SargeRX8

Then you need a timing light to set it to 15 degrees at warm idle of 650(or 750) rpm.

Hahahah i just read this thread and read what I wrote lol. I think they would all do it, the boost will always push the air through he path of least resistance, ie the back of the chamber. f**k THAT IS AMAZING CONTRACTION LOL. I'm opposed to both now!

Is it worth it for a car pushing about 260rwkw? During the cooler days my average temps are 76 - 83C. On hot days I can see it rise up to about 88 - 89c on the power FC. I don't even need to be giving it a hard time. No idea if this is a concern or not...

f**king shit balls then why doesn't mine work! I'm not opening it again lol.

Get some ports tapped into it. Not hard. Its soft metal so just drill a small hole, go abit bigger then use a tap to make the thread.

Get a, piece of hose and stick one end in your ear and the other around the engine bay to pin point the noise. My car ticks, its my injectors. My old car had an exhaust leak and I'll tell you what, it didn't sound like a tick, more like a screech.

That looks awesome, but if I had your skill what I would have done is run the pipe from the throttle body to the intercooler on the passenger side and run the pipe from the turbo hot end to the driver side intercooler.

Putting a non turbo motor into the car doesn't, in the eyes of the law, change it from being a turbo car. You will need to do the conversion then have the car complied as a rb25 non turbo. Sydking, if you need a hand(seems like alot of people offering their help), ill help out. I ripped out my motor and what not also put a few cars together(non RB's but the concept is the same). Also with the loom, if I recall correctly after stripping my car, you shouldn't have to rewire things, just replace the loom with the appropriate new loom. It controls everything in the engine bay. All other electricals(headlights, ac etc) are independant I believe but you will probably need to fiddle around with the fuse and relax box. The mechanical stuff is much easier than the electrical. Is the 26 a direct drop in for your 25 awd crossmember? Are you doing to be taking your box and engine out as one piece and then putting them back in as one piece? Ill tell you its a pain in the f**kING ARSE to get the gearbox bolted back to the engine but its an another pain in the arse dismantling your car to be able to slide the engine and box out as one piece.

Don't do it. I pulled mine apart to try fix it and it also stopped working. Its a pain.

I had it wrong lol I thought he meant nothing was lining up, the we setup. When he said upside down I assumed the t3 flange was out along with the dump.

Push the switch the other way. If it doesn't open, then its like every other skyline here. The mirror shuts but won't open. Now you have to open it manually. Firmly pull them out. They won't break but don't yank it, just apply pressure until you get it to open up and never close them again. Both my skylines shut but don't open. My current skyline had one mirror which would open and close but now none of those mirrors open OR close lol.

Get a bigger turbo to compensate for the larger plenum. Or if you really want to spend some money, get the GTR plenum mated onto your neo head: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/247435-mating-rb26dett-throttle-plenum-on-rb25det-neo-head/page__st__40

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/363467-rb25-det-intake-manifold/

It could have been rotated by someone.

All that time, effort and money for 0 gains? ZERO GAINS? MADNESS. I'm going to be swapping ECU's soon, from PFC to something with a map sensor. No power gains directly but I do have the option to get E85 up in this bitch.

Rotate your turbo housing. Its facing the wrong way. Just loosen the 4 or 6 screws holding the exhaust housing to the turbo core and rotate it 180 degrees then tighten it up. You might want to make sure you do it right though, ie your oil feed is at the top of the turbo still, and draining out the bottom. You DO NOT want water at the top. It will only fit one way so do it right coz its a bitch in the arse to keep adjusting. I got my old gt3071r the right way around first go

You know why they f**k up? If you open the window and it's been raining, your car roof has water on it. The moment you use your brakes or turn, that water rolls down the side of the car in the open window and without a doubt always gets inside they button. I recon that is why they door so quick. Give the motor direct power, if it goes up its not your problem.

You can auto tune with the software to get fueling right. Or why not just add more fuel your self? The software is free.

Can't you drive it without giving it petrol? Just cruise it there. Or get your wide band and do some auto tuning! I think you can with that ecu. when you let it go cold again does it start and seem fine?

I bought my power FC from a dude not far from me, who is on this forum, who said he has actually the worlds fastest street legal R32 GTR. His engine bay, I took this pic when I picked up the ECU. I got excited.

I made my own, 5mm steel plate 3 holes and one nut welded in the centre. Worked a treat. I changed my belt 20000km after it was already done. I fitted in a new water pump because I had one. I was just saying that if he was just doing a belt and had a new pump in there and fresh coolant, that he could avoid losing the coolant because it us possible to do the belt with the radiator in there

Hmmm wtf lol.

I wasn't going against what you said, I just assumed you were probably implying that any useable oil would have been flooded into the head! Ive read that it doesn't take very long at all on some high rpm to fill the head up with pretty much all useable oil in the sump. Pulling enough G's and maintaining that in a straight line to starve the engine of oil.... that is crazy shit insane! Its amazing to see these oil control issues evident in skylines. They are all very possible situations and you would think Nissan would have thought of ways to prevent this stuff from happening. Also those KM readings, 72000km.......................................................................................................................... nah. Is it a bad thing to overfill your sump? It takes me some good time to fill up my car and get it exactly on the right mark on the dip stick. I over filled it once and I let some oil out because I read it can do bad things but I didn't see how or why...

Rattle gun wouldn't undo mine. Took an almost 2 meter long breaker bar to get it loose. If he wasn't doing the water pump, then it would be pointless to take the radiator out.

So that push from 0 - 180 is enough to starve the engine and flood the head with oil? What the f**k, that is insane.