SargeRX8

My brakes have been getting even worse since trying to bed them in. ive given up. I'm getting a set of Remsa brake pads. If that doesnt work, fire to the car.

the excuse of "it's the only car I got access to/own" actually is not valid. Check the rta application form.

It's a dampener, leave it there. There is another one in the fuel tank.

I'm not sure which sound you are talking about. One I can hear is noisy belts. Another sound I think I can hear is where you open the throttle VERY QUICKLY and you get a CHOOF sound upon opening it. If you hold the throttle open does the sound keep going? Really doubt its your turbo.

I don't know how much you can trust another second hand turbo. In all honestly most cars will have in excess of 150000km, hell even 200000km on them, so you will be buying a turbo just as old as the one you had let go...

98% of idiot drivers I see on the roads don't even own import cars, or cars an enthusiast drives. More often than not, these idiot drivers are either in a civic, integra, ford xr, toyota camry or a commodore. Its just easier to make money from someone who just spent all their money on their car.

Simple question. Have you ever "hooned" in your skyline? I use the word loosely here. I'm not saying done a 5 minute burnout, street raced, drifting etc. I'm asking even the bare f**king minimum, mashed the throttle just to hear the sound, spun the wheels just for shits and giggles, given it a push against another car. ANYTHING. Only tick no if you have NEVER, EVER done anything. If you answer yes, you need not say anything more. If you answer no, you can state your reason.

Bullshit. People have been getting defected simply because its an EASY WAY TO MAKE MONEY. It has NOTHING to do with the hoons, the hoons story is just the icing on the cake for them to put it on top to make a shit idea look good. The public probably doesn't give a shit if people are getting defected for exhausts, window tint, etc. But show them these people racing in a tunnel then have the government claim that that is why they are doing it and BINGO. Something the public will jump on side with. You want me to honestly believe you have driven through any tunnel in a skyline and NEVER EVER given it some stick to hear the sounds in a tunnel. If you can HONESTLY answer that you haven't, have a pat on the back and sell your skyline. How can you be a skyline driver and be so f**king boring? I really doubt there is many, if any, here who have not genuinely given there car some stick to either A) hear it, B) feel it, C) show it.

Have you seen a dyno graph for a 3071? That dyno graph up there is disgusting. Sags and flops and makes power at what about 5krpm then falls off all the way to red line. I bet that housing on the turbo will glow red after a couple runs. If I had to do it all over again, knowing what I know now, I would still go hypergear over this turbo. Keep it for a Civic, a skyline deserves more.

It is beyond a joke. If our cars are unsafe, defect them. Don't just defect for the f**king sake of it. In that video I saw nothing wrong with any of the cars EXCEPT for that Golf with the measuring tape holding the door shut. Those old Ford GT's are a rare, restoration job. These guys don't appreciate anything. Anal dogs. I really don't think it will make much of a difference if a Ford GT rammed into a pedestrian with the air vent on it. If you got hit by one of those, its going to feel like a tank regardless. Does anyone know the flow difference between a 3.5" Nismo exhaust and a 3.5" HKS exhaust?

The main reason the price is so large is due to the time it takes to measure, cut and weld things together. What if you've already got an exhaust and want to get it modified to shut it up but maintain its flowing capabilities. Do you run in line mufflers and hot dogs/resonators or just a muffler at the end? Any photos of the exhaust or brand names of the mufflers used?

I'm trying to understand how its done. I really, REALLY doubt you can get an exhaust which is under 90db and does not pose a restriction. As fatz said, the stock exhaust(even on the R33 GTST) is over by a couple db. Did anyone notice that video though, the guy said it has to be 96db... Whats the go with that? Was he wrong?(sounded like someone backed up his statement in the background), or does that comply with that type of car? I fail to see how you can stuff shit inside an exhaust to shut it up then have it free flowing. The exact moment you fit ANYTHING between the turbo and the exhaust tip, it acts as a restriction. I was looking at those vortex/tornado hot dogs/resonators/muffler things. Its basically a tube length with a spiral in it. Sure it will muffle the sound by bouncing it around but it seems much more free flowing that the standard type mufflers, but not enough to be free flowing... Ive seen engineered cars with exhausts loud as f**k. That is what I do not understand.

