GTSBoy

The joke was funny for the specific reason it was created for. Overall though, at the time Turkey wasn't that bad. It was actually a nice place with nice people. But now, Erdogan is making it into an corrupt fundamentalist Islamic hell hole. So the joke is now sadly closer to reality than it ever was.

Won't be this. Under cruise, that is a vacuum leak, leading to lean operation, not rich. Only goes rich on boost, when you lose the air outwards. The presence of an FCON is not a trivial thing here. I would take it to the most suitable mechanic, put it on the dyno and see WTF is going on. Internet diagnosis of this sort is not going to lead to anything except 10 suggestions for things it won't be followed by as surprise announcement from you that you found a family of frogs living in the cat converter and once they were moved on the problem went away.

I wondered how this would play out when I started reading the thread. There is still one sphincter in one of his posts. Merhaba Bahadir. nasılsınız? Sorry I can't offer good suggestions for the transmission. I hate autos and I'm usually happy to see them die. There are manuals around for them on-line, so keep digging. Hopefully someone here can point you towards one.

Is it the case that either loom plug can reach to either sensor without looking overly stretched, etc? Surely there's one physical configuration that looks natural and one that looks less natural. If you put it all together and run it, you could probably find out directly if you have ECUTalk by pulling #2 injector plug or coil plug while running and look to see which sensor reacts. Whichever sensor reacts is the front one. If the ECU thinks it's the rear one, just swap.

This is a searchable topic. There are thousands of words of information on this site. Have a dig.

225/50 is stock 32 GTR size. Are you ragging on Teh GTR??!!!??

There's no such thing as lag from a slightly bigger cooler core. The internal volume is approximately 3/5 of f**k all.

Should have said so before. All our warnings and information about not going too big on the turbo can be ignored. A bigger turbo would be fine. Probably better to spend a bit more on something new rather than a stock ceramic time bomb.

Important parts underlined. The 180° bends involved in these things are certainly restrictive (compared to having the pipe come straight out). It's not a killer amount of extra restriction, but it is there. Some of them are pretty ugly designes, some a bit better. The fact that such return flow coolers cannot be as tall as a straight through, because the return pipe runs under the core (where there could be and is more core in straight throughs) means that the flow area through the core is that much smaller. That also definitely causes the flow limit of the return flows to be lower. That part is actually simple to work out. If you only get 85% of the height, you can presume that its max power capacity would be only 85% also. Core thickness and tube design, plus differences in tank design etc notwithstanding of course.

I have nearly 10 years of Redline lightweight in mine. It's fine - for a gearbox that wouldn't change gears at all with normal gear oil when we first installed it.

It was really good. Then they went and removed some front camber in the search for more caster and less toe - which probably amounts to no noticeable change. Not bent. Not even slightly bent.

I dunno. It's been >10 years since I've tried to put tyres onto a stock 32 wheel. In my size, 235/45-17, I am using Hankook RS4, which are a very decent street tyre that only need to be warmed up a little bit to come good. If I wasn't using those, I'd be using Yoko AD08R, which are still my favourite tyre of the last 10 years. If I was rich I'd probably be using Michi PS4S. If you're not fussy, then the Bridgestone RE003 is the easy choice. I wasn't impressed by them though. Very indifferent tyre with no outstanding points of performance at all.

6.5" wide wheels? 205/55 is standard. Can run 225/50 as it is exactly the same rolling diameter, and only ever so slightly on the too wide side for the rim width. 215/55 is slightly taller, will also work if you can find it.

Correct (new, not old) OEM coils and Splitfires can't really be separated for performance. I have no idea why anyone would upgrade to Splitfires these days though, given the huge number of massively better pencil coils available.

The boss is the thing that goes onto the steering column that an aftermarket wheel is then attached to. A HICAS boss is one that has the required drive pin arrangement in it to make the steering angle sensor work.

Mine was cut. Needed a patch splice soldered in to put it back the way it should be. It was supposed to be done in the compliance workshop and inspected by the rego people. I suspect that SA/Regency were more thorough about such things. Funnily enough, my car has been back through Regency since and they didn't even blink. I think they cared at compliance time because it was written down as a thing they had to check. But they probably actually only cared from a paperwork/auditability point of view and not from a technical perspective, because it's a pretty silly rule.

