Nightcrawler

Not a stupid question at all. As I understand it, both methods of lifting the car will result in some tension on the bars. In the past when changing them I have undone the nuts on the sway bar links, jacked the car up, then gently let each lower control arm down on bricks until the end link bolts are loose and just slide out. Then you can unbolt the main sway bar U brackets, remove sway bar and replace.

Also consider that if your rear tyres (that are fyi significantly too narrow for even stock power levels) are actually JDM and not Australian DOT approved, if you have an accident, your insurance will NOT cover you whatsoever, as any JDM/non-DOT-approved tyres are illegal for use on Australian roads. Just something to note.

The extremely easy way to see what happens when you engage Snow Mode is to do it. Then you wil understand in 30 seconds what it does. And of course manuals don't have a 'transmission mode' button lol. But yes I completely agree with the guys above - I am willing to bet you have mismatched tyres either front to back or side to side.

If you had your battery connected when you undid or re-did your airbag plug, it causes it to throw a code - I have actually read reports of the airbag going OFF when it is plugged back in with the battery connected. You might have dodged a bullet. Some codes can go away by unplugging the battery and leaving your headlights on for 5 mins to completely flatten the battery. Give it a go.

Haha funny this topic should come back up. I ended up biting the bullet and bringing in 4 urethane Nismo copy front bars in late 2013 (an absolute nightmare of an experience, and significantly more costly than I was anticipating). I have one on my car, have sold 2, and have one currently for sale. And yes, as you mention FlyingEL, the genuine Nismo front bars are fibreglass and crack/shatter if you bend/hit them too hard. Mine is urethane, which can literally flex 180 degrees back on itself and just pops back into shape. So, I still have one sitting here for sale http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433400-f-s-v35-coupe-urethane-nismo-style-front-bumper-bars/#entry7064468

^^^ looks very awesome! There must be some almighty spacers under the rear wheels to make them poke like that - kudos. Great plate too

Definitely hollow - and the oem ones are piss weak - upgrade them asap.

The OBD2 port on V35s is an unual thing - people report that most OBD scantools and cables don't work on V35s either. I believe it has something to do with much of the electrical system being CAN-BUS, not pure OBD2, but am definitely not an expert in it.

yep simple job, should be about $100-$150 tops

As Ben said, just remove the rear muffler to try it. But, let me assure you, it will be loud as hell and sound like a giant awful fart when you accelerate. There is a prettty good reason that all these companies sell HFCs, Y-pipes, mid-pipes and rear mufflers for hundreds/thousands of dollars - if it were as simple as removing parts to get a perfect sound, they would no longer be in business. However, removing the mid muffler DOES give some extra sound and a tiny bit extra flow. If you are on a budget, I would suggest doing this first.

Yeah, chuck $1,250 shipping on the price of any bar on there - go on, ask them for a quote

You'd be very lucky to find any store in Australia stocking V35 bits unfortunately. But I do know of someone who has the best bumper bar in the world for V35s for sale, in unbreakable urethane *cough* http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/433400-f-s-v35-coupe-urethane-nismo-style-front-bumper-bars/

^^^ I have subscribed to this topic so that when fails (and notice I said when, not if), you come on here crying for help cos it fried your $1,000 BC module or something similar. Enjoy your rubber buttons .... ewwwwwww

If all of the comments and reviews of the Metra kit say they are useless pieces of crap, then why are you even posing this question?! Save up some more money and wait a bit for a genuine Nissan kit. Fullstop.

When someone has pulled apart the panel near the drivers knee, when they have refitted it they have not properly (or at all) connected the pipe that senses cabin ambient temperature. If you pull off this panel, in the left hand side under the mirror fold-on button you will see a little pipe that is supposed to be connected to the panel on the left hand side where there are some little cuts in the panel for the pipe to 'breathe'. I bet that is your problem.

Is the "since 1957" aftermarket? It is a different font and not centred. That would annoy the piss out of me.

It is on that panel, but to the left of your left knee, on the underside. Lay down in your drivers side footwell and look up - you will see it.

Ah sorry, I should read the title properly But yes, V35s most definitely came out in 50th anniversary editions! http://www.justauto.com.au/justcars/cars-for-sale/2004-NISSAN-SKYLINE-350GT-V35-ATW3508438?backurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.justauto.com.au%2Fjustcars%2Fcars%2Fnissan%2Fskyline%2F370gt-v36&backtext=Results errrr or were they 70th anniversary? http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/brisbane-city/cars-vans-utes/2004-70th-anniversary-nissan-skyline-350gt-premium-coupe-v35/1052048576 http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/fortitude-valley/cars-vans-utes/2004-rare-70th-anniversary-nissan-skyline-v35/1047676390 http://www.j-spec.com.au/wiki/Nissan/Skyline/V35/id-313 So, what are the 50th/70th anniversary editions anniversaries of?

I have seen buttloads for sale in Aus over the years. The easy way to spot them is the fact that they are the only model to have FULL leather seats (and they are not red).

Haha, I'm famous Ooooh yeah, the Weds are awesome! Much better wheel! I recently put Rays Work Emotion XD9s on my 35 and love them. I don't have a pic of my car clean with them on yet - might give it a wash tomorrow.

^^^ you made one quite large mistake in your blog though mate - to call XXR a 'quality' brand is entirely misleading. There is a VERY good reason why Chinese/Phillipine wheels are so cheap .... http://oppositelock.jalopnik.com/so-why-are-xxr-wheels-so-cheap-1441636402 http://jdmchicago.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20513 Though Vertinis are made in Taiwan, they are quite highly rated for the price and don't have many known failures. It is always a case though of Japanese wheels having much more R&D, much better construction and quality, are lighter and stronger, but of course cost a heap more. You get what you pay for. I had some Rotas on my V35 but after 3 years all were out of round or cracked and I had to bin the whole set. Was cheaper in the short run, but much more expensive in the long run .....

It's not a vastly different process to change pads timewise. Depending on how worn the discs are of course. Often you need to take the whole caliper off to spread the pistons open to accommodate the new thicker pads, which is actually a more time consuming process than removing the slide brake setups.

Plus I am pretty sure that any brakes could be optioned on any model, so it pays to check auction photos. The other thing is though, there are a few sets of BBK and Brembos floating around fs for cheaper than ever prices - so if you find a car at the price and spec you want, buy it, and put BBK/Brembos on it when it gets here (like I did).

I don't think they exist - have never seen them. And almost nothing aftermarket like that is made for sedans, so I can pretty much guarantee you that you are out of luck. You can however buy kits which put aftermarket angel eyes in standard lights - it is a fair job to do though I am told.

Don't bother with an NRMA check - generally RAA/NRMA are freaking useless with imports. Take it to your nearest import specialist/workshop and get them to look it over. And as dodgy said above, get the auction papers. Something sounds fishy. Don't trust a car salesman as far as you can kick them. And don't believe them about any implied or specific warranty - they are not worth the paper they are printed on.