It sounds too good. He bought an eBay turbo, with a tune for a completely different turbo, bolted up perfectly and ran it, WITHOUT TUNING IT, and made 260rwkw. That is more power than I am making at the moment with a bigger turbo, more boost and a full tune.

The thing I can't understand is how cars with loud exhaust get their exhaust engineered. My old car apparently was engineered and had a thing attached to the door which covered all the mods. I am using the same exhaust on my current car(HKS Hipower Silent). It is definitely not loud but I really doubt it complies. Is it actually possible to have a compliant exhaust which won't restrict the turbo and make everything glow a vibrant red and detonate? Or is there some other way to get it done? Ive got a Nismo exhaust, same size as my HKS in diameter but it has two mufflers, you could hear everything over that exhaust.

What does it take to get an Engineering certificate? My car as it stands has really only bolt on mods. Ride height is standard. I got 17" black wheels. No body kit. The usual mods, fmic, injectors, turbo, exhaust, ecu, plumbed back bov with a high flow cat. Is the engineer cert to test if your mods are compliant with aus standards or just to make sure its safe to an extent? Do they check for polution and base the certificate on that? This is an absolute joke. They now label EVERYONE with an exhaust a hoon. If you do get an engineer certificate, give respect to the cop and only speak and answer when necessary, are you 100% safe? I was told my HWP that even if you drove a Yaris they could defect you and that a "engineer certificate is not worth the paper its written on" and Ive read a few forums about people still getting a defect with the cert.

I'm reading that you have to manually adjust the TPS(turning it) to adjust the voltage, which you read on the PFC commander. I was also reading, specific to Nistune(but I'm sure PFC is the same), that when you look at the sensor page on the hand controller, the TPS circle should be solid until the lightest of lightest throttle touches which will bring it out of idle. If it need more than the lightest of lightest of touches then you adjust the TPS to the right voltage until you have it switch off idle as soon as you touch the throttle.

I think my cold start valve might be f**ked but hell there is no way I am taking off the plenum to fix it. You've got a power FC JAP MUSCLE. I think that maybe your car has learnt to work with a faulty cold start valve. If you are able to, you should backup your tune then reset your ECU and let it self learn the idle again. My car would go insane with the AC on, works perfectly now. I remember when I got it back from its first tune, it was idling at 1800rpm with the AC on.

Its interesting to see you still made jack all power on standard boost. You should see about 140 - 160rwkw with standard boost and those mods, yet you are getting about 120rwkw... There really is no "fuel cut" in the standard ECU until you hit the limiter. What the ECU does is richen up the mix(VERY rich) to compensate for the excessive amount of air going into the engine. It also yanks out timing(as described above, with rich and retard). Your next step is a tuneable ECU. Stay the f**k away from any of those fuel cut devices and the shit to fool the ECU into reading lower air. Do it once, do it properly. You've got good foundation there for a nice 180+rwkw. On the other hand, I wouldn't push that stock turbo too far. This is what I would do in your case: Get an ECU and when making this choice, think of tomorrow, not today. Don't worry about your wallet or nothing will happen. What I mean by my last remark is if you KNOW that later on you might want to run E85, or some sort of ethanol fuel, or maybe you want to go with a highmount turbo or what not, you might want to get something like a Link G4, adaptronic, haltech etc. If you decide all you want is raw power, none of this fancy MAP sensor or ethanol stuff, you can get your self either a Nistune ECU, or what I suggest, a Power FC with Z32 AFM. The Power FC will give you the full benefits of a fully tuneable ECU(its still one of the best) but its just lacking the newer features. People like the Nistune because it "looks" like a stock ECU. I think that is unnecessary in modded, even slightly modded car. You also might have to dick around to get your VCT to work. The power FC cost about 1k, maybe even less(depending on current demand and availability). Splash on about $400 - $600 for a tune and for that under $2k you have your self a car which more than likely will be running how you want it to. That is the first step. The second step is to look at your car where its at. You've got alot of supporting mods. The next thing I would do is bigger injectors and a high flowed turbo. If you go with Nismo injectors, they are a direct drop into your fuel rail. A high flow will come out and fit right back in with no mods. With that you should be at the 240 - 260rwkw mark which I would say is where you would be loving the car to bits. After that, you are going to need to look at suspension. That car has average mileage on it for these cars, if you are still on stock springs and shocks, its going to be sloppy and when you get some serious rear power, you will be squatting and bouncing all over the road. The other thing which EVERYONE overlooks is clutch. If you have the standard clutch(or oem replacement) you will toast it anything above 180rwkw. They won't hold much. For about 4k you will have 260rwkw. 1k for the ecu, 200 for z32, 1000 for tune, 800 for highflow, 400 clutch, 600 on some second hand coilovers. If you raise your budget to about 5k you can get your self some new brake rotors and pads and have money left over. None of this is cheap, but it is fun.

