SargeRX8

There are 3 things I think it could be, one being unlikely. 1) The ignitor module has failed. This unit is what produces the voltage then sends it to the coil to the spark. It could be f**ked for a particular channel only. 2) The loom is damaged. The wires could have broken inside the clip or somewhere in the line to the coils. 3) The ECU is damaged and can't send the signal to the ignitor to create a spark for X cylinder. All your symptoms are of a cylinder not firing. WRX on idle is a clear indication one of your cylinders is literally switched off. Fuel going in, no spark, no power, rough, etc. The reason the engine shakes is because the crank is balanced to run with 6 cylinders spinning it smoothly. You now have your car running on 5(or less) cylinders, causing the crank to spin unbalanced. Get another ignitor from someone to test, from a known working car. If nothing, try another loom, or if you are ok with electronics check for continuity. If those bring no luck, try another ECU.

Shit saw the gauge holder is 60mm all my stuff is 52mm.

Its a pain in the arse writing off the Galaxy S2, the swype keyboard doesn't always get it right haha. But that is what I meant. Not flow, but pressure. Due to upgrading his fuel pump, the pressure will be above stock but still within a safe limit to ensure the car runs fine.

I have this exhaust. Very touch when in the higher rev range and definitely complements the RB.

Songs too rich, fuel burning in the exhaust, black soon, rough idle due over fueling. get a stock fpr back on it. It will run a tad higher than stock sure to the increased flow from the pump but it will be fine. Are you fouling plugs?

Ive near new slotted DBA rotors at the back. They came with a set of Bendix brake pads but they made too much dust so I threw these HPX pads in there. It almost seems like its only one rotor which is making noise, the rear passenger side... Like Ive said in another thread about this, I tried different brakes, with different rotors and it ALWAYS seems to be making noise when coming to a stop. Its not the first skyline Ive driven near or been in either which makes terrible braking noise. Heaps of people can bare it, I am not one of them.

I think he isn't arguing the fact that the auto box is faster, but more the thrill and the more hands on work of driving a manual car over an auto. I get sick of manual when driving through traffic, but I get bored shitless when I am driving an auto through fun roads. When you are shifting gears, holding your wheel and controlling your feet, you feel like you are in full control rather than just planting your foot and looking straight.

I haven't done any extreme hard braking yet. They don't need heat in them to be noisy. I start the car, I drive, I go to stop and bam noise. It only gets worse as they get warmer. The first time I tried to bed them in I went from 70 - 5 3 times and they were so f**king loud I was embarrassed to continue. I thought maybe I was doing something wrong like not enough pedal, as some people say you need alot of heat, and I was doing what you suggested, good braking(nothing to slam your head into your steering wheel) then cool down for about 500m then another stop. I cbf with these pads anymore. I tried to bed them in again and I actually thought it worked they weren't making any noise after about 3 slow downs, but now its back to square one, maybe even square zero.

Get a gap tool or a set of feeler gauges. A "gap" is not really a fault, its the process of measuring up the gap between the electrode and the ground point of the spark plug, The top of the plug has that white thing with the exposed metal which sparks between the body of the spark plug. You measure that gap. 1.1mm is the common standard size. What you do is gently tap the spark plug onto something solid, concrete or something, until the gap closes to about .8mm. This will NOT fix your problem if you are misfiring on idle. If you misfire under boost only then yes it will. On idle, the WRX sound, means one cylinder isn't running and a coil is dead.

I'm hardly the redneck and quite the ethnic lol. Those are my fishing pants and they are awesome.

Its unfortunate I no longer have photoshop, MS Paint is hopeless.

Fat as in they can in no way be compared to skylines in terms of their suspension work. My cousin has a VL which ran 12's or 11's and it had almost no suspension work. Fat as in when you smack the brake it rocks like a boat and handles like a boat. Skylines might be big and heavy but they really do not handle like boats. They are 1250Kg, 100kg lighter than my GTST.

This thread has come a long way from the first page, maybe he didn't read the OP where it was talking about street tires and full weight. None the less it is a true statement. Ive seen some videos of VL's and rotors make some pretty quick passes with street tyres. The VL is a fat sloppy car while the rotors are generally fitted into a chassis which weights easily under a ton.

If it doesn't fit perfectly, it will somewhat fit. Then just take it to any exhaust shop or anyone with a welder and have them move the appropriate hangers. If it doesn't fit, you can make it fit.

What ECU's are you running your Eflex with?

On a RWD with the ATTESSA its not that expensive if you do it your self. Depending on how shaggered they are, you can get new joints for about $50 a side, then you need the grease and the new boots. Get a CV shop to check them out see if they are still rebuildable and if they sell the parts you need.

To sum up, a 10 Rb25 is not all about having the power. Its the potential to get it down on the ground, from the get go. You need the launch, you need the traction, you need the quick smooth gear changes etc. You really cannot compare an R35 to any other manual skyline. Unless you're chuck norris, you can't out shift a DSG. Hell even chuck norris cant do it.

Your coils or spark plugs are more than likely dead

Rofl at the VL's. That car JETBLK is always in my area, Ive never seen a car take to long to create power.

This probably has nothing to do with your plugs. I, and about a thousand other skyliners, have this issue. First cold start, the car will often die down or struggle then kick back up after a tap of the throttle. Ive got almost a new everything that you can get bolted onto the motor and its still there. Another guy replaced even more parts with brand new genuine parts and the issue is still there. NFI what causes it or how to fix it.

There is a guy here selling genuine OEM ones suitable for the R32 and R33 GTR, would they be compatible with his RB20? You should consider OEM units. People don't because they cost $200 a coil. This guy is selling brand new set of 6 for $350. I bought a set. Awesome stuff.

Why bother with the silicone induction? If you got stock turbo, just sleeve up the original with a metal pipe in the middle. Carbon fiber box will cost you too much. Get one made of a cheaper material, plastic or metal, then have it wrapped in carbon fiber vinyl. Those memory pipes are good but eBay wants too much for them.

Scary stuff. I couldn't trust adjustable can gears...

Don't need to take the bolts out unless its seized. Loosen the front and rear housing then have someone hold them while you rotate the core.