GTSBoy

You're a bit weird Greg.

This doesn't make sense unless your car is a bit bent in some way and requires adjustable arms to provide even camber left to right. What arms are on it?

This is an R34, yeah? I'd either just buy new bushes, or do what I have done (on R32) and go sphericals. I am having Stockholm Syndrome with my spherical bushes.

Which bush, where, and how frayed was the surface that you put grease back onto?

I'd drool over a HG Kingswood before I'd drool over an NSX. FD absolutely the bets looking. R32 GTR vs A80 Supra fighting for 2nd place, although GTR looks the goods with no mods and an A80 needs at least wheels, lowering, and the right colour to look the best. GTR looks good on stock wheels and in any factory colour.

Nah. I've always thought the tail of the NSX was too long. I mean....it's not a bad looking thing, but it is very bland by comparison to the things it was supposed to take down (Italian supercars), and... it sounds like a V6. And not an ALFA V6 either. A Japanese V6.

Obvious thread is obvious.

OK. But what about parts of the block that, when assembled, were twisted into a position that pushed into the void space, which, when disassembled, then released that force and opened back up, thus putting the grout into tension? Would effectively just pull the cast iron off the grout at the interface, leaving a tiny void and benefitting not much at all. Swings, and roundabouts. It's like putting something tiny into the fleshlight and finding out you needed a smaller one, to perhaps follow your area of expertise.

Nah. You buy a kit that has shorter tubes.

I think you'll find we're confused about what you were trying to do and how you were doing it. I would have thought that block rigidity was something you measured while loading the block in beam or in torsion, and that you would do so before and after grout filling, to see if putting material in there created a "composite" construction with the expected rigidity increase. Notwithstanding that the true function of grout is less about gross rigidity than local (ie preventing bore deflection/splitting and tying the bores to the main bearing locations a little better, etc etc). It is nearly impossible to follow your description of what you've done without closing ones eyes and making "aliens" hand shapes in front of oneself to try to follow the manipulations you've made. It's still unclear to me what you were trying to prove.

Por qué no los dos? Body colour red with black stripes down centre, onto bonnet and bootlid.

Well, if that filter was impeding fluid flow, then it could have similar effects to faulty solenoids. The TCU will register a fault when it does something (ie, changes the state of a solenoid) and does not detect the required result. If there are other causes that can make the same lack of result, then they will be indistinguishable to the expected cause for which the TCU has a code.

Yellowjackets, red ones, blue ones (other than Splitfire) have all been demonstrated to be unreliable on turbo engines. That unreliability can be anything from outright failure (ie, 4 out of a set of 6 working out of the box) to just not being strong enough for the task, on a boosted engine. Not enough of us care about NA engines to know whether that unreliability is an issue for the undemanding needs of an NA RB20. I should think though that the DIS-008 should fit the 20. There's not really any reason for the head/coil mounting area to be any different on those 2 Neos. I wouldn't be buying Splitfires, or any other old tech coilpack, for a car in this day and age though. I would buy modern pencil coils and do what needs to be done to adapt them to the loom. That's relatively trivial these days, with numerous kits for fitting R35, or Audi, or Yaris/Corolla coils.

For any loom connector that has an obvious release that resists pushing far enough to unclip, just spray some silicone lube into it. You might also benefit from using a bent screwdriver or small pick to push in the right place at the right angle.

Would seem to me to be appropriate to go GTR style bar. There are options with and without N1 vent holes, with the GTR lower lip integral (because FG copy). https://justjap.com/search?q=r32 bumper

I only drive the car that needs 98 (and currently would probably prefer 100!). The RAV and the Swifts can burn whatever the female family members put in them and I won't comment. They (the cars) are beneath my level of care, in the same category as air fryers and having your nails done.

Or, while it's nearly as hard to find - an RB25 is the only thing to put in if the RB20 is dead.

I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.

You're making my point for me. 95 is not "premium". It is a "slightly higher octane" version of the basic 91 product. The premium product that they want people to buy (for all the venal corporate reasons of making more profit, and all the possibly specious reasons of it being a "better" fuel with nicer additive packages) is the 98 octane stuff. 95 is the classic middle child. No-one wants it. No-one cares about it. It is just there, occupying a space in the product hierarchy.

95 is just a scam outright. 98 is the real "premium" with all the best detergents and other additive packages, and at least historically, used to be more dense also. 95 is just 91 bargain basement shit with a little extra octane rating. Of course, there's 91 and there's 91 also. I always (back in the 90s early 2000s) refused to put fuel in from supermarket related fuel chains on the basis that it was nasty half arsed shit imported from Indonesia. Nowadays, I suspect that there is little difference between the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the "bargain" chains and the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the big brands, given that most of it is coming from the same SEAsian refineries. Anyway - if there's still anything to that logic, then it would apply to 95 also. 98 is only made in decent refineries and, as I said, is usually the "premium" fuel, both in terms of octane rating and "use this because it's good for your engine because it's got the unicorn jizz in it!".

Any number of different ways. Have the coils draw sufficient current to provide contact wetting. Use different contacts in the switch, either by material or design, better suited to the low current drawn by a relay coil. Etc.

Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.

Bugger "making it look stock". I put one conventional internally fused Hella relay behind each globe. I just pulled the plugs off the back of the globes and built new loom segments with male and female plug parts to match up to the original loom and the globe, and used the original power wires to each globe coming from the switch through the original loom plug to trigger the relays. Ran a big fat (also separately fused) power wire across the front of the car to feed all the relays. It's as ugly as f**k, but it is wedged down between the headlight and battery on the RHS and the airbox and headlight on the LHS, and no-one ever looks in my engine bay, and on the odd occasion that they do I simply give no f**ks for what they think. Fully reversible - not that you'd ever want to. For f**k's sake. It's a Skyline. They made million of the bloody things. We've been crashing them into roadside furniture for 30 years now. There is a negative side effect to putting relays on the headlights. The coil current is too little to properly clean the contacts in the switches and they get blacked up and you have to open them up every couple of years and clean them manually. I have 25 years of experience on this point.

About a quarter of what you want to do. It's only R7R, not R&dismantle&replaceparts&reassemble&R. ? It is stock. I already told you, you will NOT have broken those. It's f**king 4th gear for Christ's sake. You just chipped the teeth off.

Little hose. Big hose. They're all waiting to kill the engine.