GTSBoy

This should be pretty easy. 200rwkW is just about the max power out of an RB25 stock turbo. So, 12ish psi on a 2.5L. That boost limited mainly by the prospect of seeing the turbine in the cat after the smoke show. A steel wheeled equivalent would likely happily do ~220rwkW at something like 17 psi, where it would probably be bumping into the usual limits of such a sized turbo. These things have like a .48 rear. You will not need the 0.86 rear. The 0.64 will be fine. In fact, if you were looking at various mid-200rwkW options for RBs, most of them would be in a 0.64 rear. So, I think you will definitely want to be no bigger than that for a same sized but probably even more efficient (at making power) modern engine.

It is possible to do this stuff for "cheap". But you need to be able to get deals on all the bigger items, and it really helps if you're fully capable of doing your own work. As soon as you're paying retail for new parts, or buying "kits" because you can't fabricate necessary bits and pieces, and if you really need someone else to take the reins of doing the work because you don't have the space/time/skills/confidence to rip deep into the car and put it back together in a working fashions.....then you pay. And these days, pay means a lot of money. You'd think things would get cheaper, but they don't. They just seem to keep getting more and more expensive.

I'll take clutch for 50 Eddie.

Just as bad, if not worse.

First up, I presume you mean a G35? And... This is not a 900HP fuel pump. and Why would you do this to yourself? and Almost certainly. Time for some pencil coils. It's money well spent, so long as you don't stay stuck in the 90s and consider something other than the usual Jap suspects.

Yes, while being... strictly unnecessary. Tuning is a bit like quantum physics. You don't need to understand what Schroedinger's equation actually means. You just need to run the computation and accept the answers. With tuning, you just push page up/down until the exhaust tells you that you've got the fuel right. The VE can stay hidden behind the curtain like the Wizard of Oz and you'll never need to know what he looked like.

That's a reward in some circles.

Not to mention, that the correct diagnostic approach to "electrical thing does not work" is to start with what I outlined above. You only do swaptronics for things that can't be tested really easily, like ignition coils, AFMs, etc etc. And even then you hold your breath in case the fault that possibly killed the original unit kills the swapped in unit too.

No info.

Zero will do.

It will blow out fast. $3k for turbo, could easily be a bit more. $2k for manifold, at the lower end, and therefore likely to be more. $1k for dump, could easily be more. $1k for coating these things, really should be done. $1k for desirable extras, like EGT ports, EMP ports, heat shielding. Hell, probably more like $2k. You get close to $10k just for the main parts, without pipework fab, gaskets, fasteners, labour. $15k is rock bottom. If you need intercooler, fuel system, clutch, ECU, you're pushing $30k. It is just too easy to spend money.

I'll say bad things about the shit lottery that is Yellow Jackets.

Yes, those exactly, either angled, or straight ones. I just dug one of my f**ked up old stock arms out of the crap box. 2 views, showing nipples added in places where they were accessible while installed at both ends of the arm, without clashing with anything else on the car (ie the upright, the inner guard, etc). Circled in red.

Just install a grease nipple into the centre of the outer steel of the FUCA. Make sure the bushes aren't long enough to touch each other underneath that nipple. Cut a few mm off each if need be. Then you can push grease in there while it is all assembled. That was the very first thing I did (to all 4 ends) of the FUCAs on my 32 when I put Whiteline adjustable bushes into them. They would squeeze the grease out real fast, and I could squeeze it back in faster.

Small analogue delay circuit with a relay. Just need a trigger, say, fuel pump running for more than 5s or so? Or, you could go full mental and write a sketch for an Arduino.

Even though I have some pretty good (brand) ratchet ringies, I avoid using them to break open tight bolts. A broken ratchet is very annoying.

Also, there's always room for 4 or 5 3/8" drive wobble extensions of various lengths so you can operate the ratchet from a better location.

Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!

Exactly how he said. Place blocks under the tyres to lift the car while the wheels are still carrying all the weight. It only needs to go up 6-8" to give sufficient clearance to get to most things. Or.... 4 post hoist rather than 2 post. I don't trust 2 post hoists at the best of times. Or, a pit. Pits a re good. I grew up in the '70s, in pits. f**k the OH&S rules. Pits rule.

I was driving behind an FG (or something similar) Falcon ute with a shopping trolley wing (1/3 the height of that ^ one) on the back end of the hard cover....and it took me 5s to realise I wasn't looking at an NSX. f**king bogans.

Can perhaps see how the R33 appreciators would think so.

I think you might have skipped a whole vowel sounds there C.

What do you mean by "test"? It sounds like you're just switching things on and off that you already know don't work. Get the wiring diagram and a multimeter and start looking for power where there is supposed to be power and earth where there is supposed to be earth. Look for continuity across switches that are otherwise unresponsive, etc etc.

The Neat gears use an alternative profile, no? Something different to what normal OEM stuff is. Is the noise at all traceable to that? Reason I ask is that my CW&P are effectively past their use by bate and Neat is the obvious option.

Everything looks worse with tri-spokes.