SargeRX8

My low boost is 0% with 5% gain boost start is at 14psi warning at 17psi drop to 0%. High boost is 40% 5% gain 19psi start warning 21psi drop 0%

The GT35 on an Rb25 motor is capable of about 450hp to 500hp. The G3 sits around there 450hp and with a bigger motor a little more. Its not a direct line but I certainly would not compare it to a 3076.

I would put the SS2 with the 3076. Both turbo's capable of 300rwkw, with the SS2 coming to full boost by about 3500, tad earlier than the 3076. I would have compared the G3 more to the GT35 turbo, it has potential of about 350rwkw and it won't make full power until about 4krpm...

But you got a perfectly balanced piece of metal sitting on a pivot going up and down. I know there isn't much room in the bore for movement, but i'm probably talking about stuff I don't know lol.

He said it almost started when he manually pulsed the injectors. Is not switching. Get a auto elec to test your wiring. If your wiring to your injectors aren't flashing, pulsing, they went be opening and closing.

^ this. To take a notch from one side, you need takean exact one from the other side to balance it out otherwise your piston could vibrate in the engine and one can only imagine what that would be like...

Kando, made in Japan using Mitsubishi components. Hyper gear, made in Australia alot of testing. China turbos, made from cheap, inferior components, not tried, hardly tested and not proven. People aren't giving you or your mate shit about turbo choice, no, it's the whole idea which is horrible and an utter waste. a proper turbos compressor wheel cost as much as that Chinese turbo cost to cut out of raw material. You want to tell me they are reliable? Imagine what the core looks like. I recon if your mate did do this, he will have the Garrett in his hands before this China turbo is running and tuned on his car. And it's not a direct bolt on, you are going to need a new hot pipe or silicone bend.

http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=135514 That spring you are using looks f**king soft man... No idea how to test it. Find out how much voltage it operates with then feed it.

Make sure that plastic shit you put around your pump is fuel safe. If that shit deteriorates in your fuel tank... What I did is slice up some spare fuel house and put that around the pump to act as a vibration suppressor.

Where are you located?

15208-H890C is what you want, in Australia the code for this part is H8911AU. They are compatible with the following cars - Nissan S13 (CA18DE) - Nissan S13 (CA18DET) - Nissan 300ZX (VG30DE) - Nissan 300ZX (VG30DETT) - Nissan Skyline R32 GTS (RB20DE) - Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-T (RB20DET) - Nissan Skyline R33 GTS (RB25DE) - Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-T (RB25DET) - Nissan Skyline R32 GTR (RB26DETT) - Nissan Skyline R33 GTR (RB26DETT) - Nissan Stagea WGNC34 (RB25DET)

Look at it like this. That turbo, plus tuner and dyno work plus any little bits to get the turbo to fit will cost in excess of 800, dare I even say 1k. Tuning is quite theoretical IMO, but that is going by static figures. Each and every car is different...

I got a 040 fitted as low as I possibly could in my tank. Ran it to the warning light and it was still fine. That was because I had to not because I wanted to. I never let fuel drop below quater to half anyway. Looks like you got it setup right. Should be much easier to slide in than the 040 with the modded bracket. f**k I hope I never have to go through that again. Its so hot inside the fuel tank and when it doesn't slide into place, the frustration kicks in.

There are cheap ways to do things, there are wrong ways to do things, and there are expensive ways to do things. This looks like the wrong way, done cheaply, then going to be end up being very expensive. Don't buy anything. Seriously just wait for all your parts to come together. My car was stock standard when I got it. Took me about 7 months to get every part I needed and now I enjoy every bit of it. Tunes are not interchangeable between cars. I had a tune for a stock as a rock R33 GTST(Power FC, wasn't base tune, proper dyno tune). I fit that Power FC on my car, and it was amazingly f**king shit. It didn't ping or anything but the lack of power was amazing. That 280rwkw tune, I think, will be very rich for the flow of the turbo that you listed. You won't see much performance. Maybe the tune was for a larger turbo too and this smaller turbo you listed will spool quicker and pop the motor due to a lean out. Do it properly.

Pretty sure the heads are the same... They use the same CAS, same cam cover etc. The only difference is the coil packs, which are the same size but have an external ignitor.

Their website didn't really say anything about that. Doesn't matter anyway, I really doubt the wasted spark is going to half the life span of my coils. Its not like you run out of spark, its generally heat and age that kills them(I got brand new OEM coils). Does that mean with this ECU, you can run 3 coils to run cylinders?

