GTSBoy

No. ADM R32s had a different setup with the outer of the outer as brake only, with amber indicator in the centre of the outer (instead of it just being a reflector). This because ADRs require that no permanently lit rear light may reside outboard of the rear indicator (which is what the JDM tailights have). All imported R32s are supposed to have the wire linking the tail light input to the outermost light cut, to approximate the ADM config and comply with ADRs.

What I have may not be a good recommendation for other RWD R32s. There is something a bit weird about mine and we have GTR springs to get the ride height right. KDFL-116 and KDRL-87SP. The rears there are specifically for the Aust market GTRs. The dampers have extra grooves cut on them to expand the ride height adjustability range. The valve stack is set up by SK. I'm not sure what he does - but the fronts replaced otherwise identical B6s that I already had on the car, and they were a very noticeable improvement - and I wasn't upset with the original ones!

Now is the time to talk to someone like Knight engines here in Adelaide about doing a proper job on the head, along with some nice Kiwi cams to go with the lifter conversion and the bigger valves. If you're going to start working on a head at all, you might as well do it properly. All the seats will come out, all the guides will come out. The head will be ported to within an inch of perfection and it will make 600rwHP on about 80% of the boost you would need without it.

Why? And what sort of GTR does that? R32? No. R33? No. R34? No. All have dedicated amber indicators. Besides, in a car as modern as a G37, the indicators and brakes lights and so on are all driven by the BCM. You can reprogram the BCM to flash whatever lights you want, without buying some tacky clear plastic lens Altezza uleh lights.

Oh, and front caster rods. Spherical joints only. No rubber or urethane. You'd be surprised how much these are needed to control the wheel motion (fore-aft). I have Teins in my car, but basically anything the same is going to do the job. GK-Tech possible again here.

Well, unless you're going to do something about the messed up LCA geometry that you get from going lower than ~350mm (ie, some sort of drop spindle) then the fact that the damper is unhappy at that point in its stroke is not the largest problem anyway. If you want to go low low then you're really looking at full coilovers, or if going for OEM format dampers (Blisteins or Ohlins or whatever) then you're possibly looking to see what can be made out of a damper that's intended for another car. As to your rate considerations......MCA like high spring rates and low ARB rates. SydneyKid (I have his revalved Bilsteins along with Kings springs that are essentially the same rates as SK used in his original work) likes lower rate springs and harder bars. Mine are in that 5.x & 3.x-4.x region (can't remember exactly) and I have 24mm adjustable bar at the front set on the hard end and a 22mm adjustable at the rear set......actually, I can't remember where I have it. The rear was certainly too stiff with 24mm rear adjustable set soft though. I think I probably have the 22mm set soft. My car is well set up for street. The Bilsteins have very firm damping rates and soak up a hell of a lot on their own. It seems counterintuitive, but the firmness of Bilsteins works well with lower rate springs. The ride is very absorbant. Compliant enough for reasonably rough road surfaces. But, there is no way that anything that I have under the car is good enough to work well on a track, especially with sticky tyres. Need to go up to the 12-14kg spring range at the front for that. Adjustable arms are essential. If you do not have tough, trustworthy adjustable uppers at the front, there is no point doing anything else with your suspension anyway. Look to the GKTech FUCAs for this. Then you ned good droplinks for the bars, and at least adjustable rear uppers and tension rods, along with building and using a bumpsteer gauge to set them up properly.

Still available. Straight from Germany too, I should think (given that you're in Europe, right?). B8 better again, although possibly not for RWD 32s. Ask a Bilstein supplier what they can do for you. Not as good as Bilstein anyway, despite adjustability. No knowledge or care (for the Nismo, anyway). Ohlins would surely be possible, if built up to spec. It's just a question of money. These are shit anyway. Who cares? f**k Jap coilovers to the moon. As above, although they do seem to have a lot of fans here. See 5 & 6. To what end? Just going to end up with f**ked out versions of stuff I wouldn't want anyway. The answer, here in AU, is MCA coilovers, or at least one or two other options. There are always good damper builders everywhere. 'Twere I you, I'd just talk directly to Bilstein here in Oz, or MCA or Shockworks, and just pay to get them shipped. A couple hundred bucks to ship them across the world is only ~10% of the cost of the gear.

