SargeRX8

595 wide lol my car could never drive them. Yeah its the make, Feds 595's 255 wide.

That is what most other people not running the stock box have, including my self

With a crane you can take the engine and box out together. This is the way its generally done if they both need to come out. MUCH easier to work with the stuff on the ground than under the car. Mind you it is a bitch even getting the gtst box out. You need to support the box and not slide it with the box weight hanging on the car or you won't ever get it out.

I'd use the 7 heat range. For an Rb20 you are making some power which means your temps will be on the higher side so a colder plug is better. Ive ran BCPR7ES in both my cars all day every day, Rb25 with 230rwkw and another rb25 with 250rwkw. The misfire could be one of the many reasons others have said. Spark plugs, coil packs, igniter. The tune will not affect the spark plugs. Your spark is being blown out because the spark is too weak. Find the weak point and fix it. Your cheapest and quickest option is new plugs gapped at .8mm. Go for a good run. You said it took half an hour to misfire before. Try get some heat into it quickly and see if it happens faster. What colour are your coil packs? Blue means you probably got splitfires. Red means you probably got JJR or superspark. Yellow means you probably got yellowjackets. Black means you either got OEM or nothing has been changed, or some other cheap copy.

The blitz panels are good too Ive heard and half the price of the K&N, although I did run a K&N and never had issues with it I'd be running a stock box on the car if its stock. Only reason I am not running the stock box now is because there is no way I can make it line up with this turbo and intake pipe.

Really? Ive got a fair bit of power, not 300, but the only times I can brake traction are between shifts(its not just a chirp, it breaks) and all throughout first gear and 2nd if I don't let it regain traction after the shift. It would be pretty awesome if I could be off throttle in 3rd gear then plant it just to have the wheels spin lol. I NEED MORE POWER. What tires and suspension do you use? My suspension isn't hard and has some squat in it to help give traction and my tires are fat 595's.

I don't understand why they cost that much when you can buy a survival kit for much less and the flare is included I really wouldn't pay $100 for it. I'd give like... $30 max. They really aren't that rare. It depends on who imports the car and what their standard is on getting it complied etc. Alot of the privately imported skylines Ive seen have the flare, while the more commercial ones(a few of the dealers for import cars) NEVER have the flare. Its not the flare that shoots into the air either. Its the flare which just glows red at the end in your hand so if you have been driving on the mountains of japan and happen to fall off a cliff face on a snowy day, you can use it to signal searchers.

Fairly sure its just the red stick which sits on the ECU kick panel. When I was in the market for a R33, I found 4 cars which had these, almost convinced me to buy the car lol just to say Ive got a flare!

f**king this. I almost went insane from a squeak near the passenger side of the dash. It was the quarter panel. Now I know what it is I don't care lol.

My brother owns an 8 second car, its pointless on the road and it is street registered.

What? I had KU31's and they are probably still the best tyres Ive used. I ran them down to about 40% and they were still sweet.

Yeah I was thinking about this too, I used the textured stuff on the pillar stuff on the outside of the car and it is a pain to get some dirt out of, especially bird shit... I was looking for some matt vinyls but really have no idea where to source them. My car is white and I wanted to try and go for an urban camo look

One intake mod is a joke. Not being able to mod our cars freely, and within certain limits(I'd say sound levels mainly and heavy toxins from the exhaust) is a joke. You can have a full built motor with massive turbo and run E85 and have emissions cleaner than most other standard petrol cars, but will be defected because you have a magical filter sitting infront of your turbo. The thing with the water 2 air cooler is what happens when the water reaches a temperature higher than ambient? Won't that make it useless? Or is that effect voided out due to the better heat removing capacity of water over air? I think a front mount intercooler is the best way to cool your intake charge. Its at the front, low to the ground, has air directed into it and nothing infront of it. Everything is a defect in Victoria, I think they have the most strictest rules on modding cars.

Is there anyone in Sydney who can do a whole wrap of that CF textured stuff?

All you need now is some blutac and thumb tacs to hold it together.

Could something be made like this to bolt onto my current exhaust? Ive got the HKS HiPower Silent exhaust and the cat back is detachable from the rest of the exhaust..

There is alot of misconception around the rotary engine. Its classed as a 1.3L engine in Japan but apparently that was done because Mazda "could" and they did so to keep insurance and other costs down when other people state that technically when the engine performs all its cycles which it does in 1080 degree motion, 3 full crank revolutions, its a 2.6L which some "could say" works as a 6 stroke motor. I did not come up with this, its on the internet, along side alot of other true and misleading information.

