be there spectating, hoping you and royce both go well! Very interesting that the dynapack reads very close!

Was that at the dyno day simon or private tune? I recall a softer ramp rate being talked about to help a certain au for the dyno day so just curious.. excellent result for the 62mm either way

Bit of a thread bump here.. are the plazmaman cores made in aus? sounds like a stupid question but its something i cant seem to find the answer to, obviously they build the end tanks and weld them in house but i was curious about the cores.. cheers

Just a FYI, this car ended up with a HKS 2.8L and a gtx4294.. unfortunatly after afew years of abuse the engine seized and i haven't spoken to the owner since, was a tough combo none the less

My yaris coil kit from golbey parts (not sure if genuine coils or not) has run 23psi on the standard bcpr7es gap, think its around 0.9 from memory.. I suggest you check wiring/earthing, or as above the coils could be old or faulty

After constant issues with my CAS over 6500rpm during tuning and road tests I decided to bite the bullet and order the ross kit for my balancer.. Tuner was much happier and the car revs clean to 8000rpm now without coughing and spluttering.. I'm running the 12 tooth chopper wheel on the balancer with the billet CAS bracket and 1 tooth pickup on the cam with gt101 sensors, very happy with the look of the kit and the difference it made.

Had afew issues with my first built motor on start up.. long story short the inline filter saved the turbo from 5-6 pieces of debris that could have caused internal damage.. For an extra ~$80 it was well worth the tiny bit of hassle.. So many people told me it wasn't required and over kill but it saved me a turbo rebuild..

Can almost guarantee that 18 x 9.5 +38 will rub on the cast iron knuckle/strut thing (cant remember the name of it for the life of me) on full lock up front, My 18x9.5 +35 (not rpf01s though) required spacers to sit flush and to avoid inside of the rim hitting the cast strut on full lock.. The only real options for decent fitment with the sizes in that chart you have there is 18x9 +35 or 18x8.5 +30 for the front and 18x10 +38 or 18x9.5 +38 for the rear..

Ive entered once before over here in Perth, The night was great and I enjoyed beating on the new setup but with traction issues and an old H pattern I was far from competitive, Its ashame it would seem the track over here at barbagallo is abit shorter 50-100m roughly then the eastern states.. doesnt give me enough time to catch back up after spinning 1st and 2nd. Good fun taking the misso and some mates for a blast though.. once my roster lines up again ill be keen again for sure...

I have the Gen 2 6266 BB with a .82 rear housing... setup is not completely refined yet but its making ~20-21psi around 4700rpm, currently making 620hp on 23psi on a dynapack hubber.. forged 25 non neo with camtech cams and performance springs, the .68 rear will become a restriction as stated Dyno sheet is in the rb25 thread

Dynapack hubber gives a possible 5-10% inflated reading.. However simons back to back results with his setup and different cam combos are awesome and the car speaks for itself performance wise.. Its unfortunate that the next time its dynoed it wont be a true back to back unless you can sweet talk sean and he has access to the dyno still

My tuner tunes the car completely on 98 then adds 20% ethanol and retunes, then another 20% and retunes etc etc until he gets to 80-85%.. If the car spends most of the time on ethanol he does the same process backwards from E85 down to 0% ethanol.. Seems to work quite well. However in no way would I disagree with guilt toy either..

What size rear housing? Im sure it should have more left in it at only 26psi

Slight update, Still having afew issues with the car, however the ross trigger kit is working great!! The intention with this tune was to keep the car safe for the racewars weekend so we stopped at 23psi... really need to get the car back on the dyno and turn it right up so the 6266 can do some work!!

Ok after getting frustrated with the smoke on idle and struggling to believe it was the brand new turbo with an inline oil filter I pulled the motor down and came across afew problems from when it was first assembled.. oil rings weren't to flash, acl pistons had hit and snapped off 5 of 6 oil squirters and we also found some glass beads in the head... frustrating but at least we found the real issues and tbh the motor was cheaper then the turbo.. My Reason for this post was to clarify that the smoke was not in fact the turbo, However if I hadn't had the inline filter I fear the turbo may have been damaged and needed a rebuild, the filter caught about 5 small pieces of glass and sand.. For the $80 it costs for the earls filter it seems almost stupid not to run it as insurance. The motor has been rebuilt now and I've ordered a ross trigger kit to eliminate the CAS issues, I look forward to turning it up to see what the 6266 can do on 25-30psi on the rb25.

I think weight is often over looked for sake of tugging over dyno figures.. Doesnt matter if your car is 2000kgs and 500kw if its not running 140mph alot of people will still just call BS on the figure and not even think to consider weight.. I recall afew years back mercury motorsports being criticised about there dyno figures because nitto (34) wasn't running as high mph as some r32 gtrs with similar power... in realitly it was a full weight road car with a cage lol..

More likely to be "sheety" tuned by scali... Not sure if RH"9"R has had anymore dyno time since making its 726 @ 1.7bar...