SargeRX8

Can someone give a map of good cruising target afr's? my car choughs and struggles with tiny throttle, what needs to be corrected to fix that

I have not changed anything in relation to the tune since this started. I installed my wideband sensor into the stock location, replacing the old narrowband and that was it. I do feel my CAS may be failing due to starting issues but do not have a spare to test it. The noise is being detected from the rear so I am leaning towards gearbox or starter noise. I don't get false readings when driving, only the startup knock and like the hummmmmmm which reads 3+ knock all the time(which now isn't a problem since I snapped that wire lol).

I just accidentally, and probably subconsciously intentionally, ripped out the wire from the rear knock sensor. No more funny readings. No more high knock readings, no more constant readings.... And now no more knock sensor watching the back 3 cylinders... f**k. That clip is f**king impossible to get to. I'm going to buy a second hand sensor and try get the old one out and a new one in. Edit: f**k AGAIN. It just read 60 knock on f**king startup. The knock sensor must be too far from the rear of the motor to pick up that other noise the rear one was picking up. Now I f**ked my rear sensor for nothing. FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK

My starter motor is fairly tight on there. I just pulled out the first knock sensor, its still reading the constant values. There is no way in hell I can reach the second one at the back of the motor so I am going to check the pinout on the ECU and measure the voltage of both of them. There is nothing I could have done to cause this which is why its annoying me. Yesterday I got it to read 90 knock with the fuel and spark disabled from the fuel pump and from the coil packs. Today I disabled everything my removing the CAS wire, and it wouldn't knock no matter how long I cranked it. I plugged it back in and on the first engine turn, before it started spluttering or coughing, it read 100knock. I hope there isn't something wrong... If I could reach that rear knock sensor it would be sweet because then I can pinpoint the fault at the rear knock sensor or noise coming from the rear of the block.

Ill be tightening anything I feel is loose, including the knock sensors. Apparently they should read 4v so ill test them too. They are picking up CONSTANT noise. No more sitting at 0 or 1, they are always on at least 3 when just idling and jittering up and down when touching the throttle.

You don't need to do a leak down test, a compression test will tell you if you have a leaking cylinder.

It can be dodgy afm. 2krpm is the limp mode for the car. If it has a stock ECU stick a consult in it and see if has any issues. Do you get any engine check light? Could be many things causing this, boost leak, dodgy accelerator cable not opening the throttle, faulty afm, faulty injectors, misfire etc.

Ive got the very similar, if not the same problem with my car. Ive got a Series 2 R33 Rb25Det. Fairly modded, with all the bolt ons and this shit started recently. Only happens on first cold start, car will start and bog to very low rpm then either die or fire up if I give it some throttle. If it switches off, it starts just fine second time. I had a 2nd hand GTR pump in there, so I pulled that out and put a brand new 040. No luck. I cleaned my AAC, no luck. Ive tried resetting my power fc, no luck. I haven't tried a different AFM. I haven't tried a different CAS. I haven't tried a different water temp sensor, and it is actually very common for the water temp sensor to be causing this problem. It is also common that it could be a vacuum leak, but I have sealed up my whole intake with no change. I also get the drop in RPM when backing off, might drop a couple hundred rpm then rise up, sometimes it might stall. Ive got the stock BOV too. I would NOT think it is the fuel pump. The fuel pump will be at most strain under full load where it wont be able to provide fuel to the engine, cause leaning and probably knock its arse off. My car runs perfect under boost. If it wasn't for this dodgy cold start, I wouldn't have any issues. Someone suggested leaky injectors but mine are brand new Nismos. I am really leaning towards the water temp sensor. Google search Skyline or R33 won't start first time and similar search terms. You will get alot of responses with different solutions. I am going to reset my tune again and start all over. The drop in RPM between gear changes could be too much fueling and not enough air so pulling fuel out can fix that issue. Are you using the standard ECU?

Can I unplug one at a time and see if one is giving the problem? Are they reachable with the engine in the car?

It done it when spark and fuel were removed too.

