GTSBoy

It's not a dumb question. I was circling this idea myself. User error is always possible!

Nope. The seal is in the drive. A new cable would just fill up and continue to convey oil to the speedo head. To check if this is what is happening, take the cluster out, dismantle the speedo and have a look. You probably don't even have to dismantle it. If there is oil coming up the cable, the drive into the speedo will be grossly greasy. I had to manually (and delicately) clean the gunk out of my speedo.

Yeah, my offer was more to show exactly how rough and ready the rig can be and still be useful. Youtube vids will definitely show cleaner setups. Same concept though.

I would guess the seal has gone down at the speedo drive and gearbox oil has crept up the drive cable sheath and fouled the speedo head.

H2 (for cars) will never happen. It's not reasonable for any number of reasons. It's also not reasonable for almost all of the industrial uses that the fanbois say that it will be used for, again for a large number of reasons. There are some cases where it will be good. But, even those will be massively hampered by the economics. The only way that H2 can be economic is if we somehow manage to get from where we are to the other side of the economic-valley-of-death in which no-one can operate. You need there to be sufficient renewable generated electricity to be available so that it is effectively free. Once you are there, you can do whatever the hell you want and hang the efficiency. But until you get there, the ever diminishing value of electricity makes it harder and harder to encourage businesses to build the new generation capacity, and they will simply stop investing in generation projects. (I kinda think there needs to be just government money spent on building the required capacity in a non-commercial way, similar to how the first fossil fueled grids were built, as national-government owned utilities. And probably some nuclear in there to start. But this all should have started 10-15 years ago to avoid the chasm of death that we face right now). Synth fuels will be much more likely, but will only occur is there is at least some renewable H2 production, because you need H2 to do it. And you need stacks of free (or at least extraordinarily cheap) energy because assembling molecules back into fuels is exactly the opposite process to burning the fuel, and the reason we burn fuels is because there is so much energy squeezed into each molecule. So you're somewhat subject to the same economic valley of death problem as above anyway. That is unless people are willing to pay the current equivalent of $5 or $6 per litre of petrol-ish liquid fuels. Can you imagine it? The squealing at $2 now is bad enough.

You reckon? I have to disagree. Notwithstanding that at some point we may all be forced to do this to our cars if we want to keep driving them, there is absolutely nothing about an electric-converted-previously-IC-car that is ever good. EVs that are built by OEMs on platforms that were originally IC already suck, let alone the shitty outcomes that result from doing it as a retro to something that was actually built as an IC car. This is because the platform really needs to be designed to house the battery in a useful place (ie, down as low as possible) and the motors are properly located relative to the wheels that they have to drive. Converted platforms already suck at this. But when you try to shove sufficient battery capacity into a previously IC car, you can't put it down on/in the floor, because that space doesn't exist. You can't find enough space where the fuel tank used to be (if it is an inboard fuel tank) and you don't want to hang it out behind the rear axle line if you had a rear fuel tank. And there's not enough space in the tunnel if you still want to use it for anything remotely like what it was originally used for. The engine bay is too big for a motor, and you'd really prefer that the motor for the rear wheels wasn't in the front engine bay anyway. And there's not enough room where the diff was for a proper man-sized E motor. And then.... there is the complete lack of soul and emotion that is provided by EVs. There are some cracking restomods out there. Like the Alfaholics GTA thingo. But it is petrol powered. Look at the alternative EV version of a GTA restomod by Totem. it is jaw droppingly beautiful. But by all reports is is objectively awful to drive, despite having 600 HP or something, simply because there is nothing there. It sounds like a sewing machine or a leaf blower. It should scream and wail and make the hairs on your neck stand up. Oh, and it's 1500 bloody kg in a car that was <900kg when new. GTRs are heavy enough as it is without pushing them up to 2tonnes worth of pork.

The only way to make that better is to weld on some bozozoku tips up past window height and roll with the cool kids.

It be 40°C outside lately. 10W60 is a good idea here. Well, certainly 10W50.

I probably should. Then I can discipline myself.

This is all good. In the worst case we could just report threads and put the "for library" into the report. But anything better than that will defo be better. By definition! Meanwhile, I am going to test R32 GTR wiring diagram. And of course it doesn't work because you used R32 wiring diagram. But that's cool.

Of course you can. That was a waste. Straight down one oil drain gallery and out the sump hole. Could at least have run the engine a little (obviously with at least minimum oil level on the stick).

Barrels don't need to be shiny clean. But they are certainly nicer when they are not polluted with years of brake dust, and worse the rotting corpses of the last 17 balance weight sticky pads scattered all around.

Yeah, type a special character like ^ or | to initiate the equivalent of the "at"ing for thread links. Although, it might not get any easier to manage. Imagine 30 or 40 threads that kinda match what you want, and the one you want is lost after a long list of useless ones. The magic keyword version I proposed would be a manual effort to set up each case. More of a directed effort from the greybeards to facilitate exposure of useful content. I'm not against the auto complete stuff being considered - maybe por que no los dos? (And where I said "triggered automatically" in my OP, I meant "triggered accidentally". Of course I want it to be automatic!!)

I have a wheel cleaner pokie thing which is a glorified microfibre rag on a stick, and there is not sufficient clearance between the caliper and the barrel to clean that section. I just roll the car forward 500mm and have another shot at each wheel.

