SargeRX8

You need to get rid of the standard boost solenoid. Unplug it or what ever. Your objective is to fit your boost controller inbetween your hot pipe and your actuator. I wouldn't use that. Its going to be using a boost source inside the TB. The best place to get your boost source is right infront of the turbo outlet on the hot pipe. You have boost reading almost directly from the turbo which will give your boost controller the quickest reading so it can respond and work quickly.

Exactly how does the power you put out at the wheels affect your spark capability? Your spark is affected by boost, thats it. Splitfires are designed OFF OEM coils and are designed to be cheaper. There is a reason Nissan charge a big penny for them. I run a 1.1gap with my brand new OEM's and they RARELY miss. This could not be done with brand new yellow jackets which actually do have similar performance to Splitfire but don't last as long. Just for the sake of giving an example, I can run 30psi through my motor, pull every bit of timing out to create hardly any power, the spark will still blow out thanks to the boost. Heat kills them.

I know you fixed it but wouldn't heat be the wrong approach? I would have thought using that Locfreeze stuff would be a better choice. When you heat metal, it expands. When you cool metal, it shrinks. This stuff acts like a lubricant to help loosen stuck stiff shit and also helps with inhibiting the new stud getting stuck the next time around. Did the guy removed them for you apply anything to the new studs?

I got brand new OEM's for half the price of Splitfires

I use an air compressor to blow crud out before changing my plugs.

I leave it off, I had a vented bonnet, water got in there but never an issue. It looks better on but with all electronics, they will fail under heat and work inefficiently. Leave it off or get a nice vented one

You know what you can do? Keep your factory box mounted in the stock location and use a 90 degree bend going through the old intercooler pipe and have the filter fitted under the car in the wheel arch. Measure it up, cut up as need and bam from the top looks stock, but your pod is in your wheel arch. Gravity won't allow water to get sucked up into the turbo either but that isn't to say your pod won't get wet but again you can shield it from splash from your wheel.

If I have a stockish car and the standard ecu, plug it in see what she does.

I think high flow

Putting the rear ones back in, they just need to be pushed in slightly? Or pressed in? I reckon I can get them out the way I get all my shit out. Fat bolt through it then my old man and me give it a good rip and it comes flying out.

I believe the boxes do jack shit. If you measure the temperature of your intake charge I am fairly sure it will be fairly warm to hot, as compressed air normally is. I really doubt shielding that bit of heat from the engine is going to make more than a bees dick of difference. But hey, it looks cool.

My old skyline had a high flowed turbo with 2835 internals. It was mega responsive and made really nice power. This is certainly not as responsive but damn its soooooo enjoyable you live with it. When it comes on hard and you get some nice smooth quick shifts, the power does not stop. That video shows you I think 3rd gear to 6krpm. Had I dropped it in second it would take a second or two to be in full song, but that video was demonstrating the car building boost from low gear, and its pretty good. You can feel first gear runs out of oomph up top, but thats only natural, its not running out, your tires are just spinning so you lose that push in your chair feeling, so what I do is generally shift earlier, around 5500rpm rather than 7krpm. This also helps prevent wheel spin when entering 2nd. Definitely alot better with the new actuator and tune. I was actually very happy with the tune on the soft actuator and didn't intend to go any higher but my tuner said you may as well because the potential for power is definitely there so I did. With better boost control I think the power line will hold all the way to red line, you can see it tips over abit up top where boost starts to fall. Then you can see the low boost line it holds and keeps going up beyond red line because boost is steady.

Ive been contemplating fire.

insert copper pipe into your oil line and bend it as you need. The bends I have are impossible without kinks, my dad rigged this up for me its fair awesome.

I used perspex, it never went soggy. Good stuff and easy to work with. If you really want a tight seal from the engine bay you need to use some neutral silicone or something else to seal around the edges of the box facing the engine. Ill be making one once I know for sure that my intake pipe isn't going to be modified. I'll be using some aluminium checker plate which I will line the inside with something to deter heat. A full perspex box isn't a good idea. If anything, build it like a computer case, have a mostly metal frame with a piece of perspex in the top panel for looks.

My car hits 19psi in 4th gear at about 3600 - 3800.

I just got 4 new tires. 255 40 17 595SS's on the back and Maxxis MA-V1 on the front in 235 45 17. All up was 520 for 4 corners fitted and balanced. Can't rate them yet but they feel nice and smooth, not much noise. I gave them a pretty sharp turn and they stuck nicely. I gave the car a squirt and they did break traction which was odd, considering my old ones would slightly but were also smaller than these and a shit brand... Shall be interesting.

