GTSBoy

It won't likely matter where along the cam covers you put the big fittings. I would suggest putting them on the sides if you can, simply because it will reduce the flow up through the baffles and thus reduce the amount of oil that gets put into the foam. It might not matter, but it seems like something to consider as a worthwhile thing to avoid.

And that's a massive problem, because deadshits will deadshit and give you false details. At least in these days of mobile cameraphones, it is trivial to take photos of any ID they are carrying at the same time as the 300 photo extensive documentation of the state of the vehicles that I recommend even for minor incidents. And you get photos of the person's face, any visible tatoos, etc etc, while you're at it. Then you try to avoid mentioning that you're fully capable of making explosives of various power levels and will wreck their shit if you are forced to hunt them down.

No, but they will be WAAAAAAY too high. You will never get your ticket.

6 months since you bought it. 30 years since it was built! You have to reach 10 posts first. One of our anti-spam anti-dickhead workarounds.

You just say that the premium increase seems particularly excessive (no pun intended) and that the value decrease seems unwarranted. You say that it's not 2005 any more, and that these days Skylines are generally owned and insured only by those that have demonstrated an ability to keep them in one piece across decades, and are therefore not the horrible risk that used to be assumed. etc.

It's the adhesive holding the ceramic wheel to the shaft the fails on 90% of them.

It is an absolute lottery. They can and have died at stock boost with low usage at all. The turbos are now anywhere up to 36 years old!

Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.

10 psi. 11-11.5 at the extreme max. Perfectly safe, just smoky, if not retuned.

Am guessing the "steering wheel shroud/cover" you're after is actually the steering column shroud?

Shannons absolutely require Skylines to be garaged. And I guess anything else that they feel has a higher theft interest level than less .... wantable? .... things like Falcons and Libertys.

This is typically the case with such threads. What I cannot quite get my head around is where a reading above 12V (or 13.8 or 14.x or whatever the maximum achievable voltage might actually be in that specific car) comes from. 25V or 30V should be completely impossible. There's no way to create it. Hard to answer that question. It will literally depend on whether the current tune relies on the values as set. I'd guess it probably does. ie, the real base pressure being 49 means that the flowrate through the injectors will be higher than if it was 43.5. The Haltech's modelling should be handling that, but because it thinks the pressure is only 43.5, then..... I dunno. It should be thinking that it will be injecting less fuel with each pulse duration than is actually happening. So, something is definitely not-as-it-should-be, but specifically what that is is beyond my abilities to imagine. Someone like Dose who spends more time with Haltechs might have a better thought.

I understand your sarcastic exasperation. But to be fair - the baffles do indeed fit OEM cam covers. They did omit to say that you need to do a bunch of stuff. But they do fit them.

Priced to move, at only $67k?

Not far. If all you want to do is know that they will reciprocate and move oil around a tiny bit, then a metre or so is all you need. Half metre fore and aft is enough.

That's the spirit!

I stick with Shannons through inertia and because they had to accept some things about insuring my car that they didn't really want to, but had to when their parent absorbed my previous insurer and forced me into their portfolio. I might struggle to convince anyone else to take that on for the moment.

There's no good RB25s lying around either. A blown RB20 is a good time to build it to take 35psi and give it a twin-charge using a nice screw compressor and a big fat turbo. Blower makes it act like a 3L and turbo makes that act like a 6L.

You may well find that there is a big air bubble in there and plenty more coolant will be swallowed once it starts. So keep the bottle handy. If you can roll it back and forth, you can make the pistons go up and down a bit by putting it in 3rd or 4th and giving it a shove.

Well, that's just wierd. Amongst a string of seemingly benign introduction and request for help threads, we have this one with a link.... to another, unrelated thread inside this forum. Colour me suspicious.

It's pretty filthy. Same same. ie, fithy. The stock ECU has an amazingly good filter on the CAS signal.

Hmm. Tough one. Without knowing where the conductivity value is supposed to sit, it's hard to know whether a standard DMM set to an available ohms setting would be able to measure anything. Ohms being the inverse of what we're talkng about and probably good enough for the girls I go out with. But if you want to go all hoity toity with a 4 wire rig - go ahead. It can only be more accurate - just in case more accuracy or repeatability turns out to be required. If you're going to the effort, just go chuck the ohm-mage probes into the car's reservoir and see if you can measure anything at all?

You can lose information about timing at 50 thou, but the centrelines will still measure up correctly.

Hmm. Two terminals. Probably just conductivity. If you knew the shape of the curve, you could probably just do it with a multimeter.

I'm sure there are specific hygrometers for it. But if you can just throw a high enough ranged temp sensor (theromcouple that came with your DMM, for example) into a pot of it on the BBQ, you can see when it boils.