SargeRX8

Ive read, not once, but many times that the copper plugs can give a stronger spark than the iridums. Iridums are just designed to last >99000km, which won't happen on a modified engine.

I've got about an inch space, I run the ss2 and a jjr dump...

I replace them every second oil change or when they die, which ever comes first. I get the odd miss with my car now, 1.1 on anything above standard turbo and boost just won't work. Don't get iridium plugs, coppers are tried and tested to be better performers.

I really doubt you heard the knock. While flogging it, with windows down or up, turbo spooling, exhaust screaming and the road noise its f**king hard to hear knock. The only way I know I knock is with my power fc. If you can hear something happen out the exhaust, its probably not knock. I don't think detonation would cause any alteration to exhaust noise, because if it did then it would be listed as a known method for picking up knock.

I believe this would be true. I did it and when I did I saw some more oil come out(not much) but when looking through the top where the shifter sits, I could still see the remains of dead smurfs.

If anyone has those little O ring things that sit between the injector rail and the plenum, let me know. I need two of them, Ive got one but let me know. Or let me know where I can get them from! Cheers.

Or sell the apexi boost controller and get your self a power fc hand controller and a nice boost gauge.

It doesn't call drain, but I prefer oil in my gearbox rather than some solvent.

The front and rear housings can be rotated as you suggested. That turbo is rubbish.

99 is the highest number it reads in negative pressure, vacuum. Then it bounces back to idle. My other boost gauge shows -20 vacuum when on idle. For me I ignore these figures. I listen to the engine and I can hear if it's idling right and feel it through that chassis. Feels good as is.

What about things like the ecu and turbo? Good to hear they are a little more lenient on the mods.

Spacers are a defect, those wheels are also a defect. You shouldn't post asking if something is a defect. If you question it, then it most likely is. What offset are your back wheels? I've got 255 on my ass with 5mm spacers to clear my breaks. With 45 tyres, any more I'll be scrubbing the guard.

I have no idea. It reads positive boost, for example, as 100 which is 10.0psi. 155 would be 15.5psi. It reads vacuum as -95 on idle, -50 maybe on cruising, so I have nfi.

My cold starts idle at around 10 on my wideband. I kind of actually can't stand the lean popping but I always thought it was something which shouldn't be happening. My car is sucking alot of air, -95 according to my profec b. My old car sat on around 85. When this one idles at 85, I know I popped off a vac line somewhere. Ill take away some fuel and see what she does.

I thought I posted something a couple posts above regarding the electric turbo but looks like it didn't get through. Keen to see what happened with it or if the idea fell through. Is the lean popping with such a lean idle a bad thing or does it not really have any negative effects on the car? If there is no real risk of damaging anything, I will lean out the idle. Shits me seeing it on 13's, sometimes even in 12's

Get one of these if you really want to have a look at the top of the piston and the walls in the cylinder. http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/SCA-Inspection-Camera-3-5-LCD-Screen.aspx?pid=221633#Description

I got quoted 195 per corner up front for 235 45 17 and 295 per corner on the rear for 255 40 17. 1g. I got a quote from tirerack and they were 440 for the tires, just waiting their reply for freight.

I had 76 with a .63 housing. I was told it would be more suited for street driving but severely bottle necked up to from the output of an Rb25. the .82 rear is the perfect balance for power and performance.

Same lol, I got the SS2, between gears I can slide out(esp 1 to 2). Third will chirp and hold. When I need to break traction though, I can

I keep trying different things every time I start the car up. Holding the clutch down SOMETIMES makes a difference. Today I went to pull fuel out but had no idea how to do that(under the correction table for water temp? Which column on the HC?). In the morning it was sitting on 29C water temp, the car fired up first time. I'll try the quick start tonight although it might not work because my piece of shit alarm takes about a second or two to let my ignition come on after the key is turned, piece of rubbish. Its not enough time for me to check my wideband to see any output so its no help. My car done this when it was stock as as it could be, bar the exhaust and cooler. It does it now with everything I got on it(turbo, injectors, ecu, fuel pump, afm etc). Spark plugs don't do shit. I got brand new oem coils with brand new plugs, no change. Done it with my old plugs, done it with my yellow jackets, with my old coils. It must be an air to fuel thing. Maybe Ill get someone to start the car for me while I sit near the exhaust and see if there is a rush of unburnt fuel smell.

Oil can dark a few hundred kms after changing even on a healthy motor. You are right to say though that if a ring was fine, the piston won't be sealing and carbon and other combustion shit could make it's way into the oil.

How so? Everything is technically correct. If you are lucky enough to find someone selling a full kit or find a brand new kit, congrats. When I was looking, I found the turbo by it self, hence needing a whole bunch of parts added to it. You pay for the kit for all those parts. There is nothing I said which could draw you to say I have nfi(even though I had nfi that they came in a full kit but that doesn't count lol). I am in no way dissing the HKS turbo and no where did I say that people are bsing their dyno's. i believe you. I had a cropped up turbo in the stock housing(yes high flowed) and it was freaking awesome and I can only imagine the full hks kit would have been even better. When I was looking to buy a turbo, this turbo was an option but it was near impossible to find a complete kit. and in all honesty it cost a fair penny more to get up and running then what I have currently spent on my setup. It was more frequent to find the turbo for sale by it self, I never knew it came in a kit until now lol. If Garrett made a complete bolt on kit for skylines, people would be on it. HG can go and build a full kit, he can get his dump measured and manufactured for X turbo no Y car to ensure it fits one time, every time. Or he can sell you a turbo and you make it fit.

Are those components fitted on to your car? The stock boost sensor? The O2 sensor? nfi what the others are. Maybe DTC means detect and its unable to detect those components? An easy way around is to find the resistance of said components and then get a resistor in there to fool the ECU into thinking those components are installed. Kind of like how people smash their cars and blow their air bags the fit a resistor in place to get rid of the air bag warning then sell it off as a normal car.

I done it in a couple hours. Biggest dick around was that I forgot to put a washer back in and lost most of my coolant. This statement is wrong. My old car had a 2835 of some sort fitted into the stock housing. Spooled quick as f**k and sounded tops. I was going to go a similar path but the money for a proper unit was too far. Supporting mods, you can't factor that in as both turbo's will need supporting mods. Fact: Both HKS and HG turbos need a new, custom intake. Fact: Both HKS and HG need supporting mods Fact: Both need aftermarket dump Fact: Both can run standard lines(fairly sure the HKS can). I never had any issues with the air con drain being fouled. If HG had the money, the people, the time that HKS has to work, design and build turbo's.... well. HKS has been in the market for how long. Stao has been a one man building these by him self. His work is remarkable. Also, I am RARELY on full throttle. Ask Jez, the car felt sweet when we were on the road and I didn't go near full throttle. Low boost 14psi SS2 from 2500rpm to 6krpm. Watch from 1:00

This is my dyno on the dyno dynamics of the SS2. Remember though Jez when you ran my car on your dyno we did pull out some timing and also your dyno boydy said it sometimes reads low but feels very different on the street. Ill PM you a pic of my intake pipe now. The SS2 on my first tune. This was the last read out showing no boost controller, the low then high. It doesn't show 244 in this, more like 238 but the few runs before was 244 and the tuner thought the turbo might be getting hot after that many consecutive full runs. Also attached is the final tune.