Couple pages back I posted both of my dyno charts. From the previous tune and the current tune on the mainline. I think Tao stocks 14psi actuators which is what you can request from him. I too am like you, no need to run 18psi everytime I feel like boosting when 14psi feels nice and solid. My boost controller has 3 settings which affect the way boost comes on and holds. You have the SET setting which is the amount of boost you want to run, it is a percentage on the spring load of the actuator. Its a trial and error thing and different for every car. Then you have GAIN which is used to control boost fall off. When boost falls off at higher RPM, you can try to bring it back up using this. Too much and you will spike past your target boost setting. Its f**king hard shit to setup. I thought I had mine perfect on my old skyline until I came across a hill and it spiked by 2psi. Its really fiddly shit. Then you have START BOOST, this is where my EBC will kick in to start controlling boost. Have a read over the manual: http://www.jdmlegion.com/Assets/PROFEC_B_SPEC2.pdf Page 17 about GAIN. Pretty sure a bunch of the better boost controllers have this feature too, to control boost fall off. If you look at my dyno in the past two pages, you can see at 19psi the boost is a very very nice flat line, then it falls off. My gain is set to 0%, upping the gain by say 5% will tell my EBC that when it sniffs boost falling below my SET, increase it by 5%. Maybe 5% is too much and will spike triggering the boost cut, maybe its not enough. Its just an example.

Do you guys think its a shit idea to use a length of rubber hose with an ID of 6mm over a bolt you place in the head or block or where ever, then stick the hose in your ear to listen to knock? Apparently this is a cheap and effective method as it cancels out higher frequency noises, kind of like a doctors stethoscope.

The current actuator on my turbo, without an EBC gives about 14psi MAX BOOST. This was perfect. I can switch my boost controller off and run no more than 14psi. With my boost controller, I can use it to control a straight line of 15psi on low boost and a straight line of 19 - 20psi. We didn't spend anytime fiddling with the advanced features of my EBC, just set the target boost and away we went. With my boost controller, and alot of other good ones, you can set gain boost. So for example lets say you have a 14psi actuator and want to run 16psi. You hit 16psi but the boost starts to taper back down to 14psi. The boost controller will detect this and when you set the gain, you are telling your EBC that in the event of boost falloff, bleed out some air and let the boost ramp up a little more to the target value. When I first got my turbo from Tao, the lowest boost I could hold was 19.8psi. The actuator was too hard, so I sent it back for a softie which was too soft and now got one which is perfect. If you can get your hands on a Garret or HKS 12 - 14psi boost controller, you will be cheering. It should fit these turbos and they would be much more stable at holding boost if you can set the pre load right. This is exactly what Jez told me, running high boost and high power its all about keeping the temps down and controlling detonation. He tuned my car nicely but since I changed my intake its pinged a little. I used FC edit to pull timing out of the whole upper area of the map. I really can't feel any power loss, and its not knocking. Sacrifice some timing for engine health? Yes please.

Set the car on fire. That is what Ill do if I can't fix my brakes. Its the easiest and quickest solution, and with a blend of E10 in the fuel it will burn faster!

The ART43G3 is a bigger turbo that the turbo's in the SS range. It is not the turbo you want if you are after response. The SS series pushes roughly the same amount of boost to make similar power, earlier. Check page 73, Tao made 285rwkw with the SS2 turbo on 18.8psi.

The 040 seems really good in my car. My AFR's stick to what they should and I run close to 20psi high boost. With my Nismo 740cc injectors, I hit about 55% injector duty cycle. I don't even have the 14v direct feed mod or the ground mod. I dropped it in and I run it.

When I was modding my car, I had 280 in my head as a target. Until I see a dyno give me 280 or more, I'm not stopping. You can't shoot blind. Have a target, aim and shoot. You have ALOT of unnecessary parts there which are just a waste of time and money. Head gasket? Seriously you're going to pull the motor apart, resurface the head and block, get new studs and put it all back together? A good bolt on kit will do nicely. You can tell your mate to get a gt3540, that will get him over 400rwhp but how long it takes to hit that power is a different matter. Find your self a nice HKS kit(rare as f**k), or just get a good high flow for about 350rwhp and be done with it.

The 044 can be run in tank if you put the sock over the end.