SargeRX8

Is the datasheet for the 040 correct? It say it can flow 300LPH at 94psi and in the same paragraph says its the direct comparable unit to the Wallbro 255.

I'm going to give them a good bedding in. I really don't know why they are this loud but some people are saying I'm not getting enough heat into them and they maybe right. Its pretty embarrassing trying to bed squealing brakes on suburban roads... I'm going to do 6 100km/h to 10km/h medium to hard then 3 hard to 5km from 100km. If no luck, ill get some shims or set the thing on fire.

Sounds like this might turn into a night out and a cruise than just bedding in the brakes haha. Mamre road was a consideration but Ive been on that road and there are cops there very often. How big are the gaps between your start stops? As soon as you hit speed do you hit the brake again and do them all in a row? This guide for the QFM pads says you need to leave a 1km gap between each stop but that would let the brakes cool too much I think...

You drive a Skyline, they have EVERY reason to look in your boot. A uncommon but common thing they look for in the R33 is the battery in the boot. Even though it came like that, they can defect you because it can't vent. If you have a sound system, they can ask to check its not blocking your spare tire. They can even just want to check your spare tire. I don't think surge tanks are legal anywhere. You've made some pretty big mods to the fueling system which if there is a fault could leak fuel and the result could be catastrophic. Your fuel pump is probably getting too hot and running inefficiently. Get a 040 in tank or if you track often, surge tank might be a good option.

I wouldn't even drive the car. Get a siphon and pump that stuff out. 91? Lucky she didn't put E10... 3 successive blinks of the engine check light is a sign of detonation and it must be going hard out. Its not only about driving slow now, its also about not putting much load on the motor. If you tried to climb a hill with that fuel you will find it detonates.

I live at Parramatta so all them country bush roads are out of the way from me. Ive got the QFM HPX pads, LOUD AS f**k they are. The pads look like they are sitting in the caliper fine. I fitted my old skyline with pads before and never had any noise. Done a few other cars. Its just this car won't shutup. The rotors are practically brand new on the rear. I want to see if I can get rid of the noise without using any compounds or noise dampening shims. I feel they aren't heating up right to lay their material hence the sound and sometimes poor stopping abilities. What about The Northern road heading towards campbelltown area? These places are all about 25 mins from my place and Ive already been driving on the brakes as they are so I don't know if this is going to have a negative effect on the bedding process.

Buy them, sell them, profit then buy wheels that fit properly.

Last time I tried to bed my brakes in, I done it late at night when no one was on the road. Got to my 4th stop and my brakes got noisy but I persisted. Until two cars came out of no where behind me highbeaming the shit out of me for starting and stopping the car continously. I did have my hazard lights on and gave them enough room to go around but they stayed behind me being wankers. I was thinking of doing it on the M4 towards penrith late at night as I need about 15km of road(for these pads they suggest 60 - 0 x 10 @ 1km with medium braking then 60 - 0 x 10 @ .5km intervals with hard braking). I have been reading everywhere else that you should NEVER come to a complete stop when bedding in the brakes. The first time I tried to bed them in, they were quiet for the first two stops, then got noisy then became so f**king loud I was embarrassed to continue. Should I push through regardless of how noisy they get? Is there an easy way to clean up the rotors to prep them for a fresh layer of material? I can get them machined but they are almost brand new and the guy I got them from did use different pads. They are slotted rotors and I really don't want to lose the slots. If a cop sees me doing this, could I get in trouble? I won't be speeding and I will have my hazards on. I need to get it done and I don't have private road or anywhere else to do it. Cheers.

Hot weather, does mean hot fuel which does mean the pump will get hot and being an electrical component, it will run inefficiently when it is hotter than usual hence the louder noise. Hot fuel also can cause the popping sound.

You say you are popping around on idle, and its gurgling/surging.... These symptoms are what my car was doing before the fuel pump failed. You can't give a car stick on a failing fuel pump as it could run a lean condition and detonate. Then again, the detonation sound by the way you explained it still doesn't sound like detonation to me. Lean popping is nothing really, unless you are running low 13's to 12's afr you will lean pop on idle. All the other symptoms CAN be normal, between gears you can get a gurgle/pop as revs drop to idle. Light, microscopic amounts of throttle can cause the gurgling. I don't know, I just don't think you will hear the engine ping with a screamer and that is exactly what the sound is like, PING. I was giving my car good stick on high boost after about 2 weeks of nothing. As soon as boost came on I heard a massive f**k off pop from my exhaust with a f**kLOAD of smoke, Power FC read 100 knock but the thing is my coil packs failed in that EXACT moment. Its an iffy situation. I'm not going to tell you its not knock and go WOT until something goes wrong but what I would do is change the plugs and give it a couple of runs and see how she goes. If symptoms persist, see a doctor. You can use a cheap method to hear detonation. Get some 4 - 6mm ID rubber tubing, vacuum hose, and get like a small screw, bolt or something you can screw somewhere into the block or in the head of the motor. Stick the other end in your ear hole and put a tissue in your other ear so you can only hear the noise in the tube. This acts like a doctors stethoscope, you will hear knock not as a PING but more a piston slapping a bore which will sound like a thud in your ear. The ping frequency is very high from the outside but the actual sound is around 4900Hz I think. When Jez was tuning my car, he could hear knock every single time the power FC heard it by placing is head over the engine area and to me looked like he was blocking his ears to isolate the noisy sounds but let the lower frequency noises such as knock be audible. He would then hand signal the dyno man to back off the throttle if he heard knock even though he didn't haha.