No. ADM R32s had a different setup with the outer of the outer as brake only, with amber indicator in the centre of the outer (instead of it just being a reflector). This because ADRs require that no permanently lit rear light may reside outboard of the rear indicator (which is what the JDM tailights have). All imported R32s are supposed to have the wire linking the tail light input to the outermost light cut, to approximate the ADM config and comply with ADRs.

What I have may not be a good recommendation for other RWD R32s. There is something a bit weird about mine and we have GTR springs to get the ride height right. KDFL-116 and KDRL-87SP. The rears there are specifically for the Aust market GTRs. The dampers have extra grooves cut on them to expand the ride height adjustability range. The valve stack is set up by SK. I'm not sure what he does - but the fronts replaced otherwise identical B6s that I already had on the car, and they were a very noticeable improvement - and I wasn't upset with the original ones!

Now is the time to talk to someone like Knight engines here in Adelaide about doing a proper job on the head, along with some nice Kiwi cams to go with the lifter conversion and the bigger valves. If you're going to start working on a head at all, you might as well do it properly. All the seats will come out, all the guides will come out. The head will be ported to within an inch of perfection and it will make 600rwHP on about 80% of the boost you would need without it.

Why? And what sort of GTR does that? R32? No. R33? No. R34? No. All have dedicated amber indicators. Besides, in a car as modern as a G37, the indicators and brakes lights and so on are all driven by the BCM. You can reprogram the BCM to flash whatever lights you want, without buying some tacky clear plastic lens Altezza uleh lights.

Oh, and front caster rods. Spherical joints only. No rubber or urethane. You'd be surprised how much these are needed to control the wheel motion (fore-aft). I have Teins in my car, but basically anything the same is going to do the job. GK-Tech possible again here.

Well, unless you're going to do something about the messed up LCA geometry that you get from going lower than ~350mm (ie, some sort of drop spindle) then the fact that the damper is unhappy at that point in its stroke is not the largest problem anyway. If you want to go low low then you're really looking at full coilovers, or if going for OEM format dampers (Blisteins or Ohlins or whatever) then you're possibly looking to see what can be made out of a damper that's intended for another car. As to your rate considerations......MCA like high spring rates and low ARB rates. SydneyKid (I have his revalved Bilsteins along with Kings springs that are essentially the same rates as SK used in his original work) likes lower rate springs and harder bars. Mine are in that 5.x & 3.x-4.x region (can't remember exactly) and I have 24mm adjustable bar at the front set on the hard end and a 22mm adjustable at the rear set......actually, I can't remember where I have it. The rear was certainly too stiff with 24mm rear adjustable set soft though. I think I probably have the 22mm set soft. My car is well set up for street. The Bilsteins have very firm damping rates and soak up a hell of a lot on their own. It seems counterintuitive, but the firmness of Bilsteins works well with lower rate springs. The ride is very absorbant. Compliant enough for reasonably rough road surfaces. But, there is no way that anything that I have under the car is good enough to work well on a track, especially with sticky tyres. Need to go up to the 12-14kg spring range at the front for that. Adjustable arms are essential. If you do not have tough, trustworthy adjustable uppers at the front, there is no point doing anything else with your suspension anyway. Look to the GKTech FUCAs for this. Then you ned good droplinks for the bars, and at least adjustable rear uppers and tension rods, along with building and using a bumpsteer gauge to set them up properly.

Still available. Straight from Germany too, I should think (given that you're in Europe, right?). B8 better again, although possibly not for RWD 32s. Ask a Bilstein supplier what they can do for you. Not as good as Bilstein anyway, despite adjustability. No knowledge or care (for the Nismo, anyway). Ohlins would surely be possible, if built up to spec. It's just a question of money. These are shit anyway. Who cares? f**k Jap coilovers to the moon. As above, although they do seem to have a lot of fans here. See 5 & 6. To what end? Just going to end up with f**ked out versions of stuff I wouldn't want anyway. The answer, here in AU, is MCA coilovers, or at least one or two other options. There are always good damper builders everywhere. 'Twere I you, I'd just talk directly to Bilstein here in Oz, or MCA or Shockworks, and just pay to get them shipped. A couple hundred bucks to ship them across the world is only ~10% of the cost of the gear.

Yeah, but given that you're very unlikely to get what you want, you should probably get what you can.

Like. What?