My car was fine a of yesterday afternoon. I went to work then started it up after that. Car read 100 knock on startup. I reset my power fc max values and now my knock sensor will not read 1 or 0. It sits on 3 to 4 and tiny idle revs will raise it to 10. It is always hearing something. This is bad as I can no longer use this reliably. Everytime my car starts it gets 70+ knock. It hasn't done this in a very long time, since my fuel pump failed. Any ideas? Its an rb25det unopened.

I got my wideband today. Just fiddling with it, my idle was around 11.3. I went to lean it out a little and in the FC Edit, I had to set my cell for that idle cell close to 17, almost 18 just to get the engine close to stoich... Why are they so far out? What is a good idle afr? Does anyone have a target AFR for the whole board? I am thinking of retuning my whole injector map by resetting my tune, adjusting injector settings for my nismos, setting the afm to z32 and then copying my whole ignition map across and dropping ignition by a couple degrees then richening up the ignition table and start adjusting. Good or bad start?

Before you do that try an intake pressure test. If you can eliminate leaks and the motor, which you have, then it would be safe to say the turbo isn't creating boost.

I would have thought that since the runners are further back, the air would be forced into the cylinders closer first but after thinking of it logically, the air would be gushing to the path of least resistance so it would be building up at the back of the plenum.

I am fairly sure its a flaw in the RB26 intake manifold due to the cylinder being the furthest away. What I don't understand though is why it would cause a lean condition and not a rich one...

STATUS: Did you get my email containing my current tune?

You use the harness and ECU for the head you are using. Run an Rb25 series 2 head, use rb25 series 2 loom and ecu. Run the Rb26, us the 26 loom and ecu. They can be hacked up to work around other ways etc but its the easiest to make things fit.

His motor is level 3 armour, it does 4 damage and consumes magic. Just don't be stupid with it. Stock tune is so safe its almost impossible to cause engine damage. Engine damage from a failing turbo, well, thats a different story.

Compression test, you need to eliminate the motor from the equation.

Is it really free? I do play some NFS on PC, ill take it if no one else wants it. I'm just at Parra.

They won't ever focus properly. The length, thickness, throw etc of the bulb is a complete mismatch to the reflector in your car.

Do a compression test, you will know if your headgasket is out. So when you flat foot it, no matter what rpm you are at, you don't make any boost? Can you hear the turbo spooling? if you can hear the turbo spooling, I would say the exhaust side is fine. IF the turbo does not sound as strong, loud and high pitched as it used to then you can assume that there is something wrong with the exhaust flow spinning the turbo. You can drop your exhaust, make sure you still have your exhaust wheel in tact. Damaged head gasket, you should be able to create some boost and see air in your water... I very much doubt that you will be losing ALL your boost through a blown gasket and all you are seeing is slightly milky coolant...

They may have made a third hole to fit a pipe in there for cold air intake. Pretty stupid idea, they fitted a return flow to avoid cutting holes just to cut another hole. Bahahaha. Get another pipe in there and lead it under your bumper to help push some nice cool air up there.

There was a guy trying to sell a WK13BP on eBay. It was one of those random number plates, black letters on white, 2 letters, two numbers and two letters so WK - 13 - BP.. He wanted 600 for it because he thought it would be good for rotor owners with wankel 13 bridge port motors. My brother offered him $5 for it.

Sometimes you just can't hear the knock. The sound a leaky gasket can give off is VERY different on many cars. I had a leak gasket on my old car, it sounded like someone tearing steel apart. I had another leaky gasket(cat and muffler) it sounded like a blup and only happened at one point in the RPM and I really did think it was knock. It is hard to tell knock apart from other sounds. I was reading a magazine of my brothers and a cheap, and accurate, way to listen for knock apart from electronics is to stick a screw into the coil pack cover thread. Screw it in there nicely then get a length of hose and put it over that screw and put one end in your ear. It acts like a stethoscope. Knocks are head as thuds in the engine. This works almost exactly like a knock detector, it listens for the sound then gives an electrical output, rather than a physically audible output. When my car was being tuned by the two tuners who done it, there was a difference in how they done it. Both used the power fc, both used knock ears but one said you can never trust electronics and when he was doing each run to test the settings he done, he would place his head under the bonnet, blocked ears and listen for the engine thumping around and believe me he heard knock the power fc and knock detector didn't show.