Hmmm.... It's actually a bit weird. Here's the key bit of the diagram. I've circled what I'm pretty sure is the high beam indicator on the cluster. It appears to be just in parallel with one of the high beam lamp globes. Meaning, that however the high beams get lit, the indicator should also be lit. So there shouldn't be any difference between being on normal headlight main beam, or just flashing. I've followed the physical diagram (which is not so easily summarised in a single snip, so I didn't put it up here) and it agrees with what you can see here. If you struggle to follow this crap....let me explain some of it. I always struggle when I first look at this - even though I have looked specifically at this more than once in the past. We'll start with the flash. The flash is triggered by pulling the dip switch back, right? That is indicated on the diagram by the P position on the switch block labelled "Light SW", on the RHS of the snip. The bottom-right most terminal is connected to ground. That's that wire line going down to the bottom. The next terminal up is connected to the bottom terminal when the switch is pulled back. That provides ground to wire LA33, which is connected to the coil of the relay in the middle of the snip, "Headlamp relay (2M)". That relay always has power on the other side of the coil, from fuse #19 above it. When that relay is triggered, the two main headlamp fuses #32 & #33 above feed through the relay down onto wires LA31 and LA32, which are connected into the wires that go to the main beams, LA04 and LA06. The cluster indicator is connected to LA32 also. When the main beams are on normally, the light switch ("Light SW" again) is in the M position. Power comes in for the left and right sides on LA34 and LA36, via the other light switch (the one on the binnacle, called "Light SW (Instrument)" on the diagram). Obviously that switch needs to be in the 2nd position, because that's headlights. 1st position is parkers. The same main headlamp fuses #32 & #33 feed through that switch, out via LA34&36 to the stalk switch, and of out of the stalk switch via LA04 and LA06 to the headlamps. From there, it is no different to the flasher version. I really don't know why they bothered with the flash relay. They probably didn't want to add another contact in the stalk switch - but I'm damn sure that's what I would have done. Just reverse the order of power feed, so that it goes from the fuses to the stalk switch first, and add another contact for flashing. Everything would have worked just the same, but less complicated. /bitchrant

Hi, We've all posted some thread, or know of some other person's thread, that contains information that we want to send people who are asking question to. But if we don't have a link readily available, have to go do a search for the thread before being able to do so. So, it occurred to me that we could possibly utilise the auto-text-replace function that fixes some of my swear words to perhaps auto replace some special keywords with text that also has a link to the thread. A specific example. The thread that I did with the improved R32 GTR wiring diagram scans. If the phrase "R32 GTR wiring diagram" could be auto replaced with "R32 GTR wiring diagram" then all I (or @Duncan, or any of the others that refer to the thread) need to do is remember that that's the keyword (or phrase in this case). OK, it would be better if this keyphrase wasn't that long, but it does need to be specific enough that it doesn't get triggered automatically. And obviously there are threads on turbo topics, or suspension topics that we could treat similarly. Alternatively (and/or additionally), I've been thinking about trying to build a library of the real expert content that is trapped in the bowels of the 25odd years of this site. Things like some of SydneyKid's content. There are threads that he started that should be more easily found, and he has individual posts, or series of posts, in other people's threads, containing very good information. Some of us know that it is there, but....just have no memory of exactly where/when/how we saw it. If we had some sort of library thread, we could put posts in there containing links to things we've found, suggestions for how to categorise it, then a mod or other appointed thread maintainer can copy the link and any key text up into the first post in the library thread. There are probably many other ways to get it done. Some sort of wiki is probably the best way. Thoughts?

I suspect you probably need to connect to both, possibly with diodes in each side to prevent backfeeding. You really should be able to see how they did it originally in the wiring diagram.

There's a thread over on PF.com where this has already been beaten to death. I make this point only because the report that you're referring to is already out of date. They have walked back some of the silliness, including the need to apply for (and risk losing the application fee, if not granted) a permit to work on your own car on your own land. But there is still a lot of silliness left remaining. Victoria is a f**king shithole. Has been since way before we started calling it Brackistan. f**king nimby woke Stalinist nightmare of a place.

Haha. Good work. I feel some of your pain because I spent a bunch of time under my car over the period too. Probably nowhere near as much as you did. My happiness is similarly improved by obtaining a desired result though. Those side skirts are.....hecking. Very unfriendly for street and hoist. Sounds to me like you've made a cart that needs to be driven up only planks/blocks at a 2 post hoist, rather than trying to get it up onto a 4 poster. It's very pretty, by the way. Somewhat reminiscent of Marty's squid ink on SuperGramps - at least in the photos.

They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.

Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.

Hmm. Yes. I should have been clearer. 1000s for Haltech, for extra headroom. 725s for Nistune. You might even be OK with 640s, but if the possible power ends up much more than 300 rwkW you will run out of headroom on the 640s. That would probably be OK and a signal to not push it to that sort of power with Nistune anyway. At that level you probably do want to be thinking about engine protection functions. Oh, and all of that presumes 98 only, not E85. Well....the 1000s would allow you to run E85 at ~300rwkW territory, again, maybe sort of running out of headroom. Hard to tell with E85 - depends on the tuner as to how rich they like to set it up.

If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.

3 or 4 8-balls in the sump?