Ive been reading about the adaptronic ECU. It doesn't say much about knock control, but you do have a headphone socket which you can plug in headphones to listen to knock with. It looks pretty awesome, it can do everything I need it to and because Ive got a HG turbo, I get it cheaper.

Remove old bulbs, fit in new ones, wire in ballast. 10000k look really nice, crisp blue. Ive seen them in real, they look awesome but I wouldn't feel comfortable with that colour in the rain, hence why I run 4700 which is perfect.

This is why I run my wideband in my tail pipe. If the tuner likes, they can compare the ratio with what they are getting at the muffler but surely most would know there is some delay from what just came out of the manifold to what is being shown at the tail pipe...

Ive got the SS2, its meant to be on par, if not a little further ahead that the 3076. I should technically be topping out at about 300rwkw. When I got my initial tune, my intake pipe was a restriction. Its been rectified and I am going in for a retune to see where I stand now. The adaptronic sounds like a good option but I need to find a tuner up here who is going to set it all up for me, and I am quite fond of the work Jez has done so far. I really want to swap my ECU out also to eliminate the issues with stalling between gears. I have nfi what the cause is, I have everything plumbed back and it still does it. If I ran a map setup, I won't have to worry about it Ive heard my injectors will be enough, but Ive also heard they won't be... Ive read good things about those pumps and will highly consider them if I do make this move. Had I known what the options were now, I wouldn't have bought a PFC in the first place but honestly, the PFC is a great ECU, its just out dated these days. As I said above, my SS2 turbo is meant to be on par with those turbo's. Comes on quick and meant to make big power with the same boost. My car had a restriction which I hopefully fixed... Ive also read that about these pumps, but both my skylines had the same pump, and both have seen the warning fuel light come on before I ever had any issues... And I never have. The thing is I should be on about 300 on 98 fuel... Its good to see your injectors were holding out, gives me some hope as I did pay a good penny for these Nismos. My mind is set on the G4 but that is because Ive done most of my research on that ECU alone. I actually never thought of the adaptronic, and if I can get it at a cheaper price, hell that is an awesome option!

You able to try the power fc in another car? You want to at least rule out the ecu before you start going through all that wiring behind the dash...

I was making 255rwkw from the SS2. As said above in my OP, the main target is not the power but after the features of the ethanol fuels(lower det levels, much lower toxins). Its still all up in the air. My intake pipe is no longer a problem and it will be going in for a touch up tune with DVS JEZ. My car has 153psi minimum across all 6. Ive got the fattest flowing exhaust I can buy without being a street pig. I have got EVERYTHING to now get at least 300rwkw from the SS2. If it doesn't happen on the tune up, I will certainly be ditching the whole switch to E85 and any further mods and just stick to the car as is. I too have read too many things about my injectors. Some say 555's are enough for a good 280rwkw on E85, others say you need minimum 1000ID's to get anywhere past 300. I just calculated my fuel consumption. I filled a full tank two days ago. Done 155km of driving. Filled up to the top, took 13.5 litres. That is 8.7L to the 100km. This is driving through traffic too. I know not to expect any fuel economy from E85 if I make the move lol.

Hey guys. As it stands my car is treating me well(touch wood). The motor is still healthy and going strong. At the moment Ive got the Power FC ECU for my Rb25det series 2 motor. I want to switch over to either run E85 or better yet, setup the car for flex fuel(run what ever is available). But I have some general questions. 1) Are Nismo 740cc injectors enough? They run about 55% at 20psi on my SS2 turbo. I have a 040 feeding them. 2) Are there any other hardware changes that need to be made to run E85? Now to ask about ECU's, I have NO idea what to get. So far Ive been looking at the Link G4 ECU and the Haltech Platinum plugin for my R33. The only needs I really have of the ECU are the ability to be able to run an ethanol content sensor, MAP over MAF, some sort of knock warning or knock protection feature. Does anyone know any Sydney based tuners who will take my power fc and swap it for another ECU + tune with cash adjustment? I don't want this to be another money pit. I am doing this just for power, but also to try keep my motor running cool and healthy. Ive been reading other threads but they get cluttered with alot of information. If this one stays clean, it should get to the point quickly! Cheers.

Sounds too far fine to even bother comp testing if you are getting oil ontop of the piston... Its kind of hard to say. I do know you can get drop in forged pistons which fit the standard bore but do you know if your bores are good? Is the crack still fine? Lots of things to check. If you were upgrading a healthy motor it would be fine, buy if you got a heap of detonation, you need to sus it out. Even head valves, are they still good? Hyper gear on here has replacement pistons, I think cp make direct replacements.

I am in for this. Was in the last one and it was awesome. Ill be probably coming alone this time so I can push a little harder through the bends.