The grey nismo pintle, sexy injectors.

I know 12.2 isn't lean but all the tuners who have ever done any work on my car like to tune into 11's, some even into high 10's when you are on full song. If you for an aftermarket boost gauge, get your camera phone to record a video of the gauge while you ramp up full boost in 3rd gear/4th gear to red line. You are going to need some empty road coz you will go fast. After than watch the video and see what your boost is doing. If you see it flopping up and down from 14psi, then you have a problem you need to fix. If you manage to hold 14psi all the way to redline(that turbo is VERY capable), then the boost control is not your issue.

Sensor to watch intake temps? Where do you buy these and would they be just another independent gauge? How quickly do they respond?

Your afrs might be considered a little lean to the tuning standards of many in Australia. You want to be in 11's to help cool the intake charge. As to your dyno graph, you don't specify if you are using a boost controller and by your comment, I assume you aren't. How does your boost curve look? I really, really doubt you are holding a steady boost line. What I can suggest is get your self a good ebc, set it to about 15psi, and give it some gain to help prevent boost falloff. I can't see your tune so I can't vouch for it (timing could be sloppy, afr looks steady though), but I do suggest you get an ebc then had to erd, I think they are up that way. Also, the power FC is not your problem. Plain and simple, even though it lacks newer features(MAP sensor, flex fuel, 3d mapping(these aren't essential)), it still is a tried, tested and proven performer. It is not the issue. The issue is power is dropping and coming back on then dropping etc. My old skyline did the EXACT same thing. I had an EBC with a 2835 or something highflow. My EBC was not setup right and it hit the limiter, bled off air to drop boost, then ramped up again and repeated over and over. My boost settings were set lower than my actuator settings. This was corrected by adjusting the boost controller properly. As much as Tao swears by those actuators, I will not trust them alone to do their work. Sure it will hit 14psi, but how long will it hold it? You should see my old dyno graph with his actuator on my SS2 turbo. Its a 10psi actuator yet it took all the way until redline to actually build up 10psi. Got a new actuator and boost controller and my 14psi low boost is almost flat line to red and high boost 20psi is just as good.

Your compression is low man, that is a tired motor. did you do the test warm? That rich cylinder could be three things. Unlikely, but maybe all other five are not flowing. Maybe that one injector is worn out. But what I think is the injector o rings may be work and it's leaking fuel into that cylinder which may well and truly explain your start too issues, the cylinder might be flooding with fuel when your motor is off. You aren't misfiring when you turn your wheel, or on idle. That pop you hear is a lean pop and is very normal if you are running close to stoich fuel mixes.

Yep. That is basically running off the actuator but giving abit of gain to stop boost fall. I run a ss2 turbo.

Looks like it needs to be custom fitted into your dash, or maybe under the headunit in the dash? Normally these intercept the ignition wire with the rocket arming switch and the button intercepts between +ve and the starter. Flick the switch to give ignition and hold the button to start the motor. You will still need the key in your key barrel to unlock the steering wheel, unless its a track only car, remove your steering wheel lock. Nice little unit.