Your arguments are valid but I will still take a skyline

There is too much talk and debate about it. Some say 2 stroke, some say 4 stroke. Some even say 6 stroke(1080 revolution to complete a full engine cycle). Rotated 360degrees it is seen as a 2 stroke. I don't know for sure its not my interest, I just regurgitate what I read.

Its a 2 stroke motor so it is often considered as 2.6L motor and in competitions its not raced against 1.3L motors but against larger class motors like the jz and rb. but the fact is if you filled up each rotor chamber with fluid, it will take 1.3L of fluid, 650cc per rotor.

Shit ton of servicing? Are you putting sand in your oil or something because any issues Ive had with my skyline is simply nit picking at the car just to bring it to perfection, nothing hindering reliability. Isn't every car like that if you want to keep it in its peak performance? A skyline is just like every other car, wheels, motor, gearbox. You can treat it like shit, or you can baby it. The choice is yours. You gonna buy a 90k maloo and not do frequent servicing? Its a 20 years younger car than the average skyline, something tells me that might just have some teeny tiny effect on the servicing methods eh. How long will a holden last you? No replacement for displacement is a stupid statement. I can blow it out of proportion and say that a Porsche developed a 5.5L V10 motor which will oblitirate bigger motors. Its not about displacement. Displacement gives you power at the wheels, a well designed and built motor and car will move you faster. Little rotary engine, just a 1.3L can produce over 800rwhp. I would take a Stock as a rock R32, R33 or R34 GTR(you can choose), over a modded to the top Maloo any day of the year. You can drive a commodore, or you can drive a skyline. Another dumb thing people say about skylines is how much servicing they need to keep them reliable. So many times I get shit from other Falcondore drivers telling me my car will probably break down every set of lights... lol.

Did you guys do that with brand new pads or have you driven the car with them on? So far Ive done about 200km of normal driving so I might have to sand them before I bed them in. My rotors aren't glazed so ill try to ensure they stay like that until I bed them.

Why are you taking my words out of context? They are a replica of the OEM's. They are cheaper than the OEM's, they are a cheap replica. The last statement was a theory I read. The larger gap will help to burn more of the air and fuel in that stroke. Not something I am for or against, but something I read, and if it does, I want in on it.

I actually read on here that the splitfires are replicas of the genuine OEM. I don't come up with fairy statements or figures. I read what I see and write what I read. I am not saying splitfires are shit, or not up to the job or up to par with OEM, I was saying that right now there are a few sets of OEM coils in the for sale section which are half the price of splitfires and if you can get your self a set or in the market, you would be silly to consider anything else. $350 I payed for 6 brand new OEM coils for my series 2. I posted my opinion about my experience. These OEM's are performing better than my old splitfires. What's wrong with that? I have also read in MANY places on this forum that if you can retain the original gap, you will have a greater cylinder combustion as the spark is larger and than .3mm difference makes a difference. I can't say I notice it but its the same way people say you need an box around a pod. Means jack shit. I ran a CAI system feeding cold air from under the car, made sweet f**k all difference when the box was removed. That is my opinion and my finding and there is NOTHING stopping me from say that. Your HKS 2835 is a 420ps turbo. Mine is 430ps at lower boost. Mine flows more air.

I can run .8gap and never miss. Hell I can even run 1.0 and not have a miss but I was in a rush to get these plugs in and didn't have the time to sit there and tap them shut. They perform so well that I will not be regapping them, just replacing them at the end of their 10000km cycle. My turbo on 20psi will flow more air than your turbo on 21psi. I don't say what I have is best, I vouch for what I have either tried, experienced or tested. I don't take stabs in the dark. I can say that my yellow jackets performed fine, but didn't last long at all. I can say that these OEM ones are better than my old splitfires because I was running 17psi on my old car with a 2835 and would get a miss with anything above 1.0gap. I will say these OEMs are doing a near perfect job and running almost triple stock boost, I don't miss that often. Not enough for it to be a problem, not enough to dedicate 15 mins to pulling them out gapping them and putting them back in. I think for the price I payed for my OEM coils and the fact others can get them for the same price, you would be half minded to go with any other choice. How long do splitfires last? Ive heard of them failing after a couple of years, sometimes earlier. Read about it on different cars etc. These Nissan units have lasted 20+ years and hell even my old OEM coils ran a .9 gap just fine. Weigh up the prices you can get OEM's vs splitfires. Weigh up the age in which each coil pack is known to fail. OEM units aren't "as good" they are simply better. Splitfires were just a cheap replica. There are more threads suggesting OEM is better than aftermarket, none on my watch showing the other way around.