Yeah, but given that you're very unlikely to get what you want, you should probably get what you can.

Like. What?

I'm thinking that the future of crowded conversions is to use EWP and EPS pump and free some space next to the supercharger/alternator for the air-con compressor. But then....now that we're in the era of stop-starts, hybrids and electric cars - air-con compressors with electric motors are going to have to be worth a look at also.

So, clearly what you want is a ~3.7 CW&P set out of an S chassis car.

Be aware that a Hypergear turbo is not really a direct replacement from an engine management point of view. They make more boost and flow than the R33 ECU will be happy with. Talk to Tao about your options to keep the new turbo not so far away from the capabilities of the stock turbo so the ECU doesn't shit itself.

What car?

More than likely something in the system stopped working and that was someone's hack workaround. Probably not a good sign.

I don't think so. But discovering unexpected behaviours exhibited can be just as illuminating as when things do what you expect.

Well, yeah. I was hoping that it would be telling you whether there was enough gas in it or not. Tried it with it plugged in and unplugged? Yeah, thee R32 GTR manual has everything you need.

Pressure switch is healthy, right?

Is it climate control? If so, did you realise that there is a full diagnostics suite available through the control panel? See the R32 GTR manual.

Buy eBay $25 USB inspection camera. Poke through hole, inspect. You'll never regret spending the tiny amount of money.

That's probably responsible for the slowdown from 1200 to 1000. It heats up and closes.

Th curve of resistance vs temperature for the ECU coolant temp sensor is easily enough googled up. You can measure the sensor direct at its terminal to try to isolate the sensor from wiring problems too. The slowdown from 1200 to 1000 just sounds like the AAC closing as it heats. I can't remember from previous description....is that in the loop or blocked off? The RB25 integrated unit only has one air inlet & outlet right? With 2 paths through it? Like on the Neos? Some of the reason for my confusion here is that in your earlier post you said you "completely capped off the cold start valve"......but if there's only one air hose bring air to the combo IACV/AAC then you cap off both. Right? That RB25DE / KA valve pictured is similar but different to the 25 turbo ones, and I've ever messed with NA engines, so I'm not sure if I'm missing something. Does it also have one of these or something similar somewhere?

Oops. Correct myself. I meant "if the ECU believes that to be 20°".

Yeah, why use a kit. Just make mounts.

I can set mine down until it stalls. Just keep typing in smaller numbers.

No. The auto ECU wants to see 20°. If you set it to an actual 15° on the engine and the ECU believes that to be 15°, then your timing will be 5° retarded everywhere. As I said in previous post. No. The ECU "has" control over the idle speed. You can see that when you unplug the IACV the revs drop - meaning that that valve is closing down. When you plug it in, the speed increases. meaning that the ECU is driving it open. The 1200 rpm is a consequence of ECU action. If, however, the ECU had good control of the idle speed, then it would be driving it down to 650 rpm, not bumping it up. It is either bumping it up because there is an input (like air-con idle up, or some other thing) or a fault in the ECU/wiring that is putting more (PWM) voltage onto the IACV than is warranted by the idle speed. Here's another thing. I don't know if R32 RB25 ECUs have it, but delta idle speed control is a thing. If the idle is stubbornly high (ie, it won't come down because the IACV is not doing anything/blocked) then the ECU will reduce timing to pull the idle speed down. Certainly happens on R33/4 RB25 ECUs. For this reason there are things you have to do to ensure that the ECU is not trying to adjust the idle timing while you are trying to set the base timing. I'm not suggesting that this is what is happening in your case, but it is another excellent reason to look at the ECU via Consult to find out what idle timing target it is working to. It may be all f**ked up (ie faulty tacho signal) and think that the rpm is different to what it actually is and be trying to speed it up, for all we know. It's ridiculously high. I changed the idle speed setpoint down to 600 rpm in my Neo ECU (Nistune, remember) and saved an appreciable amount of idle fuel consumption, which I see in my actual fuel bill, because I drive through thick traffic on my daily 50km commute. 1200 rpm will absolutely pig the fuel.