The lines are with the EBC fully setup for the tune to run that boost. The lowest setting is the boost controller switched off, you can see how horrible some actuators can be. The thing could not even hold any boost, it was just a test to see what the actuator can do. With steady control, you can almost perfectly control boost with a good EBC. My turbo is the SS2 turbo. The other graph, which runs more boost, is with a stiffer actuator. With my boost controller at 100% for the dyno dynamics run, that was as much boost we could get out of the thing. Needed a tighter spring.

Doesn't matter when boost is OVER 9000

When I put my clutch it and just TOUCH my throttle and hold it, I can hear a click, in a gear, stationary. When I lift my foot off the throttle, it clicks again. RPM doesn't matter, even at 800rpm I can hear a click, when its in gear and clutched in the click when release the throttle. Is this the VCT thing? Just wondering because I have NFI what it is. Doesn't do it in neutral. Power FC.

Look at my lines... My boost controller is a Greddy profec B spec 2. It runs 0% gain, which is the setting used to control boost falloff at higher rpm. If I knew what I was doing, I am fairly sure I can get an almost dead straight boost line on both settings.

Did you try the shims? I got a set on my front but the noise is now from the back(it was from all 4 before...). This is f**ked. My old car had the same setup of rotors, slotted front standard rear, with endless pads and it NEVER EVER SQUEALED!

nfi some red silicone looking shit. Also on one set of the pads there is a soft dampening pad between the metal shims which also has this red stuff on it. Note the car makes the same noise with or without this stuff. Also when turning the rear wheel when it is off the ground, I can hear no noise at one point then at one point there is the sound of friction. This tells me that something is not sitting straight. If it was the pads, it would be noise all the way around....

Find out how much they are at repco and let me know. I cbf calling them because they are shit and cbf driving there because its out of the way from everywhere. Supercheap are horrible, they stock jack f**k all and everything I have EVER needed for my car(bar oil) is "special order".

When I made my intake pipe, it was near impossible to run the standard BOV return so I chopped off the end and rather than throwing it out, I used it as the bung to weld on. If you are anal about it and want the edges rolled like that, buy another one that someone is selling (they are cheap) and cut as long or short as you need to line up with your bov return. I also ran a catch can so the hard return line for the oil side wasn't necessary.

I get the standard plugs for $3.50 a piece but the chap I get my shit from doesn't stock the V groove plugs. Stick to 7. All my skylines have ran 7's with no issues. None of my skylines are stock. People HAVE had issues using 6 plugs. You don't use 6, you use 7.7 isn't good, its the best.

Its not so much the breather line as that is just under vacuum, no air gets pushed through it, shit is sucked through it, its more the BOV return which if when it releases the boost in the system, it hits the AFM, it goes into a fueling mode, adds fuel and stalls.

Lean popping wasn't an issue, I don't think. There was nothing there causing the lean pop and after fitting the AFR gauge it was showing that it was running around 13's which alot of have said will cause lean pop. I got rid of it by richening up the idle mix. Some people run 17.1 afr on idle and they put up with lean pop, I tried it and f**king lol no way in hell. It sounds like shit and the car feels like a rough v8 on idle. New intake pipe should be good. No more rubber or tight corner, a nice 90 degree 3" all the way through. It seems to have fixed my coming off boost stalling issue! I had issues with them, I got a refund and got brand new OEM coils.

Another SS2 owner. Keen to see how your unit performs! I SHOULD TECHNICALLY have everything up to scratch to now be making 280rwkw+. Just need the tune part.

BCPR7ES, they are gapped at .8 The 11 variation is a 1.1mm gap. The BKR7ES V groove is a better option if you can find it. Same plug just the ground at the end of the plug is V grooved.

The line between the FPR and the manifold is fine to use but the reason you DO NOT use it is because if that line pops off, or somehow you develop a leak to your boost sensor or something goes wrong with the boost sensor, you will loose pressure on your fuel rail and the engine will run lean and detonate. There are many places. The best place is between the actuator and the hot pipe. From the manifold, you have the delay of pressure from the turbo to the throttle to the manifold. Between the actuator and the hotpipe is best because this is the pressure closest to the turbo so your boost controller can read the boost and control it as necessary. It might practically do jack shit but in my mind it feels like the closest point so to help prevent boost spike, get the source close and respond quick.

As some of you may be aware, my cars rear brakes have been squealing like crazy. It had the standard rotors running standard pads. So I removed the pads and got the rotors machined and fitted the QFM HPX pads. Problem still there after bedding in. I put some of that brake noise shit on the shims, the noise is still there. I removed those brake pads and put some other bendix pads on. The noise is still there but much quieter, but still there. I bought new rotors with new pads and put that noise reduction shit on it, ITS STILL f**kING THERE and YES it is the rear pads and mainly the rear passenger side. The new rotors are the DBA 4000 slotted rotors. What the f**k else could it be? The noise mostly occurs when at slower speeds but when I heat them up it can occur at any lower end speed with firm braking. Everything has been changed using new parts, fresh parts, trying different combos. Could the hub not be spinning perfectly flat? Could the caliper be failing? I don't have to use any excess pressure to brake, as soon as I find that point it makes noise, I can hold that noise until the car completely stops. Its embarrassing. The front seems to have shutted up. I had slotted rotors which are no longer slotted thanks to machining. 3 different brake pads, 2 different rotors and the noise is still here. I'm considering either buying a full set of Ksport or D2 or some other generic brand and fitting those all round, or setting the car on fire. Seriously this noise is killing my ears.