GTSBoy

The rod ends that GK-Tech use are pretty good, in terms of mechanical strength (and max articulation angle, and PTFE lining, and rubber boots, etc). You may well have given it a hot supper though. If it was not tightened while centered and had lots of toe-in there could/would/should have been some nasty loads applied to it.

Usually they warp because they got soft because they got cooked. But there are obviously a bunch of ways this can happen.

My suggestion is.....when you tightened it up you ended up with the spherical joint hard up against one side. You have to be real careful with these to make sure that the ball is centred when the arm is on, tight and sitting at ride height. If it is hard up against one side, or has very little travel left on one side, then when you move the joint in that direction it changes from a beraring to a pin joint instantly and you get all the torque on tha arm applied across the section of the thread.

Given that the clips snap into place when installing, I'm pretty sure that they don't come out from under the trim. I think the sliding movement to release them just squishes them so that they flex and their tangs come out from under the lip they hook onto. I've had them off about 20 years ago. Just fiddled around with the screwdriver until they released.

It's all in the manual

Why not just look at the diagrams and put it back the way it is supposed to be instead of worrying about it? I swear, the things that cause threads in this place.

That will depend on why it warped. If the head bolts loosened at that end....

No need to add the extra hardware. The Haltech can ring all the bells and blink all the lights you will ever want.

Check the battery in the remote first. Just pull it out and use an (assume 3V) cell to test it with, even if you have to use pokey wires to make contact. 2x AA batteries will do the job if you need, or dig into the kitchen scales, bike computer, TV remote, etc, to find a CR2032 or whatever matches the remote's battery. It's quite possible that the thing has done a panic and locked the immobiliser. You would be advised to work out what model the alarm is and google the instructions to find out what sort of rain dance you're supposed to do to fix it.

Yes, but there are inevitably differences in what the engine harness connects to on the body side. You need to work through both harnesses and sort out the differences. So, actually, the answer is no, if you just want to drop it in. You will need to generate a 0-5v square wave speed signal to give to the ECU and other computers so they don't freak out. The ECU less so, seeing as you're using Haltech, but the ABS computer (and auto TCU if present) will want it. The stock speedo head does this for you, and if you remove it..... The differences you will need to sort out pertain to alternator wiring, air-con wiring (if you're going to use R34 parts), gearbox loom wiring possibly, plus the probably differences in the ECCS relays and other relays near the ECU.

Dash gauge MAP sensor. Sensor mounts on that stud behind your hand in that photo.

I've had my R32 since last century and it typically gets an oil change every 14 months/10-12k. And nothing bad is happening to it. 5000km oil changes are yet another paranoid fantasy.

There's a difference between A turbo genuinely not having proper boost control and overboosting, A turbo making boost on one run and not making boost on another, The ECU or a sensor cracking the shits and not working consistently. Work out whichever it is, then start fixing that.

This task is so easy that it is not even worth discussing. The answers were known LAST CENTURY!

You also need to do something fancy about the refrigerant pressure switch. The R32 one is 2 wire, I think the R34 one is 3 wire, and I think the R34 ECU doesn't want to work with the R32 switch. Needs some extra wire and a diode, or something else not too hard, but annoying to work out. Was done on mine, but I can't remember exactly what. Was 10 years ago.

Bad choices of words. On RB26s, because there is a direct shot from the turbo flanges at 2 of the exhaust ports, there have been many recorded instances of chunks of ceramic turbine getting up into the cylinders and causing carnage.

Resleeve it.

Said it before, will obviously have to say it again. An NA auto Skyline is a perfect candidate for a proper motor conversion. That would be an LS3 + TR6060.

Is there a way we could broadcast this to the entire world (ie the US)? Just for giggles, understand.

Don't make the mistake of thinking that the higher temperature numbers (ie 4300K, 5500K) mean the light is better, if that is what you were thinking. The light output of an HID is a function of the ballast. The capsule has to be able to take the drive power, but the ballast pretty much sets the drive power.

Oil control thread stickied at the top of the forum gives the recipe. Rear head drains don't offer enough. You need to add big direct vents hoses from sump (above oil level) to cam covers, to allow the gases to flow up there, while the oil sneaks back down the original holes in the head/block.

That's not quite true, but true enough for this particular application. You certainly can't replace the HID capsule with an LED source in existing headlights. But there are certainly very many LED headlights available now. Ignoring the shit that dribbles out of chinafactorybackdoor#3, some of these are even very good. If you have HID projectors in a popular enough car, there is likely to be a kit to change them to LED. You can get 100% LED replacement headlights for R32, for example, and the LEDs are probably close on as good as good HIDs. I won't disagree on the colour temperature, but it's actually more the CRI (colour reproduction index) that is the biggest problem with LEDs. Because white LEDs use phosphors to produce a stripe of red, a stripe of green and a stripe of blue, with nothing else from the visible spectrum in there, you get this horrible flat light that doesn't show up contrast in different colours. Shine a conventional light onto the bushes etc on the side of the road and you can see the different greens. With LEDs, all those greens end up looking the same sort of colourless grey. That's where they need to improve. All modern cars with LED headlights are tiring to drive because of this, no matter how good the LEDs are otherwise in terms of brightness and pattern.

I would have said it was not verboten. A nuanced interpretation of the "rules" suggests that it is quite reasonable to point out such discrepancies. More to the point, I would have thought that you could read English and therefore would be able to understand that point that was being made. To whit, if you can't prove what's in it, then it probably isn't justified to ask what you're asking. As such I was indicating that the onus of proof is on the seller. I also mentioned that the buyer should put as much effort into deciding the value as they feel prepared to. Um, yep. As the onus of proof is on you, you could possibly have waited until you had such proof before going in with your strong price point. If you have hedged your bets and decided that your price point was partway between what it might be worth with proof, and what a reasonable buyer might think it's worth without, then you have done yourself a disservice because it would be difficult to increase your opening price in this advert. Cart before horse, etc etc.

I'm with Ben. Without demonstration, the value is arguably less than the asking price. Caveat emptor has always been the watchword. People are free to approach such a sale and purchase however they want.

There's no such thing. Aftermarket fuel pump is aftermarket. Any time you buy an aftermarket pump, you will always have to something to make it fit. Some are trivial, some take 5s more work.