SargeRX8

Tao would suggest the main killers with these turbos are a poor intake and poor exhaust. The poor intake(small intake pipe, shit intercooler etc) will cause flow restrictions and the intake temps will be hotter, resulting in potential detonation. A restrictive exhaust will cause the turbo body and manifold to get very hot as it can't push fumes out, this increasing the EGT's and this plays a big role in detonation. If you have a turbo capable of 400hp and you are making 400hp at your engine on 98 fuel, you are at the limit of the turbo. Any higher will just create heat. Running the car on race fuel or E85 will raise the bar. If you have a turbo capable of 1000hp and an Rb25 which isn't going to blow due to the massive combustion pressure(these motors have high comp ratio), and you can somehow factor out heat and flow out of the equation then I believe it will make your 1000hp.

Silly move. I done my 100k service 10kkm before it. Pay for tune, major service, then pay for tune again...

After a comp test, what is a good level of compression to be running high boost on these motors? My motor tested at 155 - 160 on all cylinders, I run 17psi through it and 20 as high boost.

You should label this guy to warn others. This isn't an accident. If he bought them new, ask him to show you receipts, how much he paid and what for. I payed $650 for my 740cc's. Full boost (20psi) they only do about 50%.

Do you tune either of those ECU's? P01 to P04 down wards and N01 to N04 across. 1.000 1.000 1.109 1.055 0.969 0.953 1.008 1.039 1.055 1.008 1.074 0.992 1.027 1.039 1.070 1.004

I shall post them as correction tonight. Note though my afm settings have been scaled. I might be getting a new ecu if I can get a good deal. Either a g4 or haltech. Map sensor and fuel sensor = no air setup issues and variable fuels!

Put your afm between the throttle body and the bov then get your tune.

As soon as I clutch in, my wideband drops to 10.0 with the bov blocked and fuel cut at 2k

I thought of it but there is absolutely no other symptoms to point to a gasket leak. If it was, which would you suspect? My only symptoms are the idle when clutch in. idle after that is perfect, no hunting etc.

In before The Mafia gives you shit about dose or vented. I'd put the stock bov on and block it with a coke. It looks stock but you get flutter! Your issues may be consistent with the bov. Also the f**king sound these hks things make could be hard as knock. I really doubt you're knocking when coming off boost. Afaik, the power fc stores tune data in ROM, so it makes no difference if you lose power or not. Some changes you make using the hand controller are also only temporary... Why not reset your power fc, let it learn idle and see how it goes? You're going for a tune so you should be alright on the standard map off boost. Don't ever boost on the stock map, I guarantee big detonation. The fueling isn't too bad but it's got alot of timing where it shouldn't. If you get a tune with flutter or atmo bov, you can't change your mind later. The tune from the blocked bov may also be different to an atmo suited tune.

I must have Vacuum leak somewhere in my car but have no f**king idea how to find it. I done an intake pressure and fixed the obvious leak I had. My idle when clutching in is still rough, even if I went no where near any boost and with the stock bov. Startup is also rough, but it seems more consistent with temperatures rather than a vac leak. I also noticed if i'm on the brake and the air con is on then I switch it off, I can feel it in the brake pedal, it goes in a tiny bit more... f**k vacuum leaks dammit.

It must be a rebuilt or recondition motor. Something like this sounds like a build fault rather than wear and tear.

I hate it when the pipes blow off. I would be driving on juice, then you hear a PSSH and its like MOTHERf**k. Check the bigger cooler pipes and if you find nothing, check the vacuum lines. If you still find nothing, do a proper intake pressure test and THEN use soapy water. Soapy water on an idle engine is all vacuum lol.

Which cells are they? Mine are practically practically to the sample map...

Yeah it was on the second 10 minute cycle. I switched the car off and started again and it was fine. still get the dip to about 600rpm. It's better than before, I'll live with it.

I'm surprised to see a 100psi jump with the added oil. These engines can't compress to that level.

I just tried to initialise the ecu, the car shit it's pants when I turned the AC on... Any ideas?

Ive got my own datalogit already attached to my ECU so I can do this my self(and I have before when my idle was shit). It was alright for a while then went to the shit after that. Ill try the other suggestions and raise the fuel cut to 2krpm and see how she goes. Then ill give it some timing to see if that helps. If not, ill erase the tune, setup my injectors n shit and let it do the idle crap. When you copy the old tune to the power fc, does this erase the idle settings? 15 14.70 15 15.17 20 13.94 20 14.31 20 14.42 That's my P01 to P05 in N01. Those aren't the actual wideband readings, just what is in the power fc. Tool? Its weird that HKS, Apexi, Greddy, Turbosmart etc all go through the effort of designing these blow off valves. Its weird that you watch almost ANY video of any slightly modified skyline over in Japan only to hear an aftermarket BOV. I really don't care if anyone thinks I'm a tool, in the eyes of 95% of the public, skyline owners are tools anyway. I drive my car the way I like. I make it move the way I like and I make it sound the way I like.

I cleaned the aac as per the diy. Is that cleaning the iac too? Afaik the aac lets the engine breath more air when you use things like air con, the brakes, power steering etc. Isn't that thermostat the csv, cold start valve which is the one under the plenum?

IAC attached to the AAC? Ive cleaned both of those. Last night, raised the FC made no real difference still felt floppy. Will adjust those sells by a few degrees, +5 should be fine in each cell right?

That is the stock BOV, they just whacked a cup over the end to seal it off. Take that off and get that line plumbed infront of your turbo, in your intake pipe. What ECU do you have btw? Do you have an AFM? I would leave the BOV and get rid of the screamer. That one will get you into big shit.

But Ive seen and heard of a fair few skylines running power FC with atmo bov and even with a blocked BOV and some don't have the issue... Gay piece of arse AFM. None the less though I still get the dip in RPM WITH the BOV fitted. Like I said in the OP, I don't even need to be on any boost(all vacuum) and it still does it. Just now I was driving home 50km/h in third. I clutch in to stop at the lights and they dip to 500rpm then jump back up, it just gets worse with the BOV gone.

Machine gun = misfire.

Probably get pulled over and defected for running two turbos because a cop will have NFI what that thing is haha.

My car sometimes, not all the times, hits about 500rpm when clutching in. It doesn't sound like its going to stall but it doesn't sound like it should be doing it. I have a fair bit of bolt on mods with the PFC ECU. Sometimes when coming to a stop(and it makes no difference, off boost, light throttle etc) the revs come to about 500rpm and the car kicks back up and idles fine. Ive cleaned the AAC. Ive removed fuel from the cells it hits in the first column of the pfc but didn't make a difference. Its going into the first column then into the higher load cells. Something is telling the car there is a load on the engine and it kind of f**ks around a little... Also, now don't anyone give me shit for it, if I want to remove my BOV, how do you tune out the symptoms of running no BOV? I know alot of cars who have no BOV with nice deep flutters and there car doesn't stall. My old skyline would switch off instantly even on a free idle rev and flutter. Is it about removing fuel or giving it fuel?