GTSBoy

No. You were quite unreasonably cruel. We're not up to speed with whatever beef might exist between you and the other guy who got a warning, but his behaviour 6 years ago and yours now indicate that it might be time to grow up a bit.

Nothing wears "the most". Different cars will always show signs in a different place. 114000 km is either nothing at all (as in, given the calendar age, nearly brand new) or it's completely unbelievable. We stopped believing numbers like that about 15 years ago. Having said that, my car is up around 270000 km and I have put bushes into some places** as many as 10 times in >25 years that I've owned it. ** FUCAs, which are different on an R32 than on a 33, so not likely to be the same issue for you. I have original ball joints all the way around. They are perfectly fine. Same with the spindle bearings in the front. Tie rod ends have all been done at least once though. Pretty much every other bush in the car has been done at least twice. Some of those in the first 100000km after I got it (which was at a genuine 23000!). Some of those bushes are now sphericals, and they are on a <cough> regular maintenance schedule, hence why my FUCAs have been rebuilt so many times. Half of those 10 in the count above would be in the last few years! 'twere I you, I would budget on replacing everything, for fun and prevention. If they really are 30 year old rubber, they will all be unpleasantly aged in one way or another. Whether that's corrosion of shells, or the rubber cracking, or sagging under the load, etc etc.

Tighten until it starts to get loose again, then back off 1/4 turn?

So that will really depend on what else was changed when it came out. If it is the same front pipe and the same cat back, then yes. Plus you might have to work out what they did with the themperature sensor.

We have 2x Swifts and my plans for a Swift, unfortunately, do not extend to an intake and an exhaust. I've been having dirty thoughts about a 2.5L Suzi V6, AWD gearbag out of a suitable donor, rear floorpan graft to take the rear cradle from same, and either trumpets of evil or a small supercharger. If I'm going to make noise in a Swift, I want it to be anti-social, evil handling and rough. Probably need to be fully stripped inside, matt black paint, plastic windows, 7" wide wheels, big brakes, silly suspension, etc etc etc. I have no idea if any of the proposed driveline components could take the pain. But it would be a hoot finding out.

Is the Stag even ODBII compatible?

Yuh, I think it works with the Nitto gear only. I presume that you're not also using the Nitto gear? Watch the video. Compare the interface between the Nitto gear and washer (on the gear side) vs the stocker and decide if you think the Nitto gear is different from stock there.

There's not a battery backup for an alarm siren or something that's somehow hot to the 12V rail?

Mostly likely welded. 'Coz it's f**ked. You have the car right there. Get someone to tap on the underside while you sit in the back with the seat out. You'll find it faster than we will.

Yes, well.... get the main wire off the back of the alternator and try again?

Uses the same plugs as Ctek too, so easy swaps (when you've got the ring terminal thingo perma-wired to the battery, like I have.)

This is the LCA mount reloctaion kit. Self explanatory in its description. https://au.gktech.com/products/s13-180sx-r32-subframe-anti-squat-reduction-weld-in-kit?_pos=62&_fid=1e812d392&_ss=c These are the alloy subframe bush inserts that I am using. I like them. https://au.gktech.com/products/rear-subframe-slip-in-collars?_pos=29&_fid=1e812d392&_ss=c Alternatively, if you have original and shitty bushes, you might consider outright replacement with poly. https://au.gktech.com/products/polyurethane-rear-subframe-bushes?_pos=28&_fid=1e812d392&_ss=c I would also higly recommend that you look into adjustable RUCAs and tension rods, so you can sort out the camber and bump steer behaviour, especially if the car will be any more than ~15mm lower than stock. I would also highly recommend the GKTech FUCAs, although you really should do some research and learning on the subjetc of R32 FUCAs before making any decisions. All of this will be criticaly difficult to get through a TÜV inspection too, if that happens to be relevant to you. Note that if you do install the relocation kit, you will absolutely have to replace the associated bushes with spherical joints (you can read all about that on the product page) or upgrade the LCAs also.

Promoted to full member so can now post pics directly.

Would need a substantial current draw in the car to make a bunch of sparks. Obvs to now test resistance to ground of the car's B+ lead. If there's a short there, you'll see it. Only likely place for that, as you suspect is alternator. But there is also the possibility that rats have had a chew on some insulation. Shitbox has the battery in the boot, yeah? Plenty of cable to attack.

Test actual voltage on battery. It's probably way low and possibly got a shorted cell. Something that might explain everything in your report.

Actually, I'd argue that that is exactly when having the wastegate/scroll isolation correct would show the most benefit.

And the full R32 GTR wiring diagrams are also freely available. Hmm.... there's supposed to be an auto replace that would have linked the thread. Here it is, manually

40 grit sounds about right, to start. You make some decent cuts/damage in the coating with that, then rapdily scale up to maybe 80 and 120 for the bulk of the actual removal, then fine it off to 180 or 240 perhaps. No need to go any finer than that, and maybe no need to go even as fine as that. Wrap it on a big block and have at it. At least on the hub face.

Do the GKTech rear lower control arm mount relocation, and either alloy subframe inserts or very stiff subframe bushes. Traction is going to be at a premium!

My guess? Almost perfect separation. The pressure pulses would bleed across, but because they have to squeeze through the gap, they will be substantially attenuated. Given most twin gates are plumbed back to atmosphere..... I would say that experiment is well understood. But in reality, it would make no difference to spool at all, if they are 2 completely separated gates. What happens downstrema of them will not affect spool at all.

Look, it's very simple. The 6 bolts or the 9 bolts are interface between the clutch and the flywheel. Any flywheel will bolt to any RB crank - the bolts in the centre there are the same same. So, you just need teh flywheel to suit the turbo clutch. That's all. No more to think about. Get both, boost off into the sunset. (only without the boost).

It's not true. RBs only have one gearbox bolt pattern. I mean, I was surprised that there was a different clutch bolt count on the weak NAs, but that's on the flywheel, which is not part of the engine.

That doesn't sound like bad news. That sounds like the never ending packet of TimTams.

Yeah. A long time ago someone hassled me to buy a raffle ticket where first prize was a Mitsu 3000GT. He was most up[set when I asked if 2nd prize was 2 of them.

I found it easiest to get rid of the engine that needed the smaller pulley and dropped in a whole Neo. The new PS pump comes with the engine. Deleting the HICAS lines is easier with the engine out too! :p