SargeRX8

Maybe the warmer weather has something to do with it? The fact that you are getting rising temps when sitting at lights is not an indication that the problem is the bent fins as no air will be passing through the radiator at that time. Your clutch fan is spinning and pushing air through the radiator(or sucking, I don't know) but the fact that you drive and it cools down to 75 is an indication that air is coming through. From 90c to 75c when you start moving.... its not luck, its functioning.

Clutch master is not $50 if you go brand new. Its more around the $120 mark. You can do it at home, you need two people. You can repair them if you know what you are doing by opening it up and checking the spring and seals.

They work both ways.

Judging by the post he made last, it looks like a transplant more than a conversion. Still shit. You've got an NA registered R33 with a turbo motor. Technically, its a huge defect. You will also need to change the brakes all round as the non turbo uses smaller brakes, another $500 to source brakes.

I'll be doing that, the flamin mongrel is in the way when I'm changing plugs and all the tape I used to hold it together isn't going to last lol.

Normal. You want induction noise you got a intercooler and pod. The aluminium piping brings out the noise. A leak is a very different sound. It doesn't sound like induction, more like something is actually wrong.

Momentary det is almost harmless. Its the shit which rolls all the way to red line which causes damage, and its pre ignition which blows your motor.

^ Hypergear always keeping it cool and willing to help you out. You can't blame hypergear, you can't blame Nissan. You can't blame anyone. Your luck seems low. That option up there sounds pretty good. It really isn't hard to bolt the head back on and reassemble everything. Torque settings, set the cams, set the pistons, slap on the head, torque it up, manifolds, gaskets, studs, nuts, wiring, injectors, plenum, spark plugs, coils, turbo and your just about there! Then again alot of guys here are blaming you for running 25psi. 25 psi will cause detonation but it isn't likely that one or two runs on this will KILL the motor. Like I said in many other posts, if that cylinder bore is in good shape, replace that damn piston with a stockie and put it back together.

Then you have to get it engineered and registered as a turbo. Sell it as others atte suggesting. There is a good market for non turbo skylines.

On my old skyline, it had Nitto tape. Never came off. Current one has.... Nitto tape too. Best shit. I very VERY much doubt it will even get past 150c up there. Even at the hottest, the engine is still touchable up top. Or just buy new coil packs.

Post how you fixed it and what the problem was. Others may need this info.

Ill come pickup a set from you tomorrow for $400? Not questioning if they're stolen or not but there really has been an outburst lol. Great price though, cheaper than aftermarket and better performers.

Where are you located and is pickup available? The sudden burst of people selling quantities of these is questionable...

What does a good can look like internally? All I've seen is cans with that steel wool like shit inside them...

I got the ss2. Bolted up just fine.

Did you check if the injectors are getting a pulse? That will tell you if there is a signal being sent to the injectors to open up. Injectors are always shut until something tells them to open up and for how long.

the design of the nipple is poop. It should have a ribbed end so it faint slide off so easily. even with a cable tie you can still side it off.

Intake leak will cause the car to run rich as hell, you have measured air coming in and being given fuel for but lost before it gets to the engine. I forgot one tiny vacuum hose, it was enough to make my car idle with black smoke coming from the back. Check every single silicone connector, hose, seal, everything which helps the air stay in the intake.

You get the startup problem, now you have a cold state issue. Correct your water temp sensor. There are two. A single wire and a two wire one. Replace the two wire one.

Ive got the Nismo 740cc's. Alot of boost sees these things peak 54% on 98.

THIS IS EXACTLY THE EFFECT I GET. When riding the clutch to take off, I can hear the boot lid shudder like shit and I am fairly sure my clamp load is close to 4000lb. Its a 5 puk carbotic button clutch. I am either going to start slowly doing an overhaul on bushes, or just leave it as is. Its gotten alot better with the jud juding since I fitted the solid locking bushes on the rear of the subframe but its still evident.

Dammit, I get 83c waiting in traffic in these 35 degree days and I'm not liking it...

In traffic, at the lights, yes you will. They spin and push more air than the clutch fan at idle. Some cars will rise in temp at the lights. If you had the fan spinning faster it will cool the car, at idle, in traffic. My op was about this situation, not driving. get an electric water pump, you will gain power by freeing up the engine from spinning one more pully.

I just pour fresh concrete over it, I have to crawl into my garage now...

If you want better cooling in traffic days, get a shroud and